#1
|
|||
|
|||
Rim Choice?
So...Im building up another set of wheels for a little fall project for the Calfee.
I have been running the A23/Chorus road set off my Meech all-rounder and want to build something a it lighter. This set will be 28H F+R...hubs will be the latest "Super Lights" from bikehubstore (in a fetching blue). So...Rim choice: A23s again Aerohead (28H OC rear pain to find sometimes) DT Swiss RR415 Kinlin XR200 (or XR200F/270R) I can get good pricing on the first three which brings cost inline with the Kinlins FWIW...DT Swiss is about $15 more per rim, though. Thoughts??? -Mark in St. Louis |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
HED Belgiums too expensive or too heavy? I thought I'd heard that some new 23 width wheels were in the pipelines.
__________________
Friends don't let friends ride junk! |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
DT's are Bomb proof
I have had them for 3.5 years, very dependable and true
you will be pleased with them
__________________
The Fleet Colnago C60 Hors Categorie SN# HC-54-265 |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
In my humble opinion, I would go with the A23s. I have ridden all four rims and in my humble opinion, the A23s give the best ride. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Peter...Just as planned...except...3x on 28H???
-Mark Quote:
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I didn't price them to be honest...but...my impression is that the HEDs are more expensive and the A23s function about the same...no?
-Mark Quote:
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I have 2 sets of A23s for my Meech and they do ride nice...no doubt about it. In that case they are 32H 3x with Chorus hubs...I don't think I could go wrong...maybe something different this time though...???
-Mark Quote:
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Hed rims are better machined and are more round. |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
That's what I assumed, and I agree the A23s are a better value.
-Mark Quote:
Quote:
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Why inside pulling?
Quote:
Wouldn't the pulling spokes put more pressure on the rim at the nipple? If not how is this achieve when lacing? Is this lacing method available online somewhere? In a book? Thanks, BamBam |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Inside pulling spokes just means that the spokes that are heads out are the ones that get pulled when under pedal force. It is assumed that these spokes see more strain and variation in tension than the "pushing" spokes, so putting them on the inside of the flange makes them less likely for the heads to break. In a really well built wheel it probably doesn't matter, but why not hedge your bets?
* I have seen multiple factory and professionally built and tensioned 415 rear wheels crack at the spoke holes around the eyelets. One guy I have ridden with got two of them warrantied - he's 160 lbs. and not hard on his equipment. They would not be my choice. * 28 hole 2x puts the spoke pairs 180 degrees apart. I do not understand why anyone would want to decrease the bracing angle by going to 3x and put up with spokes blocking spoke heads. The spokes only touch at one cross in either set up. * I rather like the Kinlins. They build very consistantly. XR200s are very light rims, so keep that in mind for the rear wheel if you are heavy. The 270s are great for a heavier rider * Light spokes are a great way to lower wheel weight. Consider using DT Revolutions or Wheelsmith XL14s for the non-drive side and front wheel, and Wheelsmith DB14s for a lighter spoke standard butted spoke than DT Comps. If you want to use alloy nipples, keep them off the drive side. On the last light set I built for myself, I wish I had popped for the $14 for drive side ti nipples, just to try them. 24/28 Kinlins and Rev/Comp spokes came out to 1400 grams. |
|
|