Screw Loose

[gearmeister]

The metal insert where you screw a pedal into the crank arm is loose on my FSA carbon crank. Any thoughts to how to repair?

[rwsaunders]

Timely of you as this just happened to my friend last week as well.

http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/view...004&t=12925020

[CNY rider]

Remove all parts from bicycle that say FSA.
Replace with Shimano or Campy.
Problem solved.

[AngryScientist]

Originally Posted by CNY rider

Remove all parts from bicycle that say FSA.
Replace with Shimano or Campy.
Problem solved.

this. absolutely.

FSA components (i give the handlebars a pass...) are notoriously bad, the cranksets in particular. you can try some hokey fix, but the crankset will never be reliable. get rid of it.

[regularguy412]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

this. absolutely.

FSA components (i give the handlebars a pass...) are notoriously bad, the cranksets in particular. you can try some hokey fix, but the crankset will never be reliable. get rid of it.

I'd have to agree. I spent a summer helping out at my LBS a couple years back. There were at least 2 different FSA Gossamer cranks that had some type of issue. I think FSA finally warrantied them, but I still would hate to have the trouble , out on the road.

Mike in AR

[don compton]

Originally Posted by CNY rider

Remove all parts from bicycle that say FSA.
Replace with Shimano or Campy.
Problem solved.

This problem is not unique to FSA. I have a Campy Record Crank that Campy would not warrant. On the driveside crankarm, the female pedal fitting came loose and just came out of the crankarm. I was stuck riding one legged with one pedal removed from its crankarm. Campy wouldn't warrant it and I had Calphee fix it. Carbon cranks are pretty and slightly lighter, but they are throwaways after a very short life, just like the framesets.
Get fit, lose weight, and ride steel.

[csm]

Steel cranks too?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[FlashUNC]

Warranty the crank, sell the replacement on eBay. Buy another manufacturer's crank.

[Steve in SLO]

I noticed the both of my metal pedal inserts were loose on my FSA cranks during a recent trip to Oregon. I rode about 180 miles over mixed terrain (cx bike) constantly thinking that/wondering if one was going to let loose. They never got any looser, but it was a little disconcerting to be able to wiggle the pedals in the crank arm. The crank has been removed, and is hanging on the wall as a reminder not to buy FSA.

[rustychisel]

Originally Posted by don compton

This problem is not unique to FSA. I have a Campy Record Crank that Campy would not warrant. On the driveside crankarm, the female pedal fitting came loose and just came out of the crankarm. I was stuck riding one legged with one pedal removed from its crankarm. Campy wouldn't warrant it and I had Calphee fix it. Carbon cranks are pretty and slightly lighter, but they are throwaways after a very short life, just like the framesets.
Get fit, lose weight, and ride steel.

original square taper carbon Record, perchance. Yeah, I got one of those. Drive side loose? Check.

My FSA SLK MegaEXO carbon cranks have been solid and dependable for 5 or 6 years. I'll keep them.

[godfrey1112000]

That is how I fixed my FSA crank problem

If you want to waste time try calling them for " customer service"

QUOTE=CNY rider;1419828]Remove all parts from bicycle that say FSA.
Replace with Shimano or Campy.
Problem solved.[/QUOTE]

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by gearmeister

The metal insert where you screw a pedal into the crank arm is loose on my FSA carbon crank. Any thoughts to how to repair?

You can try to get it all the way out, reinstall with JW weld or something but it is really just crap, FSA. If you can't warranty, replace with shimano or Campagnolo.

Campag has some early issues on non UT cranks, early 2000-2003 or so..No issue with UT/PT...but get a metal cranks, like Athena, really nice.

[gearmeister]

Found a carbon repair place that can solve the problem here in Canada ...
carbonwork@msn.com Will let folks know how things turn out...

[false_Aest]

On a serious note:


IF you can get a hold of em:

3M Scotch-Weld Epoxy Adhesive DP460
Loctite-Hysol E120HP

Put on nytril gloves.
Clean parts with acetone.
re-clean parts with acetone.
re-re-clean parts with acetone.

Apply epoxy. Insert properly.
Clean up excess with acetone.

Wait for full cure.
Ride.

The problem I've found is locating DP460 or E120HP in single serving sizes. But those are the epoxies that carbon builders have recommended to me.