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  #31  
Old 06-17-2018, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikej View Post
Is it currently vented from the soffits to the ridge? That would be first. Can you cut ou the wall and I install a window? That would be second. The hot air has to be able to get out when the outside air is pushed in. Otherwise- convection as noted earlier-
There are both soffit & ridge vents.
The house & garage are both brick. I don't believe I have the tools/skills/etc to cut through that & can't afford to pay someone to do it. Many times I've wished I had a window/door in another wall.
Whatever I end up doing, it has to be done by me (no labor $) and the supplies/materials have to be relatively low cost.

Last edited by Red Tornado; 06-17-2018 at 08:32 AM.
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  #32  
Old 06-17-2018, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by AngryScientist View Post
make an opening in the attic for a good sized louver vent. then install a very large exhaust fan in the ceiling that will suck air from the open doors and out through the attic. a good sized fan will provide enough airflow through the place to keep it cool.
Not sure that's a good idea. A small Fire will spread very fast as its like a chimney.
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  #33  
Old 06-17-2018, 08:48 AM
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What's your budget? Mitsubishi..have one in my house, spectacular.
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  #34  
Old 06-17-2018, 09:31 AM
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What's your budget? Mitsubishi..have one in my house, spectacular.
Hadn't thought about one of those. What do they cost? Do they make different sizes (i.e. one for small spaces)? Guessing I'm looking at maybe drilling through the wall for electrical/other? Speaking of electrical, any idea what kind of power they use? Probably would still want to improve and/or add insulation to help.
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  #35  
Old 06-17-2018, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Red Tornado View Post
Hadn't thought about one of those. What do they cost? Do they make different sizes (i.e. one for small spaces)? Guessing I'm looking at maybe drilling through the wall for electrical/other? Speaking of electrical, any idea what kind of power they use? Probably would still want to improve and/or add insulation to help.
Mine was $3500 installed, lots of labor tho(about 6 hours, one guy)..need to set up plumbing from a compressor outside..like any A/C..just only one outlet for cool air. I think they make them for different sq foot areas..BTU output stuff. Power..220 pretty sure but not really...Mine quiet, efficient and you make ice cubes in the room where it is(if ya set it low enough)...

http://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/products

http://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/pro...ounted/compare

Mine is cool only..
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Last edited by oldpotatoe; 06-17-2018 at 09:37 AM.
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  #36  
Old 06-17-2018, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by AngryScientist View Post
make an opening in the attic for a good sized louver vent. then install a very large exhaust fan in the ceiling that will suck air from the open doors and out through the attic. a good sized fan will provide enough airflow through the place to keep it cool.

if you want to spend more $$, a ductless mitsubishi AC system is the way to go. these rely on a unit inside the garage to circulate cool air, and a unit outside with the compressor/cpndensor. they transfer heat through small piping and fluid. no ducts in the garage necessary.
That’s a mini-split air conditioner, in very wide use in Mexico. Not expensive easy to target a specific area, very quiet, easy to install, cheap and efficient to run.

We have a 1-ton (12,000btu) mini-split in our bedroom in Los Barriles, a 20 X 30 cinderblock two story in full sun most of the day. That along with a ceiling fan keeps us nicely cool day or night. We’re located nearly dead on the Tropic of Cancer, so the sun is directly overhead pretty much all the time.

Additionally: go to Home Depot/Loews etc to find your local pricing. If you have a small space a 1-ton unit will work well, along with a ceiling fan. (See my bedroom description above) A 1-ton runs on 115v and pretty easy to plumb.

Last edited by dave thompson; 06-17-2018 at 11:42 AM.
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  #37  
Old 06-17-2018, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Tornado View Post
My garage is also my workshop/bike shop. In the summer it gets like an oven. Looking for ways to cool it or at least get some air flow. Only have the overhead door and man door leading into the house. No other exterior doors or windows (unfortunately). Bringing a.c. from the house isn't an option right now. Been thinking about replacing the 2 ceiling light fixtures with ceiling fans. Also thought about getting an industrial free-standing fan & putting it in one corner.
Looking for opinions on these, or other alternatives.

Sounds like house and garage are connected? Access through door or garage door? One or two car garage? Is your work area near the door into the house?






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  #38  
Old 06-17-2018, 12:22 PM
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If you can find a way to afford it, a mini split air to air heat exchanger will pay for itself over time. A refinement on the fan suggestion: If you have any headroom to work with, look at Big Ass fans. Really, that’s the brand. The idea is a large diameter fan moving slowly, but circulating a lot of air.
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  #39  
Old 06-17-2018, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 572cv View Post
If you can find a way to afford it, a mini split air to air heat exchanger will pay for itself over time. A refinement on the fan suggestion: If you have any headroom to work with, look at Big Ass fans. Really, that’s the brand. The idea is a large diameter fan moving slowly, but circulating a lot of air.
+1. They are local to us. You might need a BIG space tough. Most of their applications are for large commercial spaces where the low speed high diameter is the best option.
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  #40  
Old 06-17-2018, 01:26 PM
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Just a thought...

Mini-splits are great, but if that isn't in the cards...

Depending on space and layout, and if you are a DIY type of guy, frame in an "L" Shaped wall to close off a corner, or a single wall across a section of the garage. Then either open the door into the house and use a fan to blow cool air in when you are working in the shop area. Or install a window AC unit in the wall facing the garage door and use it to cool the area when you are in it.

You can rough it in and use plywood or you can sheet rock, mud, and paint depending on how finished you want it. A lot of options on doors, or just get what's on sale/clearance or even re-claimed. It's not that hard and not that expensive if you do it yourself.









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  #41  
Old 06-17-2018, 01:32 PM
djdj djdj is offline
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A very simple, temporary solution would be to prop a fan in the doorway from the house into the garage.
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  #42  
Old 06-17-2018, 04:06 PM
Peter P. Peter P. is offline
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I'm guessing the OP doesn't have a basement to work out of during the warm months.

Below grade temps are usually much cooler, without the expense of climate control.
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  #43  
Old 06-17-2018, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter P. View Post
I'm guessing the OP doesn't have a basement to work out of during the warm months.

Below grade temps are usually much cooler, without the expense of climate control.
Lived in the Dallas area for about 15 years. Homes with basements are virtually nonexistent, although I visited some nicer homes build before WWII with full below grade basements. Builders claim this is not practical currently for a number of reasons. These don't prevent it from being done in other parts of the country.

http://keranews.org/post/why-are-the...ts-north-texas
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  #44  
Old 06-17-2018, 07:27 PM
Ken Robb Ken Robb is offline
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Originally Posted by nickl View Post
Lived in the Dallas area for about 15 years. Homes with basements are virtually nonexistent, although I visited some nicer homes build before WWII with full below grade basements. Builders claim this is not practical currently for a number of reasons. These don't prevent it from being done in other parts of the country.

http://keranews.org/post/why-are-the...ts-north-texas
There are VERY few in SoCal. It may have something to do with expansive clay soil. I have been in some pre-WWII homes with small below-grade rooms just big enough for a gravity-feed furnace and maybe a water heater.
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  #45  
Old 06-17-2018, 08:47 PM
nickl nickl is offline
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Originally Posted by Ken Robb View Post
There are VERY few in SoCal. It may have something to do with expansive clay soil. I have been in some pre-WWII homes with small below-grade rooms just big enough for a gravity-feed furnace and maybe a water heater.
As stated in the article from the previous post, stab foundations are not a solution to clay soil. That condition also exist in many northern areas where full basements are the norm.

Last edited by nickl; 06-17-2018 at 08:50 PM.
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