Single speed , drop bars and long distance riding/climbing?

[AngryScientist]

Originally Posted by accordvsick

Which moots frame model is this?

special order ssfg pschylo-x

[Joel]

I'm a fan of simplicity on all of this.

Have a steel Bianchi Pista - 55 square, chrome version.

Drop bars.

Fixed gear. 46x18.

Front Brake.

Water bottle, pump, bag.

Pretty light, bullet proof, and gets a ton of use.

Joel

[ColonelJLloyd]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

I'm not clear what you mean by that? the seatpost above though is an eriksen sweetpost with about 20mm or setback.

Saddle setback being the distance from the front tip of the saddle from an imaginary vertical line that runs through the center of the BB shell. It's independent of the STA and seat post design, but may be affected by the type of saddle (such as the newer snub nose types). Your Moots looks like the front of the saddle would be forward of that vertical line. I'm not suggesting that's wrong for you or anyone else, just curious if it was indeed the case.

You often see suspended leather saddles slammed as far back as possible even on 20mm setback posts because their rail position is a bit different than "modern" saddles. A lot of folks need 25-30mm setback posts when using Brooks saddles; Rivet and Berthoud have a bit more useable rail position typically.

[accordvsick]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

special order ssfg pschylo-x

That will blow away my budget lol....nice!

[accordvsick]

Anyone familiar with China Carbon frames? Looks like there are some cheap options.

https://www.dhgate.com/product/2019-...hoCXXEQAvD_BwE

[smead]

Cheap is the key word there.

For your budget, I would recommend checking ebay for Langsters. There are always a bunch for sale in your price range. You will get a solid fixed gear frame with a conventional BB, track dropouts, drilled fork for a brake, water bottle bosses, and a pretty standard road geometry well suited to road riding and hill climbing. Those frames are not boat anchors either - I have a 2005 Langster built up to 13.75 lbs. with pedals and cage, ready to ride.

[joevers]

I've never heard of BB86 on a track bike. I've got nothing against carbon (I have two currently!) and nothing against products made in China, but I'd stay far away from carbon at that price point. The State Undefeated frames are going to be way higher quality and probably the best bang for your buck if your shooting for weight on a budget. Used Mash frames are good weight for the price too, and the currently hard to find Dolan DB3, or much easier to find and more affordable Dolan Pre Cursa.

[rustychisel]

Originally Posted by smead

Cheap is the key word there.

For your budget, I would recommend checking ebay for Langsters. There are always a bunch for sale in your price range. You will get a solid fixed gear frame with a conventional BB, track dropouts, drilled fork for a brake, water bottle bosses, and a pretty standard road geometry well suited to road riding and hill climbing. Those frames are not boat anchors either - I have a 2005 Langster built up to 13.75 lbs. with pedals and cage, ready to ride.

Excellent response. Key aspects bolded for truth.

For riding fixed or SS on the road over distances greater than 20 miles or so, do not buy a track frame. A conventional BB is a good idea, it allows the most possibilities, and allows hassle free engineering.

No bottle bosses is a big minus for distance riding. Put simply, you need 'em. At least two.

Frame geometry is paramount. Critical. From height of BB to reach, stack, seat tube angle, everything. Especially with a fixed gear bike if you cannot get comfortable you cannot ride distances. Also, s**t is likely to go wrong, and when s**t goes wrong on a fixed it happens quickly... think losing hand position on your one brake lever when you hit a bump going downhill and your legs are already doing 160.

[muz]

Originally Posted by rustychisel

Especially with a fixed gear bike if you cannot get comfortable you cannot ride distances. Also, s**t is likely to go wrong, and when s**t goes wrong on a fixed it happens quickly... think losing hand position on your one brake lever when you hit a bump going downhill and your legs are already doing 160.

Absolutely. Stability, fit and comfort are paramount, and in that order. A lighter bike will save you seconds on a climb, a stable bike with wider tires could save your life when you hit that pothole at night, while descending a steep grade after riding all day. Remember, no bunny hops or even posting on the pedals!

Here are the two bikes I did PBP on. On the Co-Motion, I have also done sub 7 hour 200K, sub 16 hour 400K (fast times for me), and a 400K with 15k ft of climbing on the first day of a 1200K. In contrast, I built up this Specialized as a pandemic project; it's sub 15 lbs and a blast to ride, but I am not taking it on an all day ride.

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[farmerjosh]

Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd

Terminology is somewhat important. Note the difference between horizontal dropouts and track ends (not the same thing).
I bought a 2004 Gunnar Street Dog (road geo, track ends, mid-reach brakes) this summer and built it up with a steel fork, nice components and handbuilt wheels and I really, really dig it.

Untitled by ColonelJLloyd, on Flickr

Untitled by ColonelJLloyd, on Flickr

Speaking of street dogs:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gunnar-Stre...sAAOSw7dZgCOFB

I don't know if OP ever posted their preferred bike size but this one looks well loved. Which means it's fun.

[Bici-Sonora]

Originally Posted by muz

Absolutely. Stability, fit and comfort are paramount, and in that order. A lighter bike will save you seconds on a climb, a stable bike with wider tires could save your life when you hit that pothole at night, while descending a steep grade after riding all day. Remember, no bunny hops or even posting on the pedals!

Here are the two bikes I did PBP on. On the Co-Motion, I have also done sub 7 hour 200K, sub 16 hour 400K (fast times for me), and a 400K with 15k ft of climbing on the first day of a 1200K. In contrast, I built up this Specialized as a pandemic project; it's sub 15 lbs and a blast to ride, but I am not taking it on an all day ride.

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I’m impressed and love that Co-motion. What gearing did you run at PBP?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ColonelJLloyd]

Regarding the eBay Street Dog, the auction doesn't say but that particular one may be from the period where these used short reach brakes. I thought it was only the early Waterfords that used a 27.4mm seatpost (I assume the auction description is a typo and 27.4 was intended) but this is not an early Street Dog.

[muz]

Originally Posted by Bici-Sonora

I’m impressed and love that Co-motion. What gearing did you run at PBP?

I used 49x18, could have gone a bit taller but always safer to err on the easier side. As I get tired, I would rather brake on descents than to have to walk up hills. I also didn't want to change from my the gearing I used all year, and it's a bit hillier here in the Bay area. I used 47x18 the first time (on the Landshark).

[Pegoready]

@muz damn that Co-Motion is stellar! Perfect bike in my opinion... great dimensions, steel fork, couplers, quill stem, Record cranks, gum hooded TRP levers, cool cool cool!

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by accordvsick

Anyone familiar with China Carbon frames? Looks like there are some cheap options.

https://www.dhgate.com/product/2019-...hoCXXEQAvD_BwE

Might look here..Mark Hickey, good guy. He has a HDO(Horizontal Dropout Option)

https://www.habcycles.com/road.html