anti seize on ti--how much & what kind?

[54ny77]

how much anti seize does one put on ti threads, seat tube/post, etc. is the right amount just a little dab'll do ya?

am talkin' about ti on ti (sounds sexy don't it?) in some places, alu on ti in others.

i've got both silver and copper goop--presume either is fine?

thanks.

[Black Dog]

Make sure the anti-seize compound you are using is good for Ti. Not all are. You can never use too much but you can use too little. Make sure the threads are well covered. You can wipe off any squeeze out after you have tightened things down. As for a seat post coat the inside of the seat tube and rub a thin layer on the post and you will be fine. Pull the post out at least once a year and re-coat as needed.

Cheers...Daryl

[AgilisMerlin]

just the basics

i use on seatpost, rear dropout, h20 bottle bolts, bb threads. liberal ammount, every year or two reapply. i don't do a ton of downpour type riding, so whenever i think the bunk is drying out. And if bb is creaking, the usual overhaul on thread lube.

a number of products will work. ti creaks. or clicks. occasionally.

my frame has eaten quite a few sealed bottom bracket cups. I am ok with it. Likes pitting durace posts.

[AngryScientist]

this stuff, get it at the auto parts store. bike specific stuff is all marketing. more is better, coat the threads fully, wipe off the excess.

[AgilisMerlin]

i am a sucker for the bike specific stuff. plus, i like the feeling of holding a faux syringe in my hand

been pushing that tube since 2002

[wallymann]

Originally Posted by Black Dog

Make sure the anti-seize compound you are using is good for Ti. Not all are.

Is this for real? I have my doubts, would appreciate supporting info.

[54ny77]

i have loctite copper and permatex silver.

[Dekonick]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

this stuff, get it at the auto parts store. bike specific stuff is all marketing. more is better, coat the threads fully, wipe off the excess.

Yup - that is what I use.

Here is a bunch of othe types used in industry - but you want copper based for Ti. The stuff Angry posted will also work just fine. Cheap - buy one bottle and it will last a lifetime.

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/antiseize.htm

[54ny77]

permatex high temp silver i have for my truck (spark plugs).

if you get that crap on you on clothes or skin or a blob lands somewhere on tools, etc., it becomes the gift that keeps on giving.

thank all for the tips & pm's.

[Kontact]

I would enjoy hearing from anyone that had ti galling issues from using the "wrong" anti-seize.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by 54ny77

how much anti seize does one put on ti threads, seat tube/post, etc. is the right amount just a little dab'll do ya?

am talkin' about ti on ti (sounds sexy don't it?) in some places, alu on ti in others.

i've got both silver and copper goop--presume either is fine?

thanks.

Permatex is what I use and just like grease, a 'moderate' amount will do fine.

Either is fine.

[Bob Loblaw]

A little goes a long way. I use copper based which is intended for al, stainless, and Ti.

Still a good idea to clean and reapply every couple of seasons or so.

BL

[11.4]

Antiseize is simply an inert grease with flakes or fine powder of a metal in it. You can get a wide variety of antiseizes, the most common of which are copper, aluminum, and nickel. They work to prevent electronegative corrosion between two dissimilar metals. Thus an antiseize will have no particular effect on two titanium pieces screwed into each other, other than what the grease itself does. And for it to work, the metal in the antiseize has to react with the more reactive of the two metals that are being mated, and do so preferentially to any reaction with the less reactive metal, so that the less reactive metal doesn't get corroded.

Corrosion involving titanium or steel in most cases is best addressed by copper-based antiseizes. Both aluminum or copper will work, since you typically aren't screwing together two metals such as aluminum and copper (a tiny strand of copper wire from a piece of stranded electrical wire will eat a hole right through the hull of an aluminum yacht, just to give you a sense of how powerful corrosion can really be). The cost differences are insignificant and the lubricants used in copper antiseize seem to last longer than those used in aluminum antiseize, and that's about the most valuable reason for using the copper version. Also, the copper version is very visible so you know exactly where it is and it tends to fill threads a little better than the aluminum version in my experience. Conversely, the copper version makes tightening a bolt harder so torque values become a bit less accurate -- again simply a matter of the grease in the antiseize.

Galling is a completely different phenomenon. That is the tendency of metals like titanium to become fluid-like and reshape themselves, and even fuse themselves unexpectedly (or expectedly, if you're a good physicist or engineer). Galling is always a threat in titanium products, and the solution(s) are to use a good grease (not necessarily antiseize) and to watch torque values.

There's also simple corrosion with the air (and water, perspiration, etc.), as in what happens to steel frames. This typically doesn't happen in a manner that can be addressed by antiseize, but is generally prevented by the grease in antiseize just fine. It's just the basic issue of keeping bare steel surfaces greased.

The nickel antiseize, by the way, is mostly designed for high-temperature applications such as aircraft turbines. No need to get it for cycling applications (except for flying bikes to and fro on planes with high-temperature jet turbines, of course).

[Dekonick]

Originally Posted by 11.4

Antiseize is simply an inert grease with flakes or fine powder of a metal in it. You can get a wide variety of antiseizes, the most common of which are copper, aluminum, and nickel. They work to prevent electronegative corrosion between two dissimilar metals. Thus an antiseize will have no particular effect on two titanium pieces screwed into each other, other than what the grease itself does. And for it to work, the metal in the antiseize has to react with the more reactive of the two metals that are being mated, and do so preferentially to any reaction with the less reactive metal, so that the less reactive metal doesn't get corroded.

Corrosion involving titanium or steel in most cases is best addressed by copper-based antiseizes. Both aluminum or copper will work, since you typically aren't screwing together two metals such as aluminum and copper (a tiny strand of copper wire from a piece of stranded electrical wire will eat a hole right through the hull of an aluminum yacht, just to give you a sense of how powerful corrosion can really be). The cost differences are insignificant and the lubricants used in copper antiseize seem to last longer than those used in aluminum antiseize, and that's about the most valuable reason for using the copper version. Also, the copper version is very visible so you know exactly where it is and it tends to fill threads a little better than the aluminum version in my experience. Conversely, the copper version makes tightening a bolt harder so torque values become a bit less accurate -- again simply a matter of the grease in the antiseize.

Galling is a completely different phenomenon. That is the tendency of metals like titanium to become fluid-like and reshape themselves, and even fuse themselves unexpectedly (or expectedly, if you're a good physicist or engineer). Galling is always a threat in titanium products, and the solution(s) are to use a good grease (not necessarily antiseize) and to watch torque values.

There's also simple corrosion with the air (and water, perspiration, etc.), as in what happens to steel frames. This typically doesn't happen in a manner that can be addressed by antiseize, but is generally prevented by the grease in antiseize just fine. It's just the basic issue of keeping bare steel surfaces greased.

The nickel antiseize, by the way, is mostly designed for high-temperature applications such as aircraft turbines. No need to get it for cycling applications (except for flying bikes to and fro on planes with high-temperature jet turbines, of course).

A more technical explanation - but yup... copper for ti. The prematex silver has Cu and Ni... so it 'is' copper based as well... but designed more for high temp applications (engines)

[Kontact]

It's funny how QBP doesn't even carry a copper based Ti-prep product anymore.

Servicing Ti frames is about the only place anti-seize is commonly used in shops anymore.