GCN Lube video

[Alan]

See recent GCN video on chain lube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pu2cdw76eUE

I found it somewhat interesting but very non committal as I guess you would expect given the guest from Zero Friction Cycling and how they make money. GCN showed a pic of a Park Tool chain measuring tool which is not one of the recommended testers but am sure all will comment on this. I use other tools for measurement including the Pedros tool and one from Wipperman.

I went to their site and they have a new calculator that seems to be decent. See link to calculator:

https://www.omnicalculator.com/sport...nt-cost-to-run

This link is to their latest testing
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/

Let the fun begin!! Just to start off the discussion I am using Ceramic Speed UFO drip which seems to be working well but I have not been thru an entire chain cycle yet so I can't comment on mileage but I like it a lot so far.

Alan

[edgerat]

I live in the PNW and have been told that wax is not worth it for our wet weather, then I look at the data from ZF and it surprised me, a lot. I did add the Shimano chain checker to my cart after watching that.

[bikinchris]

Someone needs to really test waxing against good chain lubes. Taking your chain completely off and carefully stripping it and cleaning it on a regular basis and measuring wear between the two methods. But very slight differences in power, terrain and weight can skew results, so the same rider would need to use both chains to make the comparison even.
in really wet weather, using a wet lube makes sense. In really dry riding, a dry lube or even waxing might make the most sense.

[bshell]

Yes, like a test of nearly every lube and the resulting data.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by bikinchris

Someone needs to really test waxing against good chain lubes. Taking your chain completely off and carefully stripping it and cleaning it on a regular basis and measuring wear between the two methods. But very slight differences in power, terrain and weight can skew results, so the same rider would need to use both chains to make the comparison even.
in really wet weather, using a wet lube makes sense. In really dry riding, a dry lube or even waxing might make the most sense.

The Zero Friction Cycling test isn't good enough? It includes testing the lubes under different conditions (dry, wet, gritty, etc.), and periodic re-lubrication according to the lube manufacturers instructions. (Note: Zero Friction Cycling sells chains and lubes, but they don't manufacture either.)

https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/

[Likes2ridefar]

A more relevant test for me would be total time futzing with the lube.

Wax has let me down there after trying a number of brands and cleaning techniques. It just doesn’t last as long between applications as I was expecting in my dry desert riding conditions, requires more up front work, and wears out quick links much faster for an added cost.

It seems synergetic lube did good for a drip lube and that is my experience as well. Just as quiet as wax, if you wipe after each ride the drivetrain stays clean enough, lasts long, and doesn’t require all the extra work.

[bshell]

Worthwhile experiments are done in appropriate and repeatable conditions.

In this case, the information is then compared across lubrication products.

What an individual does after being armed w/ that information involves uncontrolled variables pertaining to understanding, abilities, diligence etc. and isn't relevant any longer.

[Likes2ridefar]

The footnotes at zero friction read like their testing machine is basically useless for comparing to real road or trail riding, especially the latter. I just perused the chain efficiency piece since it had data on distance per single application.

[bshell]

The text is super small but 'basically useless' is not at all the takeaway.

ZFC considers their data 'conservative' and that the real world is likely much harsher than the lab...leading to even more accelerated wear and cost and diminished efficiency.

That doesn't change the ranking of the lubricants.

**Edit: The Silca Synergistic and Synerg-e do VERY well in the lab during Block 1 w/ no contaminants so I see what you are saying. But after that block the results drop considerably. Something that your desert environs (gravel rides, presumably) would introduce from the get-go.

[Likes2ridefar]

I think it does if they state to estimate double to triple differences in real world vs test for application intervals for optimal performance.

Edit: and what I mean by this is I am a little peeved that after being pushed to wax here by all the positive comments it just doesn’t seem worth the effort for a dirt oriented bike. Perhaps road is different.

I had best results with some cheap hot wax I bought on Amazon in a tub, decent with the silca drip wax and gave away a bag of silca hot wax and the cooker it was in after only two uses. I used it on a mountain bike and after only a few rides (like 6 hours) it was already not performing well. The second time was similar. I’ll be the first to admit I’m not the best mechanic but I do nerd out on activities like this and spent far too much time ensuring the chain was stripped clean before application and likewise for applying the wax.

[eddief]

just name it please.

[capt_velo]

Originally Posted by eddief

just name it please.

Candle wax seems to be the best according to calculator.

[Pastashop]

What do I use for these conditions?..

[Likes2ridefar]

Water?

[bshell]

Originally Posted by Likes2ridefar

I had best results with some cheap hot wax I bought on Amazon in a tub, decent with the silca drip wax and gave away a bag of silca hot wax and the cooker it was in after only two uses. I used it on a mountain bike and after only a few rides (like 6 hours) it was already not performing well. The second time was similar. I’ll be the first to admit I’m not the best mechanic but I do nerd out on activities like this and spent far too much time ensuring the chain was stripped clean before application and likewise for applying the wax.

Bummer to hear the Silca solid was not working for you. Interesting that the cheap-o was better. I'm curious what that was, if you remember?

As you'd expect, road use lasts longer than dusty terrain but while 6 hours is on the low end I wouldn't say it's dramatically so. I can't think of a way to compare dust levels but another factor would be how many miles you're getting in in those six hours. This is a tricky metric due to elevation and exertion levels and such.

**Guessing, but I suspect I only get 8-10 in dusty conditions. I don't use any of the drip waxes so I am swapping chains. As they "dry out"(?) I start to hear and even feel a difference when I think it's time. Very unscientific.

I used viscous drip oils every few rides for years leading up to wax. While the chain stayed 'quiet' longer it was gathering internal grit and making the abrasive compound folks describe. I would wipe down the chain, drip each roller, let penetrate, and then backpedal extensively into a gripped t-shirt to remove excess from the exterior/rings/pulleys.

Removing and flushing the chain with solvent showed me how much fine particulate was making its way inside.

That's not happening with wax, probably less than 1/100th, and I spend close to no time on my chains and zero on the cogs or rings now. Kinda boggles my mind. I'm thoroughly hooked.