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#1
05-18-2015, 08:36 PM
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Having trouble setting up TRP Spyre brakes
After reading some comments on the forum about road disk calipers I bought some TRP Spyres to upgrade my road BB7s on my Anderson. I began with the front brake, following the install instructions - attach the 160mm adapter to the fittings on the fork, attach the brake cable to the caliper, loosely mount the caliper to the adapter, squeeze the brake lever to properly locate the caliper and pads relative to the disk, and then tighten the bolts holding the caliper. This is not a new procedure to me, it's pretty standard, yet I can't get the caliper mounted so that pads don't rub. My BB7s don't rub. One significant difference in the way the BB7 mounts is that it has a pair of conical washers that allow some minor angular alignment correction between the caliper and adapter. The Spyre doesn't have this degree of freedom, so the caliper relation to the disk is set by the fittings on the fork, and the adapter. All the adjustment is in and out but the alignment doesn't have angular adjustment.
Any pointers on doing this so it works properly? 
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#2
05-18-2015, 09:29 PM
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Did you watch their setup video off of their web page? I followed that and had no issues. Of course I'd have to watch it again because it has been a little while.
http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.ph...1199&catid=206
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#3
05-18-2015, 10:21 PM
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I had alignment limitations with TRP adapters; could possibly be the problem. Face the IS or post mount brackets. Facing aligns mounting bosses square with the axle.
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#4
05-19-2015, 10:36 PM
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Like Hilldancer said. When going to TRP from Avids I had to face my post mounts in order to not have the caliper not pull when tightening. The conical washers you speak of do wonders for micro adjustments.
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#5
05-19-2015, 11:55 PM
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maintain very even torque between the two bolts as you tighten the caliper to the post/adapter. &/or facing, as others have suggested.
compression-less housing improves the braking feel and pad clearance substantially. also, with mechanical disc breaks, if you are burning in new pads you will often readjust once everything has settled/stretched in. so don't go crazy getting it 'perfect' out of the box
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#6
05-20-2015, 06:42 AM
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TRP is pretty lousy when it comes to provide some good instructions for their products. The sequence you describe is correct in regards to attaching the cable and mounting the caliper. Instead of pulling the level before tightening the caliper, you might just eyeball the pads to make sure the gaps are looking even before tigthening it. I find that when you squeeze the level very tight, it has the tendency to pull the caliper off to one side when you release it. In addition, before attaching the cable, make sure the cable stop barrel is bottomed, as you will need to back it out to tension the cable afterward. The engagement of each pad can also be adjusted independently with a recessed side screw (one on each side) so you might have to make some adjustments there. Other than that, there is not a whole lot more to it in terms of installation. Spyres are the best mechanical disc brakes out there, period. Toss those BB7s in the trash bin afterward.
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#8
05-20-2015, 05:09 PM
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The tool used for IS mounts.
   Can be a DIY, or at LBS. Post mount facing tool looks different, but principle is the same.
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#9
05-20-2015, 05:54 PM
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I have Spyres and they are my first disc brakes. At first I didn't even know they could be adjusted left-right. They rubbed and I just thought the bike was slow. I'm a bit slow..... physically and mentally.
Anyway, you are tightening them with the brake lever pulled, right? I know it sounds obvious but I've got to ask. Also, I'd tighten the top and bottom alternating and in small amounts until you know it's not going to move and to get even tightness on both bolts. Mine are centered and don't rub even though the rotors aren't perfectly straight. Mostly unrelated, the compressionless housing makes a huge difference in performance but is likely unrelated to your centering situation. Still, I'd install it before you get the rest figured out.
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#10
05-20-2015, 07:35 PM
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Always confirm the obvious, I agree! Yes, with lever pulled, and tightened slowly and back and forth. I'll get back on it and back the pads out and try again.
Thanks for the great pix HillDancer Quote:
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#11
05-20-2015, 08:18 PM
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Just some trouble shooting- is the wheel fully seated in the drop outs? Is the rotor true?
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#12
05-20-2015, 11:36 PM
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I give up
Yes, and yes - thank you for the suggestions to check.
I re-mounted the BB7 after spending another 1-1/2 unproductive hour messing with the Spyre and it's easy to set up without rubbing. I spoke to Dave Anderson this afternoon and he's skeptical of the fork needing to be faced. Fortunately I only opened one of the two Spyre packages so I think the unopened one is going back and the one I mounted I guess to eBay. Not all experiments work out  Quote:
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#13
05-21-2015, 08:54 AM
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My HY/RD's are a little tough to adjust so I did it the unconventional way and spun the wheel slowly and held the caliper by hand adjusting it as needed. Then I slowly tightened the mounting bolts evenly and everything came out as desired.
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#14
05-21-2015, 09:30 AM
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#15
05-21-2015, 10:34 AM
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Yes, thank you, tried that way as well.
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Linear Mode
