Through axles for dummies?

[cachagua]

I've got a disc cross bike with QR. I can flex the fork when standing to make the rotor hit the pads.

Can you *not* do this with the same fork in through-axle version? With a different QR fork? Et cetera, et cetera.

In other words, can the benefits ascribed to through-axle be definitively isolated to through-axle.

Not that I'm an opponent, I just know how hard it is to be certain about practically anything on your bike.

[MaraudingWalrus]

Originally Posted by ntb1001

This....

I guess any fork mount rack is obsolete.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

There are adapters out there. Maybe $35-50 depending on how nice of one you want. Think RockyMounts makes one that's the most universal of the various options.

[jimoots]

Originally Posted by eBAUMANN

What would you say are the "kinks" that exist for road disc that dont/didnt for mtb/cx?

Besides the industry-standard kink of having too many damn "standards"... I cant really see them evolving all that far from the current DA/eTap flat-mount forms.
T-A's were ironed out long before they came to CX (let alone road) bikes...then they were unnecessarily f*cked with in the name of "innovation" because the industry has to find a way to make a buck...

T-A are great. QR's work fine, yes, but T-A are just a bit fine-er.

The key issue with road disc is the tight tolerances at the pad/disc and lack of adjustability (or crude forms of adjustability) which results in “pinging” - or brake pad hitting warped disc syndrome.

On MTB and cx there’s so much going on that it’s not noticeable or a big deal.

On the road it’s more significant and annoying.

It doesn’t happen on all disc bikes but it does happen. Enough for a pal in the biz to comment that it’s the new press fit BB; he has some fun explaining to customers who’ve just lashed $10k on the latest and greatest that their pads are hitting the rotor and “that’s just how it is”.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Originally Posted by jimmy-moots

The key issue with road disc is the tight tolerances at the pad/disc and lack of adjustability (or crude forms of adjustability) which results in “pinging” - or brake pad hitting warped disc syndrome.

On MTB and cx there’s so much going on that it’s not noticeable or a big deal.

On the road it’s more significant and annoying.

It doesn’t happen on all disc bikes but it does happen. Enough for a pal in the biz to comment that it’s the new press fit BB; he has some fun explaining to customers who’ve just lashed $10k on the latest and greatest that their pads are hitting the rotor and “that’s just how it is”.

Can you cite some specific examples? This sounds like complete misinformation.

[GonaSovereign]

Originally Posted by eBAUMANN

For me, the dust settled a long time ago (as far as T-A's are concerned) on 15mm front and 142x12mm rear.

Agreed.

(And I wish it ended there.)

But then is your front 15mm DT, Magura, Fox, Maxle, Rock Shox, and which thread pitch? Which thread length. Standard or boost?

And then your back 142. Is that boost or not? Syntace x-12, x-12 boost, Maxle, Maxle boost, maxle ABP/ABP Boost, Shimano E-thru, etc.

It's a clusterF that makes the BB situation seem normal.

...but I quite like my 15mm DT front, X-12 rear, for what it's worth.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Thru axle compatibility is only difficult or cumbersome if you allow it to be. Once you mate the axle to your frame or fork you're done. Pretty simple. If it's beyond you just take it to an LBS, have them tell you and then write it down somewhere. Keep a note in your phone or your wallet or something, I dunno.

[William]

Originally Posted by jimmy-moots

The key issue with road disc is the tight tolerances at the pad/disc and lack of adjustability (or crude forms of adjustability) which results in “pinging” - or brake pad hitting warped disc syndrome.

On MTB and cx there’s so much going on that it’s not noticeable or a big deal.

On the road it’s more significant and annoying.

It doesn’t happen on all disc bikes but it does happen. Enough for a pal in the biz to comment that it’s the new press fit BB; he has some fun explaining to customers who’ve just lashed $10k on the latest and greatest that their pads are hitting the rotor and “that’s just how it is”.

It occasionally happens on the front wheel of my MTB and it annoys the crap out of me. I have to take tension of the QR, reset, and then it may be okay for a while before it starts up again. Don't get me wrong, I like the discs but I hate the rub.





William

[jimoots]

Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd

Can you cite some specific examples? This sounds like complete misinformation.

Ummmmm... ask anyone who’s spent more than a short period of time with a bike with discs.

Google road bike disc brake rubbing etc. It’s “normal”.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Originally Posted by jimmy-moots

Ummmmm... ask anyone who’s spent more than a short period of time with a bike with discs.

Google road bike disc brake rubbing etc. It’s “normal”.

I've spent more than a short period of time with disc brakes. I don't understand what you're suggesting is the issue if it's not poor setup or rotors that are out of true.

You said that road calipers have less clearance than MTB calipers. Where did you get that info?

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd

Can you cite some specific examples? This sounds like complete misinformation.

Snick, snick, snick of rotor on some disc brakes? Hardly misinformation.

[eBAUMANN]

Originally Posted by jimmy-moots

Ummmmm... ask anyone who’s spent more than a short period of time with a bike with discs.

Google road bike disc brake rubbing etc. It’s “normal”.

Its only normal if your brakes arent adjusted properly or your rotor is out of true or un-evenly torqued (if 6-bolt).
Also might be an issue caused by alignment issues between caliper and frame mounting points/adaptors, which can all be faced with the proper tools.
You can also add conical washers to the whole arrangement to further dial in the angle of the caliper should the pinging persist.

I ride my cx bike as a road bike for about 1/3 of the year (the winter/spring) and its exactly as quiet as any caliper-braked bike I own.

[jimoots]

Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd

I've spent more than a short period of time with disc brakes. I don't understand what you're suggesting is the issue if it's not poor setup or rotors that are out of true.

You said that road calipers have less clearance than MTB calipers. Where did you get that info?

Same clearances on road and MTB. Which are tight. On both.

The headaches I’ve had addressing the issues of discs don’t happen with a rim brake. Rotors warping temperamentally, tolerances tightening with heat, etc.

And hey, if you’re having fun with it, cool. But I’ve got a couple of bikes (and a few more I no longer own) here that are well set up that will intermittently make noises that they shouldn’t.

[ergott]

Rotor choice can go a long way towards keeping things quiet. A stiff aluminium carrier is morely likely to keep rotor true. There are also floating rotors, but I haven't tried them.

I've found Ice Tech rotors to be silent even after years of use.

[eBAUMANN]

Originally Posted by ergott

Rotor choice can go a long way towards keeping things quiet. A stiff aluminium carrier is morely likely to keep rotor true. There are also floating rotors, but I haven't tried them.

I've found Ice Tech rotors to be silent even after years of use.

i used hope floating rotors for a bit 2 cx seasons ago...was not overly impressed...kinda noisey...but likely not a problem inherent with the design, just the particular material/pattern/conditions these ones were subject to.

been using sram centerline and various icetech/freeza rotors ever since, no issues to report.