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  #16  
Old 06-22-2020, 10:21 AM
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paredown paredown is offline
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I'd love to start with the Cinelli Nemo Tig that for sale in the Classifieds and build a go-fast machine.
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  #17  
Old 06-22-2020, 10:27 AM
mtechnica mtechnica is offline
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How about this...

Caad 10 or 12 rim brake frame
Ultegra
Hollowgram cranks
Zondas with 25c gp5000
Carbon post bars stem
36/52 and 11-32

You said you wanted to go fast right? Don’t sabotage yourself with a heavy or flexy frame imo.
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  #18  
Old 06-22-2020, 10:28 AM
vincenz vincenz is offline
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Go-fast group ride metal bike on crappy roads with lot of up means: steel frame with bigger stays, rim brake, 52/36 in front and up to 28-30 in the back, and very light carbon wheels with 25mm tires max, probably tubular.
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  #19  
Old 06-22-2020, 10:30 AM
XXtwindad XXtwindad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiamme red View Post
I'm a mere mortal, and am seriously in awe of anyone who can push a 50 x 9 (147 gear inches). But I wonder why anyone who can push that gear would need a 36t cog.
That’s where gearing on a race bike becomes interesting. I suffer on the steeper climbs, but on the “false flats” my build is much more conducive to mashing the pedals.
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  #20  
Old 06-22-2020, 10:31 AM
prototoast prototoast is online now
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My current "go fast" metal bike:

1) Steel, columbus spirit
2) 28 mm tires
3) 50/34, 11-28 gearing
4) rim brake

If I were going to design a new one, I'd probably go with:

1) titanium
2) 28 mm tires
3) probably still 50/34, 11-28 gearing, but maybe a 52/36, 11-32
4) rim brake
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  #21  
Old 06-22-2020, 10:33 AM
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biker72 biker72 is offline
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A) Something Titanium
B) 30c
C) 50/34 in front and a 12-34 in back
D) discs
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  #22  
Old 06-22-2020, 10:34 AM
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fiamme red fiamme red is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXtwindad View Post
That’s where gearing on a race bike becomes interesting. I suffer on the steeper climbs, but on the “false flats” my build is much more conducive to mashing the pedals.
Unless you're drafting trucks at 60 mph, a 50 x 9 is completely unusable. Same for a 50 x 10.
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  #23  
Old 06-22-2020, 10:37 AM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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I keep up on fast group rides with my 1985 Colnago. So I'd say there are gazillion bikes really.

So I can honestly say the go fast part of the equation is an easy part, as it is mostly up to your physiology really.

The fun starts, you can pretty much steer your purchase/build lust into baller territory and mean looks.

But a truly 'go fast' capable machine may wait for you to have the chutzbah to actually use it to it's potential.

Buying used even better, as rim brake road go fast machines are deal city out there with ALL Road and Gravel taking market share currently.

I have a great All Road Strong Custom, and a 650b Lynskey Gravel Mongrel. Fast group ride, 1985 Colnago SLX pulled from the quiver. 11s Chorus resto-mod and 404s, granted.

But IMO, until you are fit enough to ride with 9CM+ of drop and setback a superdiduper go fast machine probably is not going to be a pleasant experience to roll for long.

So careful what you wish for.


>>I guess I am less clear on the line of demarcation for go fast road and just how much bumpy cruddy blasting desired to cover. That could sway direction an awful lot in itself.
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Last edited by robt57; 06-22-2020 at 10:53 AM.
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  #24  
Old 06-22-2020, 10:44 AM
edward12 edward12 is offline
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Here's mine. It has 32mm tires in the pic. It will fit up to 35mm. I prefer medium-reach brakes (I rarely ride in wet, muddy conditions). The crankset is a Praxis 48/32 with a 11-30 in the back. The frame itself has conventional road geometry. It's a great all-rounder.
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  #25  
Old 06-22-2020, 10:50 AM
thirdgenbird thirdgenbird is offline
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If fast is the main goal:
Allez sprint
Ee brakes
25mm tires
53/39 11-29 Record 12 (52/36 if really hilly)

Realistically, this is fast enough (but I’m not)


32mm tires (will probably drop down to 30 next time)
52/36 11-29 (second wheelset with 11-34)

Last edited by thirdgenbird; 06-22-2020 at 11:17 AM.
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  #26  
Old 06-22-2020, 11:02 AM
colker colker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXtwindad View Post
That could keep pace on a fast(er) group ride over terrain varying from smooth asphalt to really crappy roads with lots of climbing and descending ...

A) what material would you choose? Steel or Ti?
B) what tire width?
C) what gearing?
D) rim or discs?

My version of that question will be

A) a double oversized Columbus Spirit frame
B) 30c
C) 50/34 in front and a 9-36 in back
D) discs

I realize that “D” might engender all kinds of rehashed arguments, but I’m just interested in people’s opinions, not their opinions about other people’s choices. That gets kind of tired.
That cassette svcks. I want as little jump as possible in my gears: a climbing wheel and a flat wheel w/ different gears each is what i need.
A go fast bike should be aluminium.
I would ride 700x25 tires.

Edit: i didn´t even think about the brakes.
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  #27  
Old 06-22-2020, 11:07 AM
72gmc 72gmc is offline
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Up to 30c, rim brakes, metal of choice, compact road gearing with a tight 12-25ish cassette, lots of core work.
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  #28  
Old 06-22-2020, 11:10 AM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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If you are trained you can go with those guys in a 70's mixte and the guys wont drop you. In the opposite side, if you arent trained at all no matter if you have a bike made of air, the guys will drop you. So just out of the bat you have to weight in that situation. Personally have fast bikes, but i do not train so riders drop me or have to wait for me

As for the request, now a days you can get a high end EM for 500 bucks for the frame, put any group in it and pick your choice of 23 - 27 mm tires.

Many times no matter the tubing, just go with something that by default will go fast, like EM's and De rosas for example.

Last edited by ultraman6970; 06-22-2020 at 11:13 AM.
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  #29  
Old 06-22-2020, 11:12 AM
Clean39T Clean39T is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXtwindad View Post
That could keep pace on a fast(er) group ride over terrain varying from smooth asphalt to really crappy roads with lots of climbing and descending ...
First, as others said, is to be in good enough shape to assume a fast position on a bike - getting low and forward will do more for your aero position and conversion of power to speed than wheels or a frame.

Second, learn how to ride efficiently in a group - maybe that's first - so many Wattz get lost with inefficient riding. This is everything from sag climbing, to reading when things will string out and bunch up, how to stay in a wheel when it matters, etc.

Third, matching the compliance and handling of your tires, wheels, and frame to the terrain and surfaces you ride most frequently. If you have smooth pavement, no climbs and no wind, that's a different equation to solve than chip-seal, lots of climbs and lots of side-winds. If you have mix, you'll have to accept some tradeoffs, and probably land in the middle.

Fourth, look at aero gains from your clothing, helmet, shoes - and then wheels, handlebars, and frame.

Fifth, decide how much the marginal gains are worth to you relative to the dollar investment.

My choice?

An oversized steel frameset with a good fork, long stem, shorter TT, low front end, 25c tires, wider rims, mix of wheels for windy/calm or dry/wet days, tight kit, and tight gear range with a bailout for the inevitable (36/52 and 11/29).
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  #30  
Old 06-22-2020, 11:14 AM
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fiamme red fiamme red is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colker View Post
That cassette svcks. I want as little jump as possible in my gears: a climbing wheel and a flat wheel w/ different gears each is what i need.
Yes, if you're trying to keep up with a fast group that gearing is totally absurd. You want a tight cassette, with one-tooth jumps between cogs. And if you think that you need a 50 x 9 or 50 x 10, you need to learn how to spin, not mash.
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