I think I'll stick to alloy handlebars - Page 2

batman1425 · #16 03-02-2021, 02:57 PM

Sounds like he was going over some cobbles at the time as well - extra stress on the bars.

Bici-Sonora · #17 03-02-2021, 02:58 PM

When I’m putting out major watts like MVDP, I often break carbon parts with my brutal power. Guys like us know to just throw the spent bits in the weeds and keep on riding like NBD.

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Bici-Sonora · #18 03-02-2021, 03:01 PM

But, somewhat more seriously, I’ve also seen ultra light alloy bars from the 90s brake clean in half. No handle bar is immune to fatigue, especially if it has been over tightened at the stem or brake levers.

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Old School · #19 03-02-2021, 03:22 PM

I believe that the bars breaking had nothing to do with "overtightening" a clamp. by the time you are a mechanic for Elites, you will have a better sense for torque than any "off the shelf torque wrench'.

not to mention, the clamps on levers are better distributed surface area than most clamps, which again doesn't make sense about "overtightening".

I think this is a quick statement to save face of a sponsor

EDS · #20 03-02-2021, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fignon's barber

If that was a paying customer and not MVP, it would be a real bummer: need a new stem too.

With the the three piece canyon bars all he needs is the new extension added to that side, won't even need to rewrap the other side of the bars.

bikinchris · #21 03-02-2021, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R3awak3n

I wouldn't, they probably think they can feel torque after doing hundreds of times.

I've seen lots of mechanics who think they have built in torque wrenches in their hands and wrists. There are too many variables to accurate torque. Use a torque wrench. Team mechanics should have some already pre set to use.

It MIGHT be a sample variation, but don't count on that.

retrofit · #22 03-02-2021, 03:50 PM

.

msl819 · #23 03-02-2021, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wattvagen

aluminum handlebars also can have hidden issues that can lead to failure, especially if you're a corrosive sweater.

This!

My buddy sent this picture last week after a bike cleanup revealed this problem with his bar! Alloy has its issue too.

tepextate · #24 03-02-2021, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R3awak3n

I wouldn't, they probably think they can feel torque after doing hundreds of times.

I definitely cannot feel torque, but haven't been using my torque wrench to secure my levers to my carbon handlebars. Should I be? It's really tough to access the bolt even with a regular hex key (let alone my torque wrench), so I've just been tightening until the levers can't move around laterally or vertically.

Now I'm worried that my handlebars are going to disintegrate on me. You know, since I'm putting out MvDP amounts of power on the regular.

Old School · #25 03-02-2021, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikinchris

I've seen lots of mechanics who think they have built in torque wrenches in their hands and wrists. There are too many variables to accurate torque. Use a torque wrench. Team mechanics should have some already pre set to use.

It MIGHT be a sample variation, but don't count on that.

A torque wrench measures how hard it WAS to have turned a screw to a certain point. It doesn't measure how tight the clamp is around the handlebars.

The human can feel the rate of change of resistance, no torque wrench can do that.

And we aren't even getting into the variation between "how hard it was to turn that screw" clicky wrenches.

Obviously I have great faith in humans, for better or for worse.

dustyrider · #26 03-02-2021, 04:14 PM

Come on guys this all about marginal gains. Just think of the weight savings you can achieve if your bike just disintegrates as it approaches the finish!

R3awak3n · #27 03-02-2021, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tepextate

I definitely cannot feel torque, but haven't been using my torque wrench to secure my levers to my carbon handlebars. Should I be? It's really tough to access the bolt even with a regular hex key (let alone my torque wrench), so I've just been tightening until the levers can't move around laterally or vertically.

Now I'm worried that my handlebars are going to disintegrate on me. You know, since I'm putting out MvDP amounts of power on the regular.

the right torque wrench will work for levers, usually have a lonnnng bit so you can get in there. You are probably fine, carbon is stronger than most think and it takes a bunch of torque for it to actually crack. That said you should get a torque wrench

R3awak3n · #28 03-02-2021, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msl819

This!

My buddy sent this picture last week after a bike cleanup revealed this problem with his bar! Alloy has its issue too.

I mean, that is disgusting though, its not really the fault of the handlebar but the user. Its like tri bikes that have piss all over them, yikes. I bet the handlebar tape looked terrible on those bars and it was long due for a replacement. Specially people that ride the trainer a lot, should re wrap bars every year maybe even more

Old School · #29 03-02-2021, 04:19 PM

You will have to spend $250 to get a torque wrench that is within 5%.

https://www.modernbike.com/product-2126267280?TID=394

charliedid · #30 03-02-2021, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old School

I believe that the bars breaking had nothing to do with "overtightening" a clamp. by the time you are a mechanic for Elites, you will have a better sense for torque than any "off the shelf torque wrench'.

not to mention, the clamps on levers are better distributed surface area than most clamps, which again doesn't make sense about "overtightening".

I think this is a quick statement to save face of a sponsor

Sabatoge?