Converting from friction to index shifting

[Derosid]

I have an older DeRosa that I converted to index shifting a few years back with some Ergo-8 levers and cable stops that attach to the shifter bosses. I am now updating to 12-speed Campy SR mechanical and notice that the cable guides supplied with the SR group don’t fit into the hole my downtube cable stops.

The shifting seems a bit harder than I expected, but that could just be due to new mechanisms. But I’m wondering if I should try and use the SR cable ends at the downtube. I could drill out the existing holes to accept the cable guides. Or is there a better option for converting the downtube shifter bosses to cable stops for indexed shifiting?

[cgolvin]

Order some of these brass adjusters from Dave Kirk, problem solved.

[Peter P.]

A picture of what Campy supplied with the new shifters would help clarify your problem as I can't imagine what Campy did.

I see no reason why you can't continue to use the existing shifter boss guides.

[bironi]

Originally Posted by cgolvin

Order some of these brass adjusters from Dave Kirk, problem solved.

And they are much sexier.
15 bucks, isn't that what a good candy bar costs?
So, is that a DeRosa?

[robt57]

Originally Posted by bironi

And they are much sexier.
15 bucks, isn't that what a good candy bar costs?
So, is that a DeRosa?

How to affix to old DT braze-ons is beyond me.

[jds108]

Originally Posted by cgolvin

Order some of these brass adjusters from Dave Kirk, problem solved.

Pretty sure that Dave's threading is coarser than those campy parts. I'm going off memory and may be wrong.

I'd cut the nose off one of your new housing ferrules and call it good. (assuming a new ferrule fits in the adjuster of course)

[rccardr]

Looks like you are using the wrong cable ferrules.
Plain old metal or nylon ferrules without a tail should fit just fine.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Derosid

I have an older DeRosa that I converted to index shifting a few years back with some Ergo-8 levers and cable stops that attach to the shifter bosses. I am now updating to 12-speed Campy SR mechanical and notice that the cable guides supplied with the SR group don’t fit into the hole my downtube cable stops.

The shifting seems a bit harder than I expected, but that could just be due to new mechanisms. But I’m wondering if I should try and use the SR cable ends at the downtube. I could drill out the existing holes to accept the cable guides. Or is there a better option for converting the downtube shifter bosses to cable stops for indexed shifiting?

Find some brass ferrules..for 4mm housing. I have some I can send you.

[cgolvin]

Originally Posted by robt57

How to affix to old DT braze-ons is beyond me.

You may have to zoom in, but I have them on my Peg and am using the Campy 12 ferrules with the tail.

[Derosid]

Thanks for all the suggestions. It fit after all. It is a tight fit, and I removed the plastic adjuster to drill it out, when I was able to get the SR ferrule to go in with a little fiddling. Error on my part, as the tolerances are very tight.

[Derosid]

Originally Posted by bironi

So, is that a DeRosa?

Yes, good eye!

[cgolvin]

And did the rough shifting go away with the installation of the new ferrules?

Originally Posted by Derosid

Yes, good eye!

Well, you did say it was a DeRosa in your first five words …

[Derosid]

Originally Posted by cgolvin

And did the rough shifting go away with the installation of the new ferrules?

I have the bike set up on a trainer right now, and I think the previous difficult shifting may have been awkward hand angles while the bike was on the workstand.

However, the shifts do seem to take more sideways swing in the paddle, particularly on the larger rear sprockets, than I remember on my Ergo-8 shifters. And noticeably more movement is required than the Shimano GRX shifters on my commuter bike. Have I missed an adjustment in cable tension?

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by Derosid

I have the bike set up on a trainer right now, and I think the previous difficult shifting may have been awkward hand angles while the bike was on the workstand.

However, the shifts do seem to take more sideways swing in the paddle, particularly on the larger rear sprockets, than I remember on my Ergo-8 shifters. And noticeably more movement is required than the Shimano GRX shifters on my commuter bike. Have I missed an adjustment in cable tension?

Cable travel between shift points, and therefore paddle travel between shift points, is fixed, and can not be adjusted. Perhaps the levers are mounted to the handlebar in a different orientation, and therefore the hands/fingers actuate the paddles from a different orientation, requiring a different amount of hand/finger motion for the same paddle motion?

[quacker2000]

Originally Posted by Derosid

I have the bike set up on a trainer right now, and I think the previous difficult shifting may have been awkward hand angles while the bike was on the workstand.

However, the shifts do seem to take more sideways swing in the paddle, particularly on the larger rear sprockets, than I remember on my Ergo-8 shifters. And noticeably more movement is required than the Shimano GRX shifters on my commuter bike. Have I missed an adjustment in cable tension?

I agree with the poster above. The lever throw shouldn't change due to cable tension. Usually cable tension issues result in poor indexing.

I wonder if the throw is just different from those other pretty dramatically different examples. I'd worry less about how much or little throw there is and more on if it is smoothly and accurately shifting up and down the gear range.