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road link and campy
anyone have tried a wolf tooth road link with campy?
I am going to put a 11-36 cassette in the back. I had a subcompact with a 32T in the back, was great. 1 to 1. But now on this bike i have a compact and a 32T and would love some lower gearing. Have a mid cage potenza in the back which could probably deal fine with a 34T cassette but decided why not go one further and put a 36. I will have 2 wheels on this bike, road wheel will still have a 32T cassette because I want to keep the gears tigher in the low end, and just will not need the big cassette. The question is, can I leave the road link on the bike? or will I have to remove it when going from a 36T cassete back down to a 32T? |
#2
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Quote:
Road link isn't magic; it's basically a drop bolt for derailleurs, to move them down to make room for a larger rear sprocket. That deviation from the optimized position has got to have some associated cost in terms of sub-optimal performance. The cost may be small and the benefit of the larger sprocket may be great enough to make it all worthwhile -- we pretty much have to assume Wolf Tooth knows its business too -- but incurring the cost of moving the derailleur to a sub-optimal position without any corresponding benefit (i.e., using the smaller large sprocket without moving the derailleur back to the position chosen to be optimum for that sprocket) doesn't make any sense to me. |
#3
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Yes it works.
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#4
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#5
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Not sure if this is super relevant, but here's my long cage 10 speed record, road link, 11-40t sunrace cassette. This particular set up actually shifted OK.
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#6
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Yes, but it fails to address the OP's question. It's not surprising it works OK -- Wolf Tooth does seem to know its business, after all -- but the question is, if you removed that wheel and substituted one with the original 11-32 cassette, how would it shift then?
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#7
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thank you. Good to know it works but would love to know how well does it work?
Specially Lionels setup since its closer to what my setup will be. 11 speed campy. What size cassette is on there? |
#8
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11spd is best because of closeness of pull ratios. What palincss is saying about "optimization" shouldn't discourage you. You can still set b-tension with a roadlink to have the pulleys in their optimal position. Depending on the size of your chainrings up front, I wouldn't be surprised if a campy med cage 11 cleared an 11-36 without a roadlink.
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#9
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SRAM 11-36. It works well. Not as crisp as without it and a proper campy cassette but good enough to not worry about it at all.
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#10
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thank you. same cassette I bought I bet, the 1170. Good to know it works good enough. Will set it up in the next few weeks. |
#11
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please come back and let us know how it goes! i can always use a lower gear ratio.
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#12
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All parts have been purchased so maybe I will get it working during xmas break and report back
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#13
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As long as it gets from gear to gear and stays aligned when in that gear, I don't care how slowly it shifts...it's not like these are crit-racing setups, or being shifted under a 500W load in a rotating paceline...
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Io non posso vivere senza la mia strada e la mia bici -- DP |
#14
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I tried to put one on today with a Campy Chorus 11 RD. I couldn't get the shifting dialed in to my liking, so I took it off after trying for about 30 min. I was surprised because I have had it work like a champ on an Ultegra 6800 RD before.
Last edited by fa63; 12-08-2018 at 07:37 PM. |
#15
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Quote:
just saw this youtube video, I might not even need the road link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hpjr7gX1vFc I also am probably going to go 46-34 on the crank but that guy has a compact and says its working perfectly. |
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