When you slam a stem...

[Lewis Moon]

Do you still want a washer on top of the HS? Headset is CK.

I got a set of looong cranks and I dropped my seat a good bit, now I need to drop my bars a bunch.

[RacerJRP]

I always keep at least a 5mm spacer above the stem, sometimes 10mm. Just in case.

[Lewis Moon]

Originally Posted by RacerJRP

I always keep at least a 5mm spacer above the stem, sometimes 10mm. Just in case.

Let me be more precise: between the stem and the HS.

[charliedid]

CK wants you to use the nylon (white) washer.

[Lewis Moon]

Originally Posted by charliedid

CK wants you to use the nylon (white) washer.

Now I just gotta find it...

Check that...Ima gonna find a 17 degree drop stem so I don't have to cut the steerer or stack ugly spacers on top.

That is all.

[PJN]

It isn't "slammed" if there is a spacer between the headset and the stem.

Duh.

[Lewis Moon]

Originally Posted by PJN

It isn't "slammed" if there is a spacer between the headset and the stem.

Duh.

Thus the term "washer".

[David Kirk]

Yes - ideally you would have the white plastic washer between the headset and stem. I think its main function is to eliminate noise that could be caused by any movement between the two pieces.

I can't see anything bad happening if you don't have that thin washer in there frankly but I think King intends for it to be there.

Dave

[Mikej]

Is lowering your saddle due to longer cranks correct? I would think the top stroke would place your knee in a more cramped position. I usually just leave mine. And yes, spacer on top is fine, I have found stem sack height to vary and sometimes you just need that 5mm.

[bobswire]

Get a shorter frame instead.

[Lewis Moon]

Originally Posted by Mikej

Is lowering your saddle due to longer cranks correct? I would think the top stroke would place your knee in a more cramped position. I usually just leave mine. And yes, spacer on top is fine, I have found stem sack height to vary and sometimes you just need that 5mm.

I'm a bit more cramped up top, but I was at my limit on shorter cranks, so leaving the saddle in the same position would cause me to a) rock in the saddle and b) over extend the biceps femorus.
We're talking 190 cranks, up from 175. I really don't notice the knees being higher, much.

[Lewis Moon]

Originally Posted by bobswire

Get a shorter frame instead.

I'm thinking I may need to. It'll probably need to be custom, because there aren't a lot of 58s out there w/a 60cm TT.

[Tony T]

Originally Posted by Lewis Moon

Now I just gotta find it...

If you can't find it....
scuff washer ($2): http://chrisking.com/parts/snapandsealkits

[carpediemracing]

Originally Posted by Lewis Moon

I'm a bit more cramped up top, but I was at my limit on shorter cranks, so leaving the saddle in the same position would cause me to a) rock in the saddle and b) over extend the biceps femorus.
We're talking 190 cranks, up from 175. I really don't notice the knees being higher, much.

I lower my saddle when I go to longer cranks (170->175mm, 29" inseam). Leg extension weirdness is what causes problems, not the "leg rise" as much. I only go 5mm difference so I drop my saddle 5mm when I go to the longer cranks. This results in a 10mm difference in knee height relative to my torso. You'll be seeing a 30mm difference.

I prefer the drop to the bars from the higher saddle position but when my leg comes up on the longer cranks my leg hits my gut.

[Lewis Moon]

Originally Posted by carpediemracing

I lower my saddle when I go to longer cranks (170->175mm, 29" inseam). Leg extension weirdness is what causes problems, not the "leg rise" as much. I only go 5mm difference so I drop my saddle 5mm when I go to the longer cranks. This results in a 10mm difference in knee height relative to my torso. You'll be seeing a 30mm difference.

I prefer the drop to the bars from the higher saddle position but when my leg comes up on the longer cranks my leg hits my gut.

I'm working on that, too.