trp disc users chime in

[vqdriver]

i've been messing with hy/rds and after i finally got the lever pull reasonably good, i went out for a short test spin and the front started shuddering horribly. the brakes had already been bedded in the way i always do. the rear brake was fine. after tightening pretty much everything in the front half of the bike with no luck, i tried some new pads which seem to have fixed it. rotors are rt99 icetech btw.

for the trp disc users, are you having any issues with the stock pads (i believe trp uses the same pads for the hy/rd, hylex, and spyre brakes)? have you tried any others in there? shimano, swisstop??

[mtb_frk]

No problems with either of my sets of hy/rd brakes. Perhaps cleaning the rotor would have helped also.

[vqdriver]

yes, cleaned off with alcohol

[old fat man]

I wouldn't say I'm having problems with the spyres, but I'm not overly impressed with them on my cx bike. I have a sram brake lever only on the left and a 5800 lever on the right. I find them to be plenty strong, but not light action and not the smoothest. I will buy better quality pads when the time comes to replace them. I think they are interchangeable with current generation Shimano pads.

[AJosiahK]

Haven't had good experiences with the spyers unfortunately. Installed on say a dozen different rigs and half have had to come back for service. Buy new pads, the stock ones are cheaper than the actual replacement ones. Also angle of approach in terms of cable/housing routing. At least in the bikes I've seen being mostly disc road cx and gravel types, they come in at an odd angle and many have had water in the lines because of that. During the cold months that became more problematic as you can imagine.

Otherwise easy to set up/install.

I like the hy:rd versions more so. They work (feel) best with Shimano levers at least in my experience. Good enough with SRAM, (never tried campy.)

[gone]

Using hy/rd with Shimano. Shudder as you describe with stock pads, tried cleaning numerous times and no joy. Changing pads did the trick, now very impressed with both the force and modulation.

[bcgav]

HYRDs with stock rotors, stock organic pads with Shimano Ultegra 6800 levers and Yokozuna Reaction compressionless cables. Very pleased with the pull and lever feel. Recently noticed slight front shudder, just ordered a set of SwissStop sintered metallic pads.

[krhea]

HyRD on the rear with Campy lever and no probs using Yoko compressionless cables.

[jtakeda]

I have the spyres with stock pads.

I think they work awesome with no shutter at all.

Full disclosure though- I didnt set the brakes up. The pro mechanic I bought the bike from set it up and I havent touched the brakes since.

PS: Campy lever- compression less housing.

[tigoat]

Yeah, I am rocking a set of Hylex wet discs and having a similar problem, which baffling, as it does not do this all the time. I suspect that the problem might have to do with a weak spring. Having got around switching pads yet, as I am still monitoring the problem and find the root cause of it.

FYI, I have had a dozen of Spyres since day one and have never seen this problem before.

[vqdriver]

Using hy/rd with Shimano. Shudder as you describe with stock pads, tried cleaning numerous times and no joy. Changing pads did the trick, now very impressed with both the force and modulation.

Which pads are you using?

[firerescuefin]

Are you sure you're setting them up correctly. A lot of folks use the micro adjusters after final set up for adjusting, which is actually incorrect. I set them up incorrectly the first time I put them on and had a similar experience to the one you noted. This TRP video below walks you through it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8T6cON6y_Y

[saab2000]

I have the spyres with stock pads.

I think they work awesome with no shutter at all.

Full disclosure though- I didnt set the brakes up. The pro mechanic I bought the bike from set it up and I havent touched the brakes since.

PS: Campy lever- compression less housing.

I'm rolling Spyres on my Indy Fab and I've had no shudder issues either but the steel fork is extremely stiff, so this might help with that.

They are 100% stock, including rotors and pads from TRP. and are the ones I received after the recall of the originals. They sent along some compressionless housing and that made a huge difference over using standard brake housing. No more energy from your hand squeeze is lost through the cable housing. They are much more crisp and have much better braking feel.

I use Shimano 9000 levers with these.

The one caveat I'll state is that I've only got one really hard gravel ride on this bike (when this picture was taken) so I don't have a statistically large or relevant sample to make comments about the brakes. But what I experienced was good. No complaints, but no other disc experience either so I don't really know what I'm talking about. But for the gravel ride I did I felt these were superior to the Campagnolo Record caliper brakes I had used in the past on the same course. These seemed to have better power and better modulation, though some of that sensation might have been that I was using far more appropriate tires too. I had previously done the ride on 25mm tubulars and then on Ruffy Tuffys and then on Michelin Jets, which grip much better than either of the first two mentioned and probably make the brakes feel better by gripping better when the brakes are applied.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5534/14287609423_570578ed46_o.jpg

[gone]

Which pads are you using?
SwissStop.

[vqdriver]

Are you sure you're setting them up correctly. A lot of folks use the micro adjusters after final set up for adjusting, which is actually incorrect. I set them up incorrectly the first time I put them on and had a similar experience to the one you noted. This TRP video below walks you through it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8T6cON6y_Y

yes, that's what i used to install the brakes at the beginning. not sure which microadjuster you're referring to.

i'll give these pads a go when i can get some real miles on the bike. busted wrist means it's still very painful to ride for now. just a few miles at a time on paved roads. if the shudder persists, i'm gonna try out those swisstop organics or shimanos.