#1
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Stuck Campy AC-H bottom bracket
I want to replace my Campy AC-H bottom bracket, because I noticed some play in it, but I cannot get the old one out. It's in a steel frame, and has been there since I bought the bike 7 years ago. I have the Park BBT-4 tool, but it seems useless due to slipping off the cup. So I am going to buy a Tacx tool that screws on. Is there a better way to use the BBT-4? Any other tricks to getting it out? I have put Liquid Wrench on it, too. Also, a few years ago the drive side cup was loose, so I put some blue thread locker on it, and it never loosened again. Was that a mistake?
Thanks. Bill |
#2
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I've never used Locktite to set the cups on a bb. I was always afraid of having the very issue that you describe.
I've had a similar, though not exactly the same, situation with a barrel adjuster on two different rear brake calipers. I had sweated so much, that the adjuster was frozen in the caliper arm and would not screw in or out. I tried several different liquid penetrating lubricants with no success. Finally, I put one in the freezer overnight and then applied heat from a soldering iron to the exposed tip of the adjuster. The contraction and rapid expansion of the metal allowed the lubricant to finally work and I was able to gradually work the adjuster free. You might try some variation of this method. Maybe lay the frame out in the sun and allow it to heat up thoroughly. Then apply somthing very cold, possibly in the form of a frozen ice pack to the inner part of the BB and its lockring. The good thing about this method is that there's no torquing involved and it lets the parts move in very small increments -- just to get them 'broken loose'. For BBs that work loose in the future, you might try teflon tape on the threaded part of the lockring. The tape takes up any extra space, but does not 'freeze' the lockring to the frame. I had to use the tape method on my old C'dale beater. The BB came loose on two occasions. Evidently, the BB is not perfectly round or it may not be properly faced, and therefore allowed the BB to not stay put. I've _NEVER_ had this problem on either of my Serottas and I've never used Locktite or teflon tape on them. The tolerances on a Serotta when it leaves the factory are very good. MIke in AR
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2013 Serotta Fondo Ti w/Enve fork |
#3
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I think it's still a mystery as to what is causing the stuck. I agree with going with the Tacx tool.
The antidote for Loctite is heat. With the steel frame you want to be careful of the paint. A heat gun carefully applied will release the Loctite, if thats what's holding it rather than corrosion. The heat would help if it's corrosion too. |
#4
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The tacx tool works. Makes a huge difference.
In future install BB's with antisieze and teflon tape. |
#5
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With the AC-H BB, I have heard of people using a quick release skewer to help keep the tool from slipping, similar to what one would do with a recalcitrant cassette lockring.
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#6
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use a breaker bar to get good leverage, assuming the tool is locked on. If that doesn't work, try a longer breaker bar. If that doesn't work, try torching the bb cup with a torch. If that doesn't work, by a new frame.
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"I used to be with it. Then they changed what it was. Now, what I'm with isn't it, and whats it is weird and scary." -Abe Simpson |
#7
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Bill,
Is your BBT-4 the old style or the new style? The new one has welded "fingers" that make it easier to keep the tool in place. The old style can be pushed inboard until it slips off inboard of the BB scalloped area, and was a PITA to use. The fingers prevent the new style from doing this. If you have the old style you may want to try a new one. If you are already using the new style, then good luck... A stupid question: Are you 100% sure that you are turning the BB in the correct direction? Louis |
#8
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I have the old style BBT-4, it's good to know that Park realized it was a poor design. Thanks for that bit of info. Yup, I'm turning the right way. My plan is to get the Tacx tool and use a long breaker bar.
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#9
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Clamp the bb tool in a large vise, hold the frame in position on the tool with a large c-clamp and turn the frame.
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#10
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Quote:
work smarter, not harder! |
#11
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I'll reiterate or combine what a few others have said.
Use a QR or a piece of threaded rod through the BB to hold the tool on and then, with the tool securely in place, put the tool into a vice and spin the frame off the BB. Spin it the right way! Works every time. Dave |
#12
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Quote:
Bill |
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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put the tool in place then place large washers and use the crank bolt to hold them there. Keeps the tool from slipping. as others have said make sure your turning in the correct direction.
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#15
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I got the Tacx tool, and it worked like a champ, just needed a big wrench, no breaker bar, no vise. I would like to put in a plug for Harris Cyclery for their fast service, I ordered the tool on their website on Monday morning, it was shipped standard UPS that afternoon, and arrived at my house noon on Tuesday.
As for the Park BBT-4, it is truly a useless tool, and there is no way I can see that a quick release and washers could help. Maybe with a bottom bracket that's more like a cassette lock ring, but not with the AC-H which has a scalloped kind of shell. |
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