Suggest a spray degreaser for sealed bearing cartridges?

[Peter P.]

Originally Posted by mokofoko

Never tried phil grease for sealed cartridges--...?

From the Phil Wood website:

"Our Standard bearings are an extremely high quality stainless steel cartridge bearing with a 100% Phil Waterproof Grease fill..."

Coincidence: Today I ordered new bearings from Phil Wood for my cassette hub.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by mokofoko

Thanks, have a followup on the grease topic since you mentioned it.

Thoughts on Phil vs Park for sealed cartridges? Park is thinner, but heard lots of stories of people ruining their bearings (rusted/pitted due to moisture, contamination, etc). With Phil Wood grease though, it's plenty thick so might not be the best choice for sealed cartridges, especially if you really pack it in? As much as I love Phil Woods longevity, introducing drag is no fun. Never tried phil grease for sealed cartridges--did it work well for you?

Grease is 'oil in soap'..any grease will do fine. I prefer a lighter color so you can see when it's dirty. Any draggy issues are lost in the noise..Only place you will 'feel' that is spinning axle in the our hand..you won't 'feel' anything when riding.
PLUS, "Bike" grease is more expensive cuz it's 'bike' grease.
I get a 500g tub of white lithium and 500g tub of blue 'boat' grease and mix 50-50..pretty light blue color, really inexpensive..good enough for a car or boat, good enough for a bike hub.

Can't really use too much grease..if some ooozes out, good seal from outside crud..

[mokofoko]

Originally Posted by Peter P.

From the Phil Wood website:

"Our Standard bearings are an extremely high quality stainless steel cartridge bearing with a 100% Phil Waterproof Grease fill..."

Coincidence: Today I ordered new bearings from Phil Wood for my cassette hub.

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Grease is 'oil in soap'..any grease will do fine. I prefer a lighter color so you can see when it's dirty. Any draggy issues are lost in the noise..Only place you will 'feel' that is spinning axle in the our hand..you won't 'feel' anything when riding.
PLUS, "Bike" grease is more expensive cuz it's 'bike' grease.
I get a 500g tub of white lithium and 500g tub of blue 'boat' grease and mix 50-50..pretty light blue color, really inexpensive..good enough for a car or boat, good enough for a bike hub.

Can't really use too much grease..if some ooozes out, good seal from outside crud..

I ended up going with the phil wood grease I had onhand--and packed it tight. After a week or two of riding things freed up nicely--I could tell a good amount must have worked itself outside the seals.

I've been reading enough that I believe you when you say that bike grease is just grease and nothing special. That said, stick me in the "fool" category for electing to pay the exorbitant rates for the bike-branded stuff. I just don't use the stuff in enough volume to impact the wallet much. It is nice to just grab a tube and go...

[oldguy00]

Did anyone else ever have a tub of this stuff?
Was like a religious experience packing a new campy bottom bracket with this stuff back in the day (so for me, like '89/'90)...

[mokofoko]

Quick followup question for future work. After doing further research, it seems like electrical contact cleaners are the best option for future jobs--seems there are no real downsides to it aside from price.

The brake cleaner option dries clean, but isn't safe for paint (?) and will potentially damage rubber seals if used in copious amounts.

Carb/choke cleaner (which I used this time) is really effective (especially the red chlorinated type!), but is apparently unsafe for both paint and plastics. Plus it leaves behind some lubricant--not good.

Most of the good/expensive electrical contact cleaner options (see previous page) are mainly available in specialty stores, and about the only thing I could find locally is this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-...Wt-Oz/16817418
Has anyone tried it for bike jobs covering plastics/paint?

Would this be in any way superior? (only other option I could find locally at a big box store)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-1...30-6/202262505
Also saw this on the shelf at HD. Packaging says it leaves no residue, but every WD product I've ever used seemingly left behind some kind of lubrication:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SP...0055/307599950

[Ozz]

Originally Posted by mokofoko

I'm about to degrease and repack the cartridges in some Campy Bullet hubs (rear axle spins a bit gritty by hand with any sort of preload), and I'm having trouble picking out a spray degreaser. I prefer Finish Line Speed Degreaser, but with many bike shops currently closed, it's not an option......

I know it is not on your list of purchase locations, but I just bought a 3 pack via Amazon.

REI sometimes carries it as well...

[mokofoko]

Originally Posted by Ozz

I know it is not on your list of purchase locations, but I just bought a 3 pack via Amazon.

REI sometimes carries it as well...

I think I saw that, but I'm all about the instant gratification--I want stuff, and I want it now (even if I have to drive all over town).

Wish there was an REI close by. My favorite B&M store. They really need to consider opening more locations.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by oldguy00

Did anyone else ever have a tub of this stuff?
Was like a religious experience packing a new campy bottom bracket with this stuff back in the day (so for me, like '89/'90)...

Still do and used on Campagnolo stuff only..still about 1/2 full.

[mokofoko]

Originally Posted by mokofoko

Quick followup question for future work. After doing further research, it seems like electrical contact cleaners are the best option for future jobs--seems there are no real downsides to it aside from price.

The brake cleaner option dries clean, but isn't safe for paint (?) and will potentially damage rubber seals if used in copious amounts.

Carb/choke cleaner (which I used this time) is really effective (especially the red chlorinated type!), but is apparently unsafe for both paint and plastics. Plus it leaves behind some lubricant--not good.

Most of the good/expensive electrical contact cleaner options (see previous page) are mainly available in specialty stores, and about the only thing I could find locally is this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-...Wt-Oz/16817418
Has anyone tried it for bike jobs covering plastics/paint?

Would this be in any way superior? (only other option I could find locally at a big box store)
https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-1...30-6/202262505
Also saw this on the shelf at HD. Packaging says it leaves no residue, but every WD product I've ever used seemingly left behind some kind of lubrication:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SP...0055/307599950

Following up on this, I did a little testing of various sprays yesterday.

Super Tech Carb/Choke cleaner (walmart brand, cheap @ $2) --
works well, roughly equivalent to the gumout I've been using. Most DEFINITELY damages rubbers/plastics after only a few minutes of submersion. Otherwise works great for clearing out gunk without leaving behind any residue.

CRC QD Electrical Cleaner (red chlorinated can, $5) --
the best I've tried so far, but read those warnings (keep it off your skin). Dries quick, blasts through grime, leaves zero residue, and seemingly safe for use on paint/rubber/plastic. Rather pricey, but this will likely be my go-to cleanup choice. Note that there is an alternative CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can, non-chlorinated) at Home Depot (costs more @$8), and from the comparison research I did, the cheaper electrical cleaner is at least as effective to use (on the bike, not your skin).

WD-40 (regular stuff) --
while it doesn't tear through the gunk like the above, it was extremely effective in freeing up some seized caliper brakes. And while it does leave behind a film lubricant, it is seemingly safe to use on paint and plastics/rubbers.


My plan from this point forward will be to use brake cleaner or carb/choke cleaner for cleanup of metals ONLY. When plastics, rubber seals, or paint are involved, I will be doing an initial spray down with WD-40 and/or degreaser, with a final pass of CRC Electrical Cleaner before moving on to applying my choice of lubricant.

[Lovetoclimb]

Bumping this as I need somewhat of a specific recommendation:

Per the CK hub service videos on their website, a “non-citrus” degreaser is to be used for cleaning out the bearings before fresh lube is applied. I would like to give it a go doing this simple service to the hubs. What degreaser would someone recommend that fits this bill? Keep in mind I’m in Germany and while we do have a Home Depot like store, I’m not exactly sure what they have. “Bike” focused degreasers would be easiest to get from a shop or website.

Many thanks

[.RJ]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

but I've never been a fan of 'unseal/flush/regreease/seal back on'..for cart bearings.

Why? A flush of bearings after a muddy ride or race can keep them going just fine as long as you get to them quickly.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by KyleighByrd

Thanks for the post and sorry you’re having trouble with your Campy Bullet hubs! It can be a bummer when you don’t have access to a bike shop. I’d suggest you go with White Lightning Clean Streak Degreaser.

Another FNG biting onto a zombie thread(last post 18 months ago)...welcome to the jungle.