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If you were building a “go fast” metal road bike...
That could keep pace on a fast(er) group ride over terrain varying from smooth asphalt to really crappy roads with lots of climbing and descending ...
A) what material would you choose? Steel or Ti? B) what tire width? C) what gearing? D) rim or discs? My version of that question will be A) a double oversized Columbus Spirit frame B) 30c C) 50/34 in front and a 9-36 in back D) discs I realize that “D” might engender all kinds of rehashed arguments, but I’m just interested in people’s opinions, not their opinions about other people’s choices. That gets kind of tired. |
#2
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__________________
http://less-than-epic.blogspot.com/ |
#3
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Marginal gains
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Marc Sasso A part of the resin revolution! |
#4
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Best thing to “go fast” is to get fit. The second best thing is develop skillls to go fast. A bike will not help you go fast. A structured training program will. But if you still desire a shortcut or give the look that you go fast while not riding the bike then get a pair of carbon aerowheels. I feel that is the best upgrade you can do to a bike to go faster.
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***IG: mttamgrams*** |
#5
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I think this might be my pick: https://www.instagram.com/p/CBtzIs7A..._web_copy_link
Beautiful and looks fast n light and looks like a joy to ride. Screenshot for those not on IG |
#6
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I would put a mid compact on the bike. Never heard of a 9-36, and wouldn’t want one anyway. Use a standard Shimano group, mid compact or compact if you live in the mtns. An 11-34 covers the range nicely.
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#7
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My steel Alliance does that perfectly now. Erik’s geometry and lower BB centers the rider so well that you can just rip through stuff and rail downhills. I’m expecting my new Ti Alliance to do the same. I’m going with rim brake though.
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#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Ti will be lighter in weight but nothing rides like steel. If it were me I'd go with rim brakes.
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#10
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I would pick an aluminum frame for starters.
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#11
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Actually, I'd go with "D" before I went with "A", "B", or "C".
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#12
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I'm a mere mortal, and am seriously in awe of anyone who can push a 50 x 9 (147 gear inches). But I wonder why anyone who can push that gear would need a 36t cog.
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It don't mean a thing, if it ain't got that certain je ne sais quoi. --Peter Schickele |
#13
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Nate And Rob
Frame builder Nate Zukas does custom steel and aluminum (he may do Ti, check Zukas Cycles). I like his style, he races himself and his curved seat stays and shaped aluminum downtube makes for a sharp looking performer.
I would go aluminum frame, current popular rim size (and probably deep carbon for looks mostly, honestly), a double ring standard in gearing and disc brakes. My other go fast builder of metal is Rob English (English Cycles). I would either go for his steel/carbon or straight steel, either way he can make a steel frame a viable fast option IMO. And copy/paste the rest from above |
#14
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Plan B in alloy: Last edited by FlashUNC; 06-22-2020 at 10:28 AM. |
#15
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Quote:
That's the intent of my Built...a proper go-fast road bike with some versatility because it is my only road bike. To that end, a 52 or 50T gives a selection of high-enough paceline gears while an 11-32 accesses the lower range. For wheels, I have a set of mid-depth wheels with 27s for the fast rides and a set of low-profile rims with plump FMB 30s for all other paved riding. That the frame is stiff in the right places but comfortable overall was a priority that led me to the specific builder. Last edited by sparky33; 06-22-2020 at 10:36 AM. |
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