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  #31  
Old 10-26-2021, 10:13 PM
Imaking20 Imaking20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmalwo View Post
one thing I can say about the conversion is that if you are going 1x for weight reduction then it's actually not a very effective way to do so because you have to increase the cassette range as well as the chain length plus a medium to long cage RD so in the end you only save about 10g by going 1x while losing a ton of gearing options. I did this calculation a while back when one of my friend was trying to convert his Giant Propel to a 1x. to give you a a scale of what 10g feels like - a sip of water weighs as much as 10g.
This is… not accurate. Seems like an argument to justify aversion to change. Have you run a 1x setup yourself?

My chainring is 104g and cassette is 307g. The difference of a few chain links is minuscule. The weight of an AXS FD and 2x chainrings is not.

None of this is to say my reasoning for 1x was weight. It’s about simplicity and having a different experience on my road bike than my Allroad bike. If you’re going to setup the Allroad/gravel bike the same as the road bike - why have it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lavi View Post
Zactly. A mullet build for mostly road riding has many compromises. The XPLR stuff changes that. The high gears (speed stuff) aren’t far off. The jumps are mainly in the lower gears…and not bad. The chart I posted (42 x 10-44) is pretty convincing. It’s only a short haircut at either end of the range.

But ya, 2x is the most sane option.

Also, responding to weight, I’m not looking for weight reduction with a possible 1x. I run Klampers. So obvi not concerned about weight.

I wish it were that easy for a quick swap. To get the feel, I’d also need the XPLR cassette and DR (<$500 for Rival). Else, it’d be a 42 x 10-33. Sweetness if I lived someplace flat or weren’t 220 lbs. Me, I like to climb (slowly. Dragging anchor slow) as then I get to scream back down. And, there are lots and lots and lots of hills where I ride.
I’ll spot/swap you a Force wide RD and 10-36 cassette for the experiment


Also e13 > SRAM. That 9t cog is a game changer. If they had a 12sp option with a <40t largest cog, I’d already be running it.
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  #32  
Old 10-26-2021, 10:17 PM
mtechnica mtechnica is offline
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Honestly it's a bit personal preference. I have 40T 10-42 1X and it's fine except for going 40+mph with other people that are on road bikes. It doesn't do that very well.
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  #33  
Old 10-26-2021, 10:27 PM
Andy sti Andy sti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lavi View Post

I wish it were that easy for a quick swap. To get the feel, I’d also need the XPLR cassette and DR (<$500 for Rival). Else, it’d be a 42 x 10-33. Sweetness if I lived someplace flat or weren’t 220 lbs. Me, I like to climb (slowly. Dragging anchor slow) as then I get to scream back down. And, there are lots and lots and lots of hills where I ride.
Yes the need the cassette but you can get the Garbaruk cage instead of a new RD. Get a chainring while your at it. Easy swap.

https://www.garbaruk.com/sram-12-spe...ml?category=15

Last edited by Andy sti; 10-26-2021 at 10:46 PM.
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  #34  
Old 10-26-2021, 11:00 PM
Imaking20 Imaking20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prototoast View Post
I think a good rule of thumbs is knobs on the tires = 1x, smooth tires = 2x.
*Like*

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtechnica View Post
Honestly it's a bit personal preference. I have 40T 10-42 1X and it's fine except for going 40+mph with other people that are on road bikes. It doesn't do that very well.
*like*


I do realize I'm (apparently) an outlier in never using nor wanting a 1:1 ratio. It'll only slow you down...


Attaching some images for context - and to heap more praise on E13 (or Ekar) cassettes, because 9t is a game changer and why I wish I could have stuck with di2 and 11 speed on the Allied rather than AXS and 12 speed. 40T ring and 9-39 cassette (even though I ran 9-32) is significantly lower low gear and nearly the same top end as 52/36 and 11-28. I did back to back rides on the Hakka on 1x and my last Allied with Dura Ace 2x and was super, super surprised when I realized the 40 + 9 gave up nothing to 52 + 11 on 30MPH+ pedaling sections.
Attached Images
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File Type: png Gear Inches.png (40.3 KB, 180 views)
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  #35  
Old 10-26-2021, 11:20 PM
XXtwindad XXtwindad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imaking20 View Post
This is… not accurate. Seems like an argument to justify aversion to change. Have you run a 1x setup yourself?

My chainring is 104g and cassette is 307g. The difference of a few chain links is minuscule. The weight of an AXS FD and 2x chainrings is not.

None of this is to say my reasoning for 1x was weight. It’s about simplicity and having a different experience on my road bike than my Allroad bike. If you’re going to setup the Allroad/gravel bike the same as the road bike - why have it?


I’ll spot/swap you a Force wide RD and 10-36 cassette for the experiment


Also e13 > SRAM. That 9t cog is a game changer. If they had a 12sp option with a <40t largest cog, I’d already be running it.
Two all-road/gravel bikes. 31/48F 11-36R & 32/48F and 11-36R

Two road bikes: 36/52F 11-32R & 34/50 and 11-34.

Also working on an eventual eTap build with 30/44 and 10-36.

That seems different enough for me
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  #36  
Old 10-26-2021, 11:26 PM
72gmc 72gmc is offline
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I’ve been debating 2x vs 1x myself, Lavi, and I’ve settled on 2x because most of my riding is on the road right now. Here in Seattle, the little 30t ring is a big plus for exploring silly steep hills and/or taking care of my knees. I know from past experience that 1x works fine for me when it’s more of a mixed surface situation with long gradual climbs.
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  #37  
Old 10-27-2021, 05:44 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryScientist View Post
I think for a bike that sees mostly road duty 2x is smarter all the way around. Sometimes there are issues with fitting a 2x system, getting the FD in the right spot and ensuring chainstay clearance for the inner ring, but in your case you have that dialed already, so the setup guesswork is already taken care of.
NOT gonna go thru the 3 pages(and growing) of this discussion but I agree...'Most' front ders are set and forget, give far better and more useful gear ranges than 1by, NO YUGE weight gain(except maybe for sram since ya gotta have 2 shifters..for 1by)...I don't see any advantage to a road mostly 1by setup. It answers no questions, solves no 'problems'.

IMHO..of course
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  #38  
Old 10-27-2021, 06:37 AM
TiminVA TiminVA is offline
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A few years ago I had 1x on a gravel bike. The 1x was fine for most off road riding, the gear jumps were tolerable, but on the road I couldn't stand it. I could rarely find the right gear and it didn't have the top end gears needed. I was spinning out all the time on anything remotely downhill. Maybe when 15 speed is available, 1x will work for everything .
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  #39  
Old 10-27-2021, 07:12 AM
Smitty2k1 Smitty2k1 is offline
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I have an all road bike (Black Mountain Cycles Road+) that sees mostly pavement and switches between 700c x 32mm and 650b x 48mm wheels and tires.

I had a 2x 50/34 compact crank and 11-32 cassette, but I recently swapped to the GRX 48/31 crank and kept the same cassette.

I really like the 11-32 Shimano cassette and the 48t big ring on my new crank is perfect for most of the rides I do. I can't imagine using this bike 1x (but I've never tried it...).

I don't actually own a "pure" road bike, so maybe I'll change my tune once I get one, but as long as my all road bike does double duty it's staying 2x.

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  #40  
Old 10-27-2021, 07:24 AM
auto_rock auto_rock is offline
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I have an "AXS of Eagle" 1x setup, 38 front and 10-50 rear. It looks hilarious. I like it, but I like it because I like to take it silly places and ride it like a mountain bike.

I really like the "1x for knobbies 2x for smooth" rule, that's good.

Personally, for road riding, the "shift the front down, click over two or three in the rear" at the bottom of a climb is muscle memory - while it's fun to try new things it's also nice to do something familiar.

Keep it 2x!
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  #41  
Old 10-27-2021, 08:24 AM
Likes2ridefar Likes2ridefar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auto_rock View Post
I have an "AXS of Eagle" 1x setup, 38 front and 10-50 rear. It looks hilarious. I like it, but I like it because I like to take it silly places and ride it like a mountain bike.

I really like the "1x for knobbies 2x for smooth" rule, that's good.

Personally, for road riding, the "shift the front down, click over two or three in the rear" at the bottom of a climb is muscle memory - while it's fun to try new things it's also nice to do something familiar.

Keep it 2x!
Sounds like mine. Where I ride a 42t up front is good for me everywhere. I ride similar style it sounds but do often hit road only on brief weekday rides. I have semi knobby tires (2.0” MSO Donnelly) that roll to my satisfaction. Personally I find hardly any compromise but I ride solo.


I strongly question most of those naysayers that say it’s simply not an option for the road or that it was a horrible experience. Did you ride the new AxS explorer and it’s offered range or a mullet setup like ours? Doubtful because it’s really quite nice for most situations. My previous 1x I’d agree but not this sweet AXS setup.
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  #42  
Old 10-27-2021, 08:38 AM
makoti makoti is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quickfeet View Post
I have ridden 1x gravel for a couple of years and pretty much constantly lament not having 2x. I find the gear jumps to be too annoying.
Gear jumps are not a 1x problem. They are a cassette problem. As cassettes get to be more 12 or 13 cogs, this problem becomes less and less. I am building with Ekar 13 and compared to my 11, the jumps are not much bigger. If someone goes to 14, gear jumps will not be an issue.
I wouldn't go 1x with 10 or even 11, but 12+, sure.
All that said, for a mainly road setup I would stay with 2x right now. More good choices.
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  #43  
Old 10-27-2021, 09:19 AM
MikeD MikeD is offline
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What's bad too is 1x on an ebike. A lot of them are that way. 10 tooth cogs suck too. They are horribly inefficient and wear rapidly.
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  #44  
Old 10-27-2021, 11:44 AM
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lavi lavi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtechnica View Post
Honestly it's a bit personal preference. I have 40T 10-42 1X and it's fine except for going 40+mph with other people that are on road bikes. It doesn't do that very well.
This is Sram AXS stuff for you? XPLR? And yes, losing the very top end, as you referenced, is ok with me. This is not my go-fast bike...and I either ride solo, or do JRA stuff with a buddy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy sti View Post
Yes the need the cassette but you can get the Garbaruk cage instead of a new RD. Get a chainring while your at it. Easy swap.

https://www.garbaruk.com/sram-12-spe...ml?category=15
No this is info I can use! The cage is easier than getting a new DR. Do you have this? Any feedback on performance? Also, for whatever reason, they only reference this working with a Force dr. Is there a reason for that, or would it be the same with a Red dr?
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  #45  
Old 10-27-2021, 12:01 PM
Turkle Turkle is offline
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I am continually frustrated by the 1x11 gearing on my gravel / all-road bike. If I put on a huge cassette for long climbs, then the gears still aren't close enough at the low end to get a precise cadence going, and the higher road gearing suffers. If I put on a narrower cassette for better road riding, then I am continually wishing I had at least *one* more lower gear for climbing.

1x11 is great, in my opinion, for *actual* gravel (like, super rough stuff where you don't need a precise pedaling cadence and just need to set it and forget it for a while), or for city riding with a lot of stops and starts where you don't want to be fussing with your front derailleur all the time. I actually really like 1x gearing for those scenarios!

But on longer "all-road" rides with both fast pavement and challenging climbs, I definitely think that the 2x is preferable.
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