Know the rules The Paceline Forum Builder's Spotlight


Go Back   The Paceline Forum > General Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-31-2017, 09:24 AM
marciero marciero is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland Maine
Posts: 3,108
Wheel build advice, opinions.

I have a 32-hole SON deluxe with 50mm flange spacing that was on a dented rim. I ordered spokes to build that onto a Hed Belgium Plus rim. (That rim was built onto a WI hub, so I went against my philosophy to taking apart a perfectly good wheel...) So I ordered and received 287mm spokes. Now, noting the narrow flange spacing, and eyeing the wide-body versions of this hub I have on two other wheels, I am considering building with the wide-body, which has 68mm flange. This will give me a stronger wheel, which would be nice since this will be used on a tandem. Prowheelbuilder spoke calc. gives 286.5 and 287.5, respectively, for the non-widebody and widebody versions. Ordering new spokes is not an option as I need this wheel built in the next couple of days as are leaving for a trip.


These are 32-hole, 3X lacing, which I want to maintain.
So three considerations:
1. I know one generally rounds up so ideally would have 288 spoke for the widebody. But 287 would probably be okay, yes?
2. Taking apart another perfectly good wheel though that rim probably has 30K+ miles on it... At least the Hed was an orphan front that was not being used.
3. Wide body is stronger, but do I really need the extra strength? Both hubs also have high flange-54mm dia-which also gives stronger wheel. I've used this hub with the dented Dyad on the tandem and it has been fine. In fact, my original plan was to go with the dented wheel-I deemed the pulsing during braking "acceptable". I changed my mind the other day during a ride.

I think I am leaning toward just going with the narrow hub as planned. Thoughts?

Edit: This wheel is for unloaded front.

Last edited by marciero; 12-31-2017 at 09:33 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-31-2017, 09:42 AM
speedevil's Avatar
speedevil speedevil is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: southeast Indiana
Posts: 276
+/- 1mm on spoke length should be fine. Since the length calculation is already rounded (by most calculators) rounding up again is probably not necessary. Not knowing which calculator you used, I can't say with certainty, but a 1mm difference should not be a concern.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-31-2017, 09:43 AM
ergott's Avatar
ergott ergott is offline
ergottWheels
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Islip, NY
Posts: 6,497
You risk more potential problems if the spokes are too short than you do the narrower spacing.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
__________________
Eric
my FB page
my Ottrott
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-31-2017, 10:09 AM
Mark McM Mark McM is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,020
Quote:
Originally Posted by ergott View Post
You risk more potential problems if the spokes are too short than you do the narrower spacing.
But in this case, the spokes are only 0.5mm short. With 32 spokes and brass nipples, this should not be an issue, and shouldn't be the decider.

I wouldn't have a problem with the narrow flange spacing on a 32 spoke wheel for a single bike, but tandem wheels take roughly twice the load of a single, so I'd lean more towards the wider hub.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-31-2017, 10:19 AM
ergott's Avatar
ergott ergott is offline
ergottWheels
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Islip, NY
Posts: 6,497
Calculators tend to run short with large flanges and crossed spokes. Assuming all measurements are accurate I prefer to round up with builds like that.

0.5mm short is no worry if that's how they end up.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
__________________
Eric
my FB page
my Ottrott
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-31-2017, 10:26 AM
ergott's Avatar
ergott ergott is offline
ergottWheels
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Islip, NY
Posts: 6,497
I ran the calc using my measurements. With the wide hub I predict the spokes will end up 1mm below the top of the heads when at tension.
__________________
Eric
my FB page
my Ottrott
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-31-2017, 11:19 AM
marciero marciero is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland Maine
Posts: 3,108
Thanks all for your remarks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ergott View Post
I ran the calc using my measurements. With the wide hub I predict the spokes will end up 1mm below the top of the heads when at tension.
Thanks for running the calculation. Since the the threads dont start until 1mm or more below the head, this seems like it would be fine, with all threads engaged. Does that sound about right? Or does this mean we are now 1mm short instead of the 0.5mm short that is acceptable?

Last edited by marciero; 12-31-2017 at 11:21 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-31-2017, 11:56 AM
ergott's Avatar
ergott ergott is offline
ergottWheels
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Islip, NY
Posts: 6,497
If I'm right and they end up 1mm short that's not bad, especially with brass nipples. Any more than that is pushing it.

At this point you'll have to build it to know for sure.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
__________________
Eric
my FB page
my Ottrott
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-31-2017, 12:17 PM
marciero marciero is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland Maine
Posts: 3,108
Okay will be a judgement call. I suppose can try wide flange and re-rebuild if they come up short.

Last edited by marciero; 12-31-2017 at 12:19 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-01-2018, 07:54 AM
marciero marciero is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland Maine
Posts: 3,108
The spokes from the dented rim should be 289. So will have that as option if the 287 are unacceptably short.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-01-2018, 11:02 AM
weisan's Avatar
weisan weisan is offline
ZhugeLiang
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Back in Austin, Texas
Posts: 17,481
Marcielo pal, you better start cranking, the Golden State awaits you and your partner!
__________________
🏻*
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-01-2018, 11:09 AM
AngryScientist's Avatar
AngryScientist AngryScientist is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: northeast NJ
Posts: 33,152
14mm nipples vs 12 buy a little room for shorter spokes.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-01-2018, 11:16 AM
ergott's Avatar
ergott ergott is offline
ergottWheels
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Islip, NY
Posts: 6,497
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryScientist View Post
14mm nipples vs 12 buy a little room for shorter spokes.
That doesn't fix short spokes, just gives you wrench flats lower down (Sapim). I seriously do not recommend using the DT version that does have lower threading. They don't make the wheel any better since you will still not have threads in the head engaged. All the strength of the nipple is above the rim bed in the head.

I do not recommend the nipples below as a practice.



This image below is from wheelfanatyk and represents what I'm talking about.

__________________
Eric
my FB page
my Ottrott
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-01-2018, 11:19 AM
AngryScientist's Avatar
AngryScientist AngryScientist is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: northeast NJ
Posts: 33,152
that's interesting eric, thanks.

the only nipples i use anymore to build with are sapin securelock brass. i had not been aware about the strength profile you mention with regard to nipples though. good to know!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-01-2018, 12:54 PM
marciero marciero is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland Maine
Posts: 3,108
Quote:
Originally Posted by ergott View Post
That doesn't fix short spokes, just gives you wrench flats lower down (Sapim). I seriously do not recommend using the DT version that does have lower threading. They don't make the wheel any better since you will still not have threads in the head engaged. All the strength of the nipple is above the rim bed in the head.

I do not recommend the nipples below as a practice.
I did read a little about importance of engaging the head in some other threads-there is a LOT on "spoke length". Before I had thought it was all about engaging all the threads.

So I have the options
1. Wide body SON with 287mm spokes, which will be about 1mm too short based on Eric's estimate
2. Wide body SON with leftover 289mm spokes, which will be about 1mm too long based on Eric's estimate of the 287 being 1mm short
3. Non-wide body as originally intended with the 287 spokes I ordered. Using a spokecalc spreadsheet I had laying around on my computer the length came out to 286.6, same as prowheelbuilder spoke calc. So the 287 these should be good.


While the wheel strength of the narrower flange is a consideration, I have hundreds of miles on the this hub on the Dyad rim on the tandem without issue. I had not noticed any brake rub during the occasional sprint, even with relatively close pads of the mini-V brakes. It;s not like we are flailing the bike side-to-side. In fact, the rear hub on this bike has even narrower flange spacing, albeit with 40 spokes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by weisan View Post
Marcielo pal, you better start cranking, the Golden State awaits you and your partner!
Will decide today for sure!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:12 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.