Tubeless rim tape

[kppolich]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

Why would it be different between tubes and tubeless? The tape not only has to be air-tight, but it also has to bear the pneumatic pressure. Tubes will take care of the air-tightness requirement, but they do next to nothing to alleviate the pneumatic pressure force.

The need to bear pressure is why 2 layers of tape are needed for high pressure tires, and only one layer is required for low pressure tires. This is regardless of whether or not tubes are used.

I would imaging two wraps of tubeless tape give you a better chance of being air tight with spoke holes and rim edge to edge. The added protection to the tube with a second wrap of tape is directed towards the spoke holes or valve hole area that could cause flats.

Overall, two wraps of tape gives you the benefit of a higher chance of sealing tubeless tires, and protects your tubes if you run them that way. This all assumes that the tubeless tape is 1.) the correct width and 2.) installed correctly (i.e. not up on the tire bead area).

Official HED response:

https://hedcycling.com/faqs/
For HED road and gravel wheels, yes.

With each box of HED Cycling wheels, you will receive rim tape. If your box included HED ivory rim tape, apply two layers before tubeless. If your box included HED black rim tape, apply one layer before tubeless set up.

For HED fat bike wheels, no, you do not need to apply rim tape before tubeless set up. HED’s fat bike wheels utilize Inflatobam, HED’s patented tubeless technology for installing fat bike tires. The twin channel rim design provides a better per-inflation seal by trapping each tire bead against the rim, with no rim tape required for tubeless set up.

[Overshot]

Thanks all for good input.

I figured 2 wraps is a little more secure and likely recommended but wanted to send it out to the group. I had only enough tape to go around once on the wheel and not twice. Twice is my preference (and directed by HED) and will reorder and do that route. Thanks again👍🏽

[Likes2ridefar]

Originally Posted by Overshot

Thanks all for good input.

I figured 2 wraps is a little more secure and likely recommended but wanted to send it out to the group. I had only enough tape to go around once on the wheel and not twice. Twice is my preference (and directed by HED) and will reorder and do that route. Thanks again������������

I had a rear that was leaking slowly in an unknown location so decided to look into how to install tape videos. I landed on this one and it’s pretty fun. I just followed the method today. The tire is snug and popped nicely into place but it took two tries. The first time it didn’t pop on entirely...probably some soap would’ve eliminated that.

Curious what others think. This was tubeless tape, start opposite the valve, wrap around once and some extra, then wrap with electrical tape.

So far so good!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eS047QEd_uM

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by kppolich

I would imaging two wraps of tubeless tape give you a better chance of being air tight with spoke holes and rim edge to edge. The added protection to the tube with a second wrap of tape is directed towards the spoke holes or valve hole area that could cause flats.

Overall, two wraps of tape gives you the benefit of a higher chance of sealing tubeless tires, and protects your tubes if you run them that way. This all assumes that the tubeless tape is 1.) the correct width and 2.) installed correctly (i.e. not up on the tire bead area).

Sealing the rim will be addressed by using the correct width tape. And the issue of sealing is the same for both wide (low pressure) and narrow (high pressure tires), yet 1 layer is okay with low pressure tires. The reason 2 layers is recommended with high pressure is because of the greater force to be held back over the spoke holes with higher pressure.

Also note that the official HED response quoted says nothing about tubes vs tubeless, but the video implies that 2 layers is still recommended with tubes. (The implication in the video is because it is mentioned that their tubeless ready wheels can be used with tubes, and that tubeless tape should be used instead of the snap-on rim strips which are standard with there non-tubeless ready wheels).

[booglebug]

2 wraps of clear Gorilla tape here, no problems

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Spaceman Spiff

Somewhat related question - What if you're running non-tubeless tire (and tubes) on a tubeless-compatible rim?

I believe you're supposed to use tubeless tape, rather than regular rim tape. But do you still need two layers? Or can you get by with a single layer? (And would a single layer be preferred to make the tire fit a little looser so it's easier to install/remove? You don't need the tight fit for tubeless, right?)

On every wheelset I build where the gent wants it 'taped', I use 2 layers of 8898..even on tubes-only clinchers. Far better than velox or plastic stuff, IMHO..

Cheap, easy to apply, doesn't move around...Not sure why anybody would 'opt' for only one layer of tubeless tape. It sure ain't heavy, and not less 'aero'..

[MikeD]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Not sure why anybody would 'opt' for only one layer of tubeless tape. It sure ain't heavy, and not less 'aero'..

Agreed. I don't even see the logic for one layer. If the tape fails at a spoke hole, instant flat and probably a crash.

[p nut]

I use one layer on my mountain bikes where the psi is 7-20. On road or gravel bikes, two layers. I use the same tape as oldp- Scott 8898. Usually get it here

https://www.truckerco.com/product-pa...5mm-x-50m-roll

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by p nut

I use one layer on my mountain bikes where the psi is 7-20. On road or gravel bikes, two layers. I use the same tape as oldp- Scott 8898. Usually get it here

https://www.truckerco.com/product-pa...5mm-x-50m-roll

OK, this horse is getting smelly but why only one layer on your MTB?

[p nut]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

OK, this horse is getting smelly but why only one layer on your MTB?

I’ve messed with tubeless for about 12-13 years or so. Right when Stans was starting to get popular. Used Ghetto tubeless for years, setting it up with multi layers of Gorilla tape, foam strips, etc. When I got a proper set of tubeless rims, I used two layers. Now, those that remember how finicky tubeless was at their infancy, I went through LOTS of tape, taping and re-taping to try to solve leak issues. It starts adding up, especially when I was sold into buying Stans brand tape. So after a while, I used just one layer to see if there were any adverse affects. I’ve personally experienced none. No tears at spoke holes. No unusual leaks. Seals up nice with sealant and Stans shake.

For road though, at higher pressures, tape stretches quite a bit around the spoke holes so I always use 2 layers. But I usually use tubes on road as well. I just like the thinner tubeless tape than rim strips.

[Dave]

I bought wheels that don't require rim tape. If I ever buy tires that fit so loose that tape is required, I'll return them or resell them. My michelin tubeless work fine with fulcrum racing 3 disc brake wheels. I use no more than 65 psi.

[MikeD]

You could try a reusable tubeless rim strip https://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/pr...ubeless-strip/. I read that they recommend one layer of tape underneath to prevent any sealant leakage from going inside the rim, but can no longer find that recommendation on their website.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

OK, this horse is getting smelly but why only one layer on your MTB?

Here's my wild guess about the how the 1 layer/2 layer thing came about for tubeless tape:

Tubeless tires first became common on MTBs. Tubeless tape was designed/selected as required for MTB tires, thick and strong enough to withstand the relatively low pressures of MTB tires.

When tubeless technology moved to road tires, the same type of tape that was proven for MTB tires was employed. But it was descovered that the tape wasn't strong enough for the higher pressure of road tires. The simple solution? Use two layers of the tape.

[Mwhitby]

I've always used two layers and used a small amount of gorilla glue for the last seam cutting it at an angle to avoid it getting caught by a tire lever. I then use an old spoke to burn a small hole for the valve stem where it basically threads into the tape. I'll also use a heat gun to shrink it all together. I've done probably 200+ wheels this way and no complaints. The hed is usually a tight rim to begin with so you may have a tough time getting a tire on depending on the type but I would still go 2.

[Geeheeb]

Have always been fine with one layer on MTB, and high volume road (650b x 47, 700c x 35) but will consider two layers now.