Very specific - shift cable housing ferrule for Ritchey Road Logic

[alexihnen]

I’ve tried quite a few ferrules at this spot - metal, plastic, a couple different ones of each. There’s nothing wrong with the braze-on or anything, I just can’t find something that really sits in the frame well. Thoughts? Ideas?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hindmost]

Shorten the cable housing?

[phoenix]

Agreed, it looks as though the housing/cable could be shortened to lessen the angle of entry to the cable stop. I could be wrong, but I believe there are only 4 and 5mm ferrules, and I'm pretty confident that a 4mm would be too small. May not rattle though due to the tension created by the actual cable. My first move would be to shorten the cable/housing so it has a more direct route to the stop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[alexsteinker]

I’ve always ran the metal ones on mine with no issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[j_b]

I use the metal ferrules and they sit perfectly flush. Haven't done any damage to the paint or anything, plus they look cool.

[slambers3]

I’d like to see the rest of the bar setup, see how the cables run and how much extra housing is flopping around. Best guess would be to shorten housing and substitute metal ferrules.
Here’s mine, admittedly could trim a bit of housing as I’ve moved towards a lower position since the initial build… Campagnolo ferrules if you didn’t guess that already. I use metal ferrules for every housing contact point unless something else is specified by the manufacturer, its been my experience that they enhance shift feel. Add anti seize or grease to prevent the metal from corroding itself to the frame. Hope this helps.

[alexihnen]

Shortening the housing it is - at least for the first try. I did flip the stem and there’s probably a little excess there, though I really didn’t think it was much. Housing is a bit old and stiff too. Still, last time I tried the various ferrules not seemed to seat well even without the housing connected. My other bikes seem to hold the ferrules quite snug.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MikeD]

Originally Posted by alexihnen

Shortening the housing it is - at least for the first try. I did flip the stem and there’s probably a little excess there, though I really didn’t think it was much. Housing is a bit old and stiff too. Still, last time I tried the various ferrules not seemed to seat well even without the housing connected. My other bikes seem to hold the ferrules quite snug.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see cracks in your housing. Recommend you replace your cables.

[alexihnen]

^ That too. Was a well-used, though not abused, bike when I got it. It’s sat on a trainer 95% of its life with me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ralph]

There are also 4.5 MM ferules.

[Peter P.]

Contact Ritchey USA support and see if they recommend anything specific.

[osbk67]

Originally Posted by Ralph

There are also 4.5 MM ferules.

Exactly. Stock Campagnolo Ergopower 11-speed ferrules correctly and snugly fit my current 2018- RoadLogic, as they did my now-sold 2015 edition.

[dddd]

Efficient and accurate cable control of calipers or derailers requires that the ends of all housings be in line with the cable path, so it's a major peeve of mine whenever things get sloppy like shown.
The pictured housing stop begs for a bigger ferrule OD, a shim or perhaps pinching the stop down to the OD of a standard ferrule.
I have at times used my dial caliper in search of the biggest-OD ferrules for some particular frame's oversized stops, but which shouldn't be necessary.
Oh, and it's not the fault of the housing lengths or routing.

Unless the industry is going to abandon all cable operation for insulated wires and hydraulic hoses, then the performance of said cabling needs to be as good as it can be and that includes keeping the ends of all housings aligned with the cable path.

Recalling the early DiaCompe aero brake levers with their round-ended swivel ferrules, which nicely relieved stress on the cable housing itself, but which then had the sharply-bent cable wire sawing a slot in the tip of the tilted ferrule. The next generation of these levers were improved by having a fixed-position socketed ferrule port in the lever body, which meant that the still-somewhat-tight bend radius in the cable wire was confined to inside of the lined cable housing, so no more grinding friction and better braking. I'll forgive the oversight on the original version, because those seemed intended to have the housings go straight into drilled holes in the handlebar with much less if any tilting of the ferrule off the path of the cable.