Torque Wrench/Calipers

[binxnyrwarrsoul]

Need a recommendation for a torque wrench and a set of measuring calipers. I always have a pro mechanic friend build everything and he tightens everything to spec. Just want to be able to reposition bars/stems/posts and not eff anything up. Apologies if I sound green, I obsessively love bikes (and cars), but don't get that buzz I wish I did working on them. Fortunate to have "a guy" for the cars and bikes. Any help would be very appreciated.

[benb]

Bars/Stems/Posts you just need a torque key.

https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Fixed-...82&sr=8-9&th=1

Seems a little excessive on price I guess but what do I know. My Trek came with a free one.

This Ritchey one is a better price:

https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/access...rque-key-6-bit



If you're not going all in on maintenance you don't really need anything other than that.

You don't actually need calipers for any particular bike maintenance task. They are kind of fun to have though. There are lots of relatively low cost digital calipers out there that are fine.

There are tons of brands selling these, they are branded different but seem to mostly be the same.. they will do the job for the curiousity stuff on a casual bench like measuring tires.

This one (LOL) is $115, maybe it's a fancy one, but if you just search digital calipers on Amazon there will be others that look almost identical for 1/10th the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-...s%2C288&sr=8-6

[sheepdog84]

Save on the calipers by getting something relatively inexpensive, but reliable. here's a set I've purchased that I've been pleased with.

Then, if you can manage it, go for the Click-torque wrench set by Wera. I used cheaper torque applications for some time, but was eventually let down by them. It's pricey, but so easy to use & accurate, too.

And to echo the previous post, a torque key is great for super quick adjustments - I carry one with me on rides with a small set of bits. If I need to make any adjustments on the road, I've had more success with a torque key than a multitool for the longevity of bolt heads.

[benb]

If you're going to splash out on a general purpose torque wrench make sure you cover the entire range of torque bike parts require.

There is no point in going for that WERA unless you buy a second one to cover the high torque items, which would probably mean you want something like 50Nm at the high end. Cassette lock rings are 40Nm, some BBs and cranks are high torque as well but I forget what exactly because it's been a while and the newer Shimano ones only require 15Nm.

All pointless if you're just going to do stems/bars/posts. Plenty of shops are using the fixed torque keys because it's faster and with less chance of screwing up than using an adjustable torque wrench.

[Mikej]

I’ve found that it takes a 1/4” and a 3/8” to cover the spreads of 3-50NM.

[catchourbreath]

Generally you wanna look at what parts you need to adjust or work on. If you only want to play with the fit and need stem/bars/seat then a low range ~4-15nm wrench is fine. Park makes a preset with like 4/5/5.5/6 that's helpful.

[tellyho]

Does anybody really use a torque wrench for cassette lockrings and bottom brackets? That would be inappropriate on any bike I own, but I know many of you have much more valuable bikes.

The Park torque wrench is acceptable and should be $70ish.

[benb]

Not torquing BBs, Cranks, Cassettes, and Chainrings are sure fire ways to have issues if you're a strong rider or a larger rider.

We have "phantom noise" threads all the time and not installing those heavy duty parts correctly is a source of those issues.

Most of those parts you cannot achieve correct torque with a lot of the common tools bicyclists buy. Your standard hex wrench set will have sizes to tighten those bolts but the arms on the wrench are too short to get 50Nm of torque.

The stupid thing on fancy bikes is the delicate small parts that need a torque wrench to avoid breaking them, not the big beefy parts that need a torque wrench because they require high torque.

[EB]

I have two torque wrenches (made by PRO of all things). One is for up to 20nm, one goes up to 60nm. The latter tool is a requirement if you work on SRAM or any other groupset that requires 54nm torque. Lack of proper torque on SRAM cranksets and bottom brackets is a recipe for creaking.

[572cv]

I did an upgrade a year or two ago and wanted a US made set of tools....and found Tekton. decent pricing. I tried them.

https://www.tekton.com

The torque wrenches work well as do the socket sets. They come with cases. It should be noted that the scales are english on one side and metric on the other, which is handy. That they were built to be easier to use in english units is fine. The metric is just as accurate if a little more thinking needed to get it dialed to the right setting.

[catchourbreath]

Worth mentioning that tekton along with many companies mentioned do not manufacture torque wrenches in house. A lot are from Taiwan with varying versions of Torque Tech or Matatakitoyo for a bunch of brands in the bike industry especially. CDI makes Snap On stuff I believe now.

[PacNW2Ford]

CDI is a subsidiary of Snap-On, so that makes sense. For typical low-torque cycling applications, I use an adjustable CDI torque key/screwdriver. For bigger jobs I have two Sears-era Craftsman click type torque wrenches. For really big jobs like torquing car wheel lugs, I have a 1/2-inch drive CDI.

I use Mitutoyo digital calipers.

[9tubes]

Calipers: My digital calipers always seem to have dead batteries, so I got a dial caliper from Wiha: https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-41102-Di.../dp/B001CTUCGA

In response to the above post, I do use a torque wrench on BB, wheel lockrings, brake caliper bolts. I torque everything. I like no worries. Hampsten set up the bike perfectly the first time (everything straight, aligned, tapped, chased, torqued etc.) It's nice never having to worry. I do a check of every bolt each spring and that's it.

One thing to consider for aspiring torque wrench buyers: good ones last forever. You will not care how much it cost 20 years from now, but you will be happy that you had the quality for all those years.

[krooj]

Originally Posted by PacNW2Ford

CDI is a subsidiary of Snap-On, so that makes sense. For typical low-torque cycling applications, I use an adjustable CDI torque key/screwdriver. For bigger jobs I have two Sears-era Craftsman click type torque wrenches. For really big jobs like torquing car wheel lugs, I have a 1/2-inch drive CDI.

I use Mitutoyo digital calipers.

Similar setup here. Be careful to not buy the Mitutoyo calipers from eBay or Amazon - there are a ton of fakes out there, and you can avoid getting fleeced by going through an authorized distributor.

I'll also toss the Effetto Maripossa torque wrench out there: https://www.effettomariposa.eu/colle...-torque-wrench. Yeah, it's expensive, but that's what I use for 99% of my lower torque bicycle work, and it's a quality unit. Bigger jobs like the motorcycle or BBs require the CDI.

edit: another invaluable "bike" tool is something like this: https://shop.snapon.com/product/Roun...-Ratchet/TNF72. The SnapOn unit is obnoxiously expensive, but that style of orbital 1/4" ratchet with a bit holder is super, super handy for most bike fasteners.

[9tubes]

I don't know who makes the Mariposa but it would be difficult to beat a Hazet or CDI, and either is far less expensive than the Mariposa.

On the Snap-on TNF72 (the ¼" roto-ratchet): I have one, I like it, but I like the Bondus flex head allen wrenches more. For me it's faster to grab an allen rather than a ratchet plus an allen socket.