School me on Dyno Hub systems

[pelicanrando]

+1 SP hub and B&M IQ-X light. I have around 10k miles on mine and no issues or maintenance. Had a Shimano 3N80 before, the SP hub has a bit less vibration while light is on but I still feel it.

IQ-X has one annoying thing, it starts up automatically when you start rolling. This means if you want it off during the day, every time you stop and start again it will turn on again. Not a huge deal but it annoys me. However, the beam is extremely bright and I have happily used it for all night rides randonneuring, including fast descents at night. I just angle it up a bit if I'm going into a longer descent to get longer throw ahead of me.

[RGW]

Originally Posted by pelicanrando

IQ-X has one annoying thing, it starts up automatically when you start rolling. .

So do you mean even when the unit is turned off, it automatically starts up when the wheel starts rolling?? I assumed if the unit is off, the hub would not be engaged?? Still learning how these all work!!

[philhan89]

not in line with OP but has anyone ever tried the "Velogical Rim Dynamo" system for at least powering lights while riding? Also, interested in a powerful light powered by bike but not necessarily for charging stuff. Looking to setup for faster 400 to 600k credit card touring and dont really wanna build up a new front wheel...

[pelicanrando]

Originally Posted by RGW

So do you mean even when the unit is turned off, it automatically starts up when the wheel starts rolling?? I assumed if the unit is off, the hub would not be engaged?? Still learning how these all work!!

If the light is on, it's drawing power from the hub and you can feel that small amount of additional vibration and drag (it's small but noticeable on my SP hub). The IQ-X switch is an on/off button on the back, but the light is set to always automatically turn on when you start rolling after being stopped. So when I don't want the light on, I need to manually turn it off after each stop on a ride. Not a huge deal and it stays off as long as you are moving.

The switch on my prior light, and IQ-Cyo, was a dial that had "off" "standlight" and "on", so it didn't have the same problem. However, eventually after about 5 years of heavy usage, my switch broke and that's what caused me to get the new light.

[marciero]

Originally Posted by pelicanrando

IQ-X has one annoying thing, it starts up automatically when you start rolling.

I chalk this up to B&M weirdness. Pretty sure it is not supposed to do that. I have an IQ-XS, the small version of this, and it does this. Annoying but I dont mind so much on my commuter. It is otherwise an excellent light. More than most of us need in any type of conditions. I also have the IQ-X. Mine turns on and off as designed and expected. I've also had two Luxos Bs that would turn on in the middle of a ride. That was annoying. I'd turn off, then twenty minutes later it would be on again, without stopping in between. Peter White replaced each of these under warranty in succession. I'm on my third which has been fine for five years or so. (I need to trouble shoot a recent issue but pretty sure it is the connection at the hub)
Edeluxe has none of this weirdness.

I also feel vibration from the Son hub. I consider it normal so it doesnt bother me at all. In fact can be sort of soothing. The hum of your equipment working properly. But I mostly forget about it immediately.

[pelicanrando]

Originally Posted by marciero

I also have the IQ-X. Mine turns on and off as designed and expected.

Interesting, it didn't even occur to me that it might be a bug rather than a feature. I might have to go for an Edelux next time.

[xnetter]

Originally Posted by pelicanrando

+1 SP hub and B&M IQ-X light. I have around 10k miles on mine and no issues or maintenance. Had a Shimano 3N80 before, the SP hub has a bit less vibration while light is on but I still feel it.

IQ-X has one annoying thing, it starts up automatically when you start rolling. This means if you want it off during the day, every time you stop and start again it will turn on again. Not a huge deal but it annoys me. However, the beam is extremely bright and I have happily used it for all night rides randonneuring, including fast descents at night. I just angle it up a bit if I'm going into a longer descent to get longer throw ahead of me.

I also have both the Shimano 3N80 and the SP PV-8 on two different bikes and I feel like the SP has slightly less vibration. I use/have used the B&M IQ-X, IQ Cyo, Lyt and Avy, along with Secula, Secula Plus and the Spanninga Pixeo taillights, which have all been great. The IQ-X is crazy bright - way stronger than the other three.

Apart from the always-on aspect to the IQ-X that was already mentioned, the thing I dislike about the IQ-X and Cyo is the hard-wired primary wire to the dyno and short pigtail leads for the taillight. I have had to modify that wiring on more than one occasion and in one case, the taillight leads on the Cyo broke off from winter corrosion and I had to install new ones. Some of the cheaper B&M head lights (including the Lyt and Avy) just have two sets of male terminals on the rear, allowing you to deal with wiring separate from the light itself. A little easier for those who are not comfortable with fiddling with it and in some cases, using a soldering iron.

KJ

[RudAwkning]

Originally Posted by pelicanrando

Interesting, it didn't even occur to me that it might be a bug rather than a feature. I might have to go for an Edelux next time.

Maybe a results of the daytime running feature?

https://www.darkerside.org/2017/02/b...dlight-review/

[clalor]

Joining this party late, but I'll share anyway.

My preference is Shimano hubs over SP unless Shimano doesn't have an option for the bike. I've had four, soon to be five, wheels with Shimano dyno hubs and they've all been good across a whole range of wheel sizes (20", 26", 650b, 700c). The one SP hub I had (PL-8X, 100x15 thru) had tight bearings and was noticeably more draggy, light on or light off, than any of the Shimano hubs with the lights on. It was draggy enough that I eventually had a new fork made for that the bike to use the 100x12 thru Shimano hub after it was released.

The IQ-X is a nice light. The rotating bracket is nice for mounting flexibility. Compared to the 80 lux Cyo Premium, it doesn't have as good of a standlight and it flickers more at low speed. The IQ-X throws light farther, but the beam is narrower. The Cyo's beam is shorter, but wider. So which light might depend on the bike it's going on. I have an IQ-X on a faster bike and three Cyos on other slower bikes.

For rear lights, I'm a fan of the B&M Line (aka Topline) if the bike has a rear rack, or the Secula if it doesn't. The fender version of the Secula matches the hole pattern for reflectors, so lots of mounting options with all those unused reflector brackets.

Also, the Di2 wire cover/tape is nice for routing wires along the frame. Heatshrink is another nice option when routing it along housing.

[Nath]

Lately I have been toying with the idea of a dynamo front hub. This would be new territory for me so I am hoping to hear from experiences you all may have. Anything such as ease of use, system drag, lighting options / versatility would be helpful to hear. Thanks!

[jtakeda]

Originally Posted by Nath

Lately I have been toying with the idea of a dynamo front hub. This would be new territory for me so I am hoping to hear from experiences you all may have. Anything such as ease of use, system drag, lighting options / versatility would be helpful to hear. Thanks!

The search tool is your friend. There are many many dynamo threads.

Budget/use/aesthetics/specific needs will lead you to a bunch of different end results.

[RudAwkning]

See this thread:

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=259991

[cgolvin]

(apologies in advance, couldn't help myself)

Anyone using a Dinah-Moe Humm?

[Nath]

Originally Posted by RudAwkning

See this thread:

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=259991

Thanks! This thread looks exactly like what I was looking for 🙂

[unterhausen]

Get a SON hub if you can afford it. Use the coax connection. Also an IQ-X and a dyno taillight.

Now you don't need to read the other thread.