Different size tires on front & rear

[Keith A]

I just went through another Hutchinson Fusion 3 tubeless tire on the rear and as much as I like the tubeless setup and the Fusion tires, I don't like how often I've been replacing the rear.

So I've been thinking about trying the Intensive tubeless on the rear, but it only comes in a 25mm width. It doesn't seem like there should be any issues with running different size tires on the front and rear...and I can't imagine that I would notice the difference in the sizes.

Is anyone riding with this setup? Is there any reason not to do this?

[Louis]

On my daily driver I currently have a 19 mm rim, 23 PR-3 tire on the front, and a 23 mm rim, 25 PR-3 tire on the back.

The obvious contrast in size when you look at them is the single biggest thing I've noticed. The back looks big and the front looks normal. (to me)

[Ahneida Ride]

I run 23 up front and 25 in the rear.

Love this combination.

[MattTuck]

currently running 28 on the rear, 23 on the front (until the 23 is done, then moving the current 28 that is on the rear to the front, and putting a new 28 on the back).

Seems good to me!

[buldogge]

I have 25F/28R Schwalbe Ultremo ZXs on my '85 Spectrum because of clearance issues...rides nice.

-Mark in St. Louis

[firerescuefin]

Originally Posted by Ahneida Ride

I run 23 up front and 25 in the rear.

Love this combination.

^

[Nelson99]

Until I get a pair of wide rim wheels that might properly support a 25 up front for cornering, I ride 23F / 28R for my standard road bike clincher setup.

However, most of my bikes are now on tubies.

[AngryScientist]

continental actually markets a set of tires called the "force and attack" - a combination of 22 in front and 24 in back.

there is definitely no real reason not to do this.

[Keith A]

Thanks for all the input. Sounds like I need to buy some Hutch Intensives

[fatallightning]

Originally Posted by MattTuck

currently running 28 on the rear, 23 on the front (until the 23 is done, then moving the current 28 that is on the rear to the front, and putting a new 28 on the back).

Seems good to me!

You shouldn't rotate rears to the front. The squared off profiles make the bike turn in curiously. I always put the new tire on the front, and rotate that front to the back. When it's squared, it gets trashed.

[Louis]

I don't bother to rotate - just leave them on until they show threads. Sometimes I'll buy three of a kind and use two in back for one in front. However, I have no problems running mismatched tires (or wheels).

[Keith A]

Originally Posted by fatallightning

You shouldn't rotate rears to the front. The squared off profiles make the bike turn in curiously. I always put the new tire on the front, and rotate that front to the back. When it's squared, it gets trashed.

This is exactly what I do.

[Chance]

Originally Posted by fatallightning

You shouldn't rotate rears to the front. The squared off profiles make the bike turn in curiously. I always put the new tire on the front, and rotate that front to the back. When it's squared, it gets trashed.

How does a squared off edge perform differently in front versus rear? Would expect it to affect steering at both ends to some degree. When the bike leans that edge contacts the pavement similarly, so not sure why rear would be more OK versus front.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by fatallightning

You shouldn't rotate rears to the front. The squared off profiles make the bike turn in curiously. I always put the new tire on the front, and rotate that front to the back. When it's squared, it gets trashed.

Not because of that but put the best tire on the front, wear wise. Flatting a front can lead to crashing, rear not so often, so get one new tire, put on front, put front onto rear.