Climbing Bike Characteristics

[Splash]

Hi there.

What are the critical characteristics of a good climbing road bike frameset?

I read that a taller head tube and relatively long wheelbase contribute to both comfortable and efficient climbing, in and out of the saddle.


Splash

[MattTuck]

splash, what do you mean by "climbing bike"?

There are bikes that are specialty built for climbing. The primary focus of such a bike is light weight. People sometimes use these for specialty hill climb races like Mt. Washington in NH. Often times, they'll get ride of the large chain ring, and might go with just a friction shifter on the downtube. Probably just one brake lever/caliper on the front wheel. Possibly, they cut off drops. Since going up hill is a slow affair, people don't care much about handling. Lightness and a energy transfer are the two things people focus on.

[Dead Man]

Stiff! And light

All else is moot, if we're talking strictly uphill only

But it gets a lot more complicated if you gon b coming back down hill, fast, on that same bike

[Splash]

yeah - thanks

I am talking for ride days :

https://www.alpineclassic.com.au/pub...320km-ultimate
https://www.bicyclenetwork.com.au/pe...eek/the-route/


uphill and downhill.

i have the oltre xr (1) setup with race gear (standard crank set and 6.7 rim wheelset).

Not wanting to change this setup and rather get another bike primarily setup for days in the saddle climbing and descents - compact crankset, even 2.1 SES wheelset and light stiff frameset.



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[happycampyer]

The Bianchi Oltre is more than capable as a "climbing" bike--it was designed for Pro Tour racers and punters alike to ride up and down mountains. Although you didn't ask for it, the simple way to make your bike a climbing bike would be to change your crankset and wheels, and maybe your cassette, but that would be on the "climbing" wheels. Figure out what gearing you would likely need--would 34-29 be adequate?--and go from there. The 6.7s are not desirable as climbing wheels due to the weight and their high profile, which will catch crosswinds on descents. Switching to 3.4s or 2.2s would make sense, since you wouldn't have to switch brake pads or make major adjustments to your brakes. If you wanted to, you could raise your handlebars slightly by moving a spacer under your stem (if you have the room on your steerer) or by flipping your stem up if it's currently down.

But you've come to the right place if you want a complicated and expensive solution to a relatively simple problem. You could go for a lighter frame, allthough frankly the Oltre is plenty light. If you want a bike that is slightly more upright and has a slightly longer wheelbase, you could keep it in the Bianchi family and get an Infinito. Or a Cervelo R3, Colnago C60, another Oltre, etc.

[Splash]

Thanks HappyCamper.

As mentioned in earlier post, I did not want to alter my existing race setup on the Oltre XR.

All I was wanting was a recommendation for another frameset to suit a climbing setup.

I was keen on a very stiff and lightweight frameset. Looked at the early Colnago Extreme Power frame sets but very hard to find :-(

I have another bianchi - 928, but not sure if this was a suitable lighter and stiff frameset for serious hill climbing?

Looking at a cheaper CAAD9 frameset and putting all the outlay components on it - Thoughts?


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[1centaur]

I don't think Extreme Power frames are that stiff or that light (I have one) compared to frames made in the last several years. If going back to older Colnagos I would pick the CX1 over the EP - lighter and stiffer. I also think Colnago's slack HT angle provides for more confident descending than steep angles; if I had to pick between a long wheelbase (which is tough to find in production bikes) or a slack HT I would take the latter (though in a custom I would take both).

[Climb01742]

This is very unscientific but both times I did the Mt Washington hillclimb, the most popular frame I saw was a C'dale CAAD. No other frame was even close.

CAADs are light, stiff and cheap. In order, here is what I'd prioritize for a climbing bike:

1. Put a climbing-trained strong rider on it.
2. Put a climbing-trained strong skinny rider on it.
3. Put a climbing trained strong skinny rider on it with a power meter.
4. The right gears.
5. Light low profile alloy hoops.
6. A wind proof vest for descents.
7. See points 1 thru 3 again.

[kramnnim]

Any of the pro level, non aero frames would be excellent. Doesn't seem like cost is an issue but the Evo himods are among the cheaper of the sub 800g frames.

[Splash]

Thanks

How does slack HT angle and longer wheelbase provide for more confidence for hill climbing and descents?

Which Caad was observed to be more popular at the mt Washington hill climb - caad9 or caad10?

Interesting point about wind proof vests during descents.

Looking into the evo frame sets - looks interesting.

How well would the enve ses 2.2 compare to light alloy hoops on ascents and descents from a braking, spin up and stiffness point of view?



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[kramnnim]

Carbon braking surface will always be worse.

[ultraman6970]

For climbing bikes i would go aluminum derosa like a dual, planet or the original merak.

In carbon Hmm... all kuota can climb.

[FlashUNC]

What happycampyer said. You have the bike already with a setup you like.

Just tweak some parts and you're good to go.

[OtayBW]

Forest...trees...

[sandyrs]

Originally Posted by ultraman6970

For climbing bikes i would go aluminum derosa like a dual, planet or the original merak.

In carbon Hmm... all kuota can climb.

The rider is the one who does the climbing. All the bike has to do is not fall apart under them.

I'm firmly on team "how hard is it to swap a crank, just use your Oltre" but here's another idea if you're not short on cash:

Another Oltre.

You don't want your bike you do 320km rides on to be less than as good as your "A" bike. If you love your Oltre why not score another one?