Impact drivers

[mtechnica]

I use a brushless dewalt xr

[Gummee]

Originally Posted by wc1934

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the big 3 - Makita, Milwaukee, Dewalt.
I have the Makita (combo - drill and impact driver) and like their product. I went with it because the smaller hand grip felt better than the other 2.

I went w Makita cause my buddies who work on cars all day, every day haven't killed theirs yet.

KC Tools has some Wera impact bits that work really well for removing and installing some bike bits (6-bolt discs for example) if you're careful with the impact driver.

The impact driver really speeds up building bikes. Even more so than the rotating head Snap-On ratchet I use as well.

M

[likebikes]

this is the only impact you need:

[fmradio516]

Originally Posted by likebikes

this is the only impact you need:

A little different but yes, id use one of these for some auto work. Then an impact driver for around the house.

[HenryA]

Originally Posted by likebikes

this is the only impact you need:

For removing a screw thats stuck on something that can take a hard hit, these work better than anything. The combination of the hammer strike pushing on the fastener and turning it at the same time WILL make it come loose.

[dddd]

I've used the basic Craftsman 1/4" for deck building, it and it's modest batteries have held up to driving thousands of long deck screws and only showed (by the smell of it) stress when driving consecutive 3/8" lag bolts.

For bigger stuff I use a 1/2" drive AC electric impact wrench.

[11.4]

We probably crank and uncrank around 400 bolts or extended thread wood screws a day, sometimes four or five times that, all on pallets and both metal and wood casings for fragile equipment. We do it all with 1/4" impact drivers. Some of the bolts and lags have up to 3/4" heads, and a 1/4" driver has the power to do it. A few comments:

1. I'd not use an impact driver near a bike. Impact drivers and torque control are incompatible ideas. You can snap the head of a bolt easily with an impact driver, and that's not how to build a bike.
2. The mini impact drivers, 12 volt and the like, are cute but the biggest problem is that they still have enough power to torque out of your hands and either hurt you or mess up your work.
3. Brands tend to be strongest regionally -- the east coast is big Milwaukee territory while the west coast is stronger in Makita. Dewalt is distributed well nationally. What makes Dewalt popular is that they run very short-lived product cycles so there's always something new, and doing so gives them the opportunity to be first to market with new ideas such as smaller grips, their 36V cordless miter saw, and so on. Go to YouTube and check out videos from AvE. He does teardowns of a lot of these tools and the general drift is that Dewalts get very good promotional prices but the innards aren't up to the quality of Makita. Milwaukee sells itself above all on its batteries, which are incredibly powerful, but a battery that lasts three days instead of two isn't necessarily a plus when you can recharge daily anyway. Milwaukee internal mechanisms tend to be better engineered than Dewalt but not, for the most part, as well as Makita. Consider Makita a conservative tool manufacturer who sticks with reliable and unbreakable -- like Subaru. Personally, Makita is my favorite, and their more recent release off powerful tools like their new heavy duty cordless reciprocating saw and cordless rotary hammers just reinforces that impression. Construction quality is a critical issue here -- remember that a $140 cordless drill needs to be manufactured at a total assembled cost of about $30 leaving the factory, and manufacturers are willing to scrimp to save pennies. I've never broken a Makita tool in my life, but I can remember breaking four Dewalt pro tools and at least two Milwaukee ones. I won't even get Ryobi and other low-end brands.
4. If you've started with a brand, the worst economy is to end up with a bunch of different tools with different brands and different batteries. We'll have a couple brands floating around to accommodate some tools we really want in one particular brand -- everyone has some utter winners in certain classes -- but our main lines of tools and batteries are down to one brand, which for us is Makita.
5. Makita has been lowering the prices on their batteries, often drastically. Theirs are much better than the aftermarket ones, but there are so many aftermarket Makita ones that Makita had to respond with more aggressive pricing. The aftermarket ones have a tendency to be thermally labile (i.e., burst into flames) and they also burn out rapidly under heavy drain. Milwaukee batteries aren't made from better batteries or better materials; they just pack an extra 2-6 cells into a larger battery pack. It makes them heavier and bulkier. As far as Makita goes, I'd stick with original Makita batteries, and the same for other brands. There are a couple good videos on YouTube comparing battery life and longevity for original versus aftermarket.

[Dekonick]

Pick from the big three. I use DeWalt because they are local and there is a nice sale from time to time... They will also trade in old for new @ the factory outlet... Again, local to me. Now I am invested heavily so won't change any time soon... a mix of 18 and 20v tools using the 20v adapter as well as those 18v batteries that are still holding up. It is easy to rehab your batteries if you don't mind soldering a little and aren't afraid to get dirty.

[pdmtong]

This $99 makita drill/driver pak meets my needs
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-CT226-.../dp/B01489O21G

[pjm]

No Festool fans out there?

[GScot]

Originally Posted by pjm

No Festool fans out there?

I love em but they seem more at home in the craft maker and artist arsenal. And of course finish carpentry. Not so much for impact drivers and drills.

Talking 110V tools here but I needed a really good jigsaw a couple years ago and tried Festool. I like the barrel style and when I can hold the saw underneath so I'm looking at the blade which really lends itself to the barrel type. Ended up with a Makita that cost just a little less than the Festool and cuts square to the surface and straight without needing frequent guide adjustment/replacement that the Festool is known for. I intended to buy the Festool but Woodcraft had em all out for demo and Makita could make any cut the Festool could.

If I ever need the ultimate jigsaw or track saw I'm probably going Mafell.

[Dave]

Originally Posted by pdmtong

This $99 makita drill/driver pak meets my needs
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-CT226-.../dp/B01489O21G

Always notice the battery size. The 3.0 AH is a must to use with tools like circular saws or string trimmers. The small batteries lower the cost.

[pdmtong]

Originally Posted by Dave

Always notice the battery size. The 3.0 AH is a must to use with tools like circular saws or string trimmers. The small batteries lower the cost.

yes true. at one time I might have "invested" in a system but that's not the case anymore. I haven't used my (corded) circular saw in years.

[Roillful]

I have a Makita impact driver, I use it in my home workshop and used it regularly when I'm there.
It's a brilliant bit of kit.

[Gummee]

Originally Posted by 11.4

1. I'd not use an impact driver near a bike. Impact drivers and torque control are incompatible ideas. You can snap the head of a bolt easily with an impact driver, and that's not how to build a bike.

I disagree

Impact drivers are the bee's knees building bikes. Among other reasons is that they're easier on your wrists

...but... you can't just hammer in small bolts in metal like you can into wood.

As always YRMV with experience and skill

M