#1
|
|||
|
|||
Wheelbuilding tips?
Just looking over the A23 thread, and wondering at a comment.
If there is a difference between two wheels with identical components, what is it, on a mechanical level? How different can two properly tensioned, laterally and radially true wheels be? And generally, as I go to lace a set for the first time in two years, any tips/reminders? (Besides go seek out the grizzled pros at an LBS?) |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
But to answer your question, if two wheels are made with the identical components and identical (proper) tensioning, they should have the same stiffness* *That's not say that they will be identical in every other way. For example, if one wheel had the spoke lines corrected during building and were properly stress-relieved, and a second did not have these procedures, then the first wheel would be less prone to spoke breakages. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Things to remember:
Spoke prep of some sort. A tension meter (sort of obvious). "Flatten" bowed leading spokes at the hub flange prior to tensioning (see: initial spoke adjustment section) Stress relieve spokes after tensioning.
__________________
www.the-paceline.com |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Here's a cool wheel building blog I like: http://wheelfanatyk.blogspot.com/ |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Just relax and take your time with the build. Not very helpful, sorry. I'm a fan of spok prep but oil is fine too. Make sure the spoke heads are set nicely against the flange. Depending on your hub you can drill the holes for snug fit.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
|
|