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  #16  
Old 11-26-2021, 11:50 AM
echappist echappist is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accordvsick View Post
Thanks for the pictures and responses everyone.

I think I am getting close to having a parts list together.

1. Battery Charger SM-BCR2 (seems pretty compatible with external and internal batteries?)
2. Junction A EW-RS910 (I like how this is integrated into the handlebar)
Wireless EW-WU111 (I have a garmin - seems cool?)
3. Junction B JC41
4. Front Derailleur 6870

Regarding the different battery options - which would be the most ideal if I were to stick it in a saddle bag or front handlebar bag?

Internal Battery BT-DN110?
Internal Battery BTR2 ?
External battery?
Seems like the BT-DN110 is quite slender, but the BTR2 is a older version?

Also, what is typical in terms battery life you guys are getting? I charge all my stuff before every ride (garmin, lights (3 of them)). Do these older di2 setups last more than 6 hours of riding (I don't do any overnight bikepacking)?

The frame I am going to outfit is a Cielo cross racer disc. I was looking at the cable routing last night and both derailleurs actually run across the top tube. I wonder if I will be able to slip the cables into the existing cable ferrule slots.
For 1, it charges either internal or external, but not both types. The internal will charge both BTR2 and DN110. Both are about the same size (I have both)

For 2, EW-WU111 is quite unnecessary. I like the RS-910 and have it on three bikes. Only caveat about RS-910 is it would be best to pair it with a compatible bar and one that allows full internal routing.

I usually get a few months out of my Di2 internal batteries. Certainly no need to charge it on a weekly basis. Best to check status before a big ride though.

A lot of these could be found used. Actually a bit surprising how much the internal battery charger costs (I sold an essentially new one for $70 a few years ago).
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  #17  
Old 11-26-2021, 11:50 AM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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A lot of those last post question are answered in the thread, read thru. Simply put, the battery/charger combo you'd use are in a post. Nutshell, different charger for internal VS external. I paid 35.00 for the last external charger I bought. Don't know if that will happen again. Suggest you stick toward the internal.

1st gen internal battery is fine, but if you want to get into more modern Di2 features like syncroshift you'll need the DN-110+ as that has the storage needed for the code for the more advanced stuff. I setup one syncro shift and turned it off. BS IMO.


Battery life is superb as long as you don't get a bad used battery.

If I shift a crazy amount for 4-5 rides I might charge before riding again.

I have only once got caught out and stopped at LBS to charge while I went and got coffee. I have been Di2ing for 7 seasons.

One time after I added climber pod, I accidentally taped the main e-tube loop at the shifter that went to the A junction to the bar. Later, I bunny hopped a Speed bump and landed front heavy and shifter slipped down enough the cable unplugged. User error, but only issue I have had from day one.
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Last edited by robt57; 11-26-2021 at 11:56 AM.
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  #18  
Old 11-26-2021, 12:01 PM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by echappist View Post
Only caveat about RS-910 is it would be best to pair it with a compatible bar and one that allows full internal routing.

And the price. ew-76a used $25.00, RS-910 never even near 100.00 anymore, more like 100.00 more than a used or NOS ew-76a. Just saying.

Should bought mine earlier, when they were 96.00. Oh Well...

When I built my NOS S-Works Roubaix I was going to use the RS-910 I had bought. But was not going to start drilling my carbon bars, so I just grabbed an extra ew-76a to get it rolling. Probably stay on there until I get new bars, #Won'tHoldBreath
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Last edited by robt57; 11-26-2021 at 12:03 PM.
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  #19  
Old 11-26-2021, 01:15 PM
TerryDi2 TerryDi2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robt57 View Post
Is there a wire route provision in that steerer mount/top cap setup thru expander i wonder?

-Saw install video: getting wire past expander has bigger gap in knurled bit for wire to pass. Design is for internal stem route. So stem and bars also specific for that.
This is what I did ;-)







(more images of the rest of the installation here)
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  #20  
Old 11-26-2021, 02:31 PM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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Nice, I may try with a spacer under stem notched facing front.
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  #21  
Old 11-26-2021, 05:44 PM
accordvsick accordvsick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerryDi2 View Post
This is what I did ;-)







(more images of the rest of the installation here)
Nice! Your page is awesome.

Anyone know if I'll be able to use 6870 rear front and rear derailleur with a 10 speed cassette until I can locate a 11 speed wheelset?
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  #22  
Old 11-26-2021, 06:46 PM
echappist echappist is offline
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You need a 11-speed cassette
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  #23  
Old 11-26-2021, 07:35 PM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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Originally Posted by accordvsick View Post
Nice! Your page is awesome.

Anyone know if I'll be able to use 6870 rear front and rear derailleur with a 10 speed cassette until I can locate a 11 speed wheelset?

HG-700 and HG-800 11-34 11 speed cassettes fit on 8-10 speed freehubs
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  #24  
Old 11-27-2021, 11:04 AM
accordvsick accordvsick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robt57 View Post
HG-700 and HG-800 11-34 11 speed cassettes fit on 8-10 speed freehubs

That's great info! I did not know about this.

Are there any crankset and cassette capacity concerns with the fd and rd I am going with?

Front is a r8000 52/36 , guess I'll be fitting with the 34t hg-700 for now.
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  #25  
Old 11-27-2021, 11:27 AM
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weisan weisan is online now
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If you go with 34t, you will most likely need a medium-cage rear derailleur, i.e. the longer “GS” version. I think that's what you have (6870 Di2 Ultegra RD).
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...D-6870-GS.html
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  #26  
Old 11-27-2021, 02:54 PM
TerryDi2 TerryDi2 is offline
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Yeah.. you'd need a -GS rear derailleur.

Note that even though the specs say 32T is the max for the RD-6870-GS, it'll do 34T no problem (I have done just that).
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  #27  
Old 11-27-2021, 09:05 PM
accordvsick accordvsick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weisan View Post
If you go with 34t, you will most likely need a medium-cage rear derailleur, i.e. the longer “GS” version. I think that's what you have (6870 Di2 Ultegra RD).
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...D-6870-GS.html
Yup just doublechecked and have a GS. Will start looking for a cassette.

I am thinking about stuffing the junction A (and battery) into my handlebar bag if I can't find a bar end junction A.
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  #28  
Old 12-01-2021, 11:03 AM
accordvsick accordvsick is offline
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Quick update:

I was able to source all of the parts. One thing that dawned on me last night was that I am receiving a JC41. I think this was intended to be installed internally in the seattube and there actually is a JC40 which has a screw mount. Any issues with mounting the JC41 externally (thinking 3M tape and a ziptie)? Not sure how it will fair with moisture,dirt (I am installing this on my cross bike where it will see dirt and moisture in the BB area).

My current purchased parts list:
2x 350mm cables
1x300mm cable
1x600mm cable
1x700mm cable
1x1000mm cable
SM-EW90 (will try to stick into handlebar bag)
JC41 (Mount to the chainstay/bottom bracket area hopefully)
BT-DN110 (will try to stick into handlebar bag, or maybe go the fork steerer route)
SMBCR2

6870 FD and RD
34T HG800
52T R8000 crankset (existing)

Last edited by accordvsick; 12-01-2021 at 11:41 AM. Reason: typos
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  #29  
Old 12-01-2021, 11:36 AM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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Ive cut the external one for internal use.

The e-tube system wire/ports are designed for the wet and self seal, just make sure they pop when you insert.
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  #30  
Old 12-01-2021, 03:15 PM
TerryDi2 TerryDi2 is offline
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On my MTB I've taped the SM-JC41 to the chainstay, and it's fine - no problems with it getting wet.

Just make sure you insert dummy plugs into any unused ports and you'll be ok! ;-)
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