I think I'll stick to alloy handlebars

[oldguy00]

Originally Posted by msl819

This!

My buddy sent this picture last week after a bike cleanup revealed this problem with his bar! Alloy has its issue too.

Uh yeah, like the other person said, that is 100% user fault. That is disgusting as well as ultimate laziness. I'd hate to see the inside of his house...

[R3awak3n]

Originally Posted by Old School

You will have to spend $250 to get a torque wrench that is within 5%.

https://www.modernbike.com/product-2126267280?TID=394

well buy nice or buy twice but I would recommend this

https://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/pr...a-ii-2-16-pro/

yes its expensive but its a forever tool. I ordered one of those pro bike ones of amazon and as soon as I opened it and used it just felt cheap, the bits that came with it were undersized so who knows the qc of the wrench. So I got the effetto mariposa (I got it for like $120 of pro bike kit, maybe they still have em. If you buy stateside they will be about $200-$250).

[bikinchris]

Also, you guys are comparing old aluminum bars to a brand new bar for pro riders. They get new stuff every year at a minimum. The aluminum bars are getting the tape off for the first time in years and pro riders get new tape about every week. They also wash the bike daily.

This was mechanic error or bad product. It's not likely to be sabotage. It COULD be the result of a crash he had during training.

[pasadena]

new Aeroad is just a debacle
First the seatmast problems being recalled and now this with the 3 piece handlebar.
Bad design for one,
and bad qc for the other.

Hope they get the bike sorted before someone is seriously injured.

[parris]

I have several torque wrenches ranging from inexpensive HF models up to a few Snap on dial models. Last year my family bought me one of the Fix It Stix kits with the T driver and torque wrench. THAT little set is accurate and SUPER convenient to use. I use it for both bicycle and firearm applications.

I'd like to add that there's a neat YT channel called Project Farm where the creator tests many tools, lube, adhesive, etc. He had an episode on torque wrenches that was decent and informative. Hope this helps.

[NHAero]

What's the backstory on this photo? I've never seen any corrosion on my alloy bars, and some of them are pretty darn old.

Originally Posted by msl819

This!

My buddy sent this picture last week after a bike cleanup revealed this problem with his bar! Alloy has its issue too.

[9tubes]

Originally Posted by Old School

You will have to spend $250 to get a torque wrench that is within 5%.

https://www.modernbike.com/product-2126267280?TID=394

Not exactly. That Snap-on 1501MRMH is made by CDI. The CDI branded version is far less: http://www.amazon.com/CDI-1501MRMH-8...000KL4HZ8?th=1 (note the pic is wrong; the real tool is much shorter like the 1502)

The difference between the two is that the Snap-On branded tools come on a truck with a smiling Snap-On salesman and personal delivery to your workplace. The CDI tools are for industrial applications where a factory might buy them by the dozen, no smiling salesman involved. No middleman, no high price.

[reuben]

Originally Posted by charliedid

Sabatoge?

Oh, man. First we had a wind blown sand strewn TT crash to speculate on. Now we've got disintegrating carbon fiber handlebars.

Winter doesn't get much better than this!

[Peter P.]

Originally Posted by Elefantino

Always. Use. Torque. Wrenches.

Friends. Don't. Let. Friends. Ride. Carbon.

[charliedid]

Originally Posted by reuben

Oh, man. First we had a wind blown sand strewn TT crash to speculate on. Now we've got disintegrating carbon fiber handlebars.

Winter doesn't get much better than this!

[weisan]

.

https://twitter.com/i/status/1366786001025302529

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by Old School

A torque wrench measures how hard it WAS to have turned a screw to a certain point. It doesn't measure how tight the clamp is around the handlebars.

The human can feel the rate of change of resistance, no torque wrench can do that.

A) The rate of change of resistance usually has more to do with factors like friction and lubrication.

B) Besides, which it is still the human turning the torque wrench.

[bikinchris]

Originally Posted by NHAero

What's the backstory on this photo? I've never seen any corrosion on my alloy bars, and some of them are pretty darn old.

People with caustic sweat soak the bar tape and it eats the bars. They often do this indoors and NEVER wash or replace their nasty bar tape. When you pull it off, the tape has salt flying off as you unwrap it.

I had one customer who would come in every few months so I could get his front derailleur to move again because it would corrode and stop moving. His crank arms had chunks of aluminum eaten away.

[Ralph]

Originally Posted by bikinchris

People with caustic sweat soak the bar tape and it eats the bars. They often do this indoors and NEVER wash or replace their nasty bar tape. When you pull it off, the tape has salt flying off as you unwrap it.

I had one customer who would come in every few months so I could get his front derailleur to move again because it would corrode and stop moving. His crank arms had chunks of aluminum eaten away.

I ride winter and thru the hot summers of Central Florida. My arms/hands sweat a lot in summer, so much so that after a ride, I can wring sweat out of my riding gloves. Every year when I take the bar tape off, there is a layer of white salt on the bars. Left on there a year or so longer, it will "pit" and corrode my aluminum bars. At some point, the bars are ruined. I still ride aluminum bars. 7000 series Ritchey aluminum bars weigh about the same as CF, a little over 200 grams, and are a lot cheaper, so I haven't seen the need to change. I would change if I could figure out an advantage.

[bikinchris]

Originally Posted by Ralph

I ride winter and thru the hot summers of Central Florida. My arms/hands sweat a lot in summer, so much so that after a ride, I can wring sweat out of my riding gloves. Every year when I take the bar tape off, there is a layer of white salt on the bars. Left on there a year or so longer, it will "pit" and corrode my aluminum bars. At some point, the bars are ruined.

You should get some very good electrical tape and put a complete wrap overlapping almost half the width of the electrical tape on the bars where you put your hands on the tops, bends and drops. then go ahead and wrap the bars. Replace the bar wrap often.