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  #16  
Old 01-22-2019, 02:52 PM
Mark McM Mark McM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDollarsign View Post
This brings up another point. The fork needs to be a certain length to work with a headset of a certain stack. How do I determine that?
There are two headset dimensions that matter for stack height - the bottom stack height (height of the bottom bearing assembly), and the total stack height.

The bottom stack height combines the fork length, so to duplicate the exact geometry, the fork length + headset bottom stack should remain constant. However, the bottom stack height varies little between different headsets (only a few millimeters at most), so this is probably of little concern.

The total stack height will affect the amount of steerer length required, plus the spacers under the stem. If you've already got spacers under the steerer, then you want to keep the headset total stack height + spacers equal to a constant. You can always change the spacers to accommodate a taller or shorter headset stack height. If you don't have any spacers under the stem, then you'll need to make sure the new headset total stack height is equal to or smaller than the current headset total stack height, and if you have the maximum spacer height under the stem, then the new headset total stack must be equal to or greater than the current headset total stack height.


EDIT:

I see that you are looking for a threaded headset not a threadless headset. The part above for the bottom stack still stands, but there is a different requirement for the headset total stack: For threaded headsets, the steerer tube length must be equal to or greater than the headset total stack height + head tube length.

Last edited by Mark McM; 01-22-2019 at 03:03 PM.
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  #17  
Old 01-22-2019, 02:54 PM
bart998 bart998 is offline
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Re:

I recently built up an old frame and needed a 1" threaded headset fast. I grabbed a velo orange Grand-Cru that was available and am very pleased with the quality and appearance. Just as nice as a King or FSA in my opinion.
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  #18  
Old 01-22-2019, 03:37 PM
fmradio516 fmradio516 is offline
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I havent read any of the comments, but my 2cents is to stay away from Campy headsets.
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  #19  
Old 01-22-2019, 04:00 PM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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Campagnolo headsets arent bad the problem is that you have to maintain them annually. Or if you have bad weather just coming back home to re-grease them, is the only way to make them last. I like them but if i have to chose between a shimano threaded and a campagnolo threaded, I will go with the shimano. The issue is that are harder to find that campagnolo ones.
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  #20  
Old 01-22-2019, 04:02 PM
avalonracing avalonracing is online now
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I used a Chris King forever on one of my bikes. Over 10 years and 40K miles. Even though I have King on all of my bikes and they have served me well I just didn't feel like spending $140 on a new one so I got a Ritchey WCS for around half that price and it has been great for the past two years.
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  #21  
Old 01-22-2019, 04:22 PM
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zmudshark zmudshark is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark McM View Post
For threaded headsets, the steerer tube length must be equal to or greater than the headset total stack height + head tube length.
^^^This.

Measure what you have. Likely you can go shorter, but not taller, depending on your existing spacers. I've seen many a vintage steel frame cut for a specific headset, not many extra threads.

From Velo-Orange:

Stack Height

Stack height is the total height, or thickness, of the headset, not including the parts that fit into the head tube. In other words, it's the vertical distance required to fit the headset. Stack height is important because if it's greater than the available space on the fork the headset will not fit. This is rarely an issue on modern frames, but older frames often had their steerer tube lengths sized for a low-stack-height steel headset, so taller modern headsets might not fit. It pays to measure first. On a fork that has extra length, spacers are added to take up the excess.

If you're fitting a headset but find you lack just a millimeter or two of room, simply remove the lock washer and use a drop of Locktite on the top nut instead.
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  #22  
Old 01-22-2019, 04:26 PM
19wisconsin64 19wisconsin64 is offline
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Have had the best experiences with the Cane Creek 110. Of course the big variable with all modern headsets is the quality of the installation.
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  #23  
Old 01-22-2019, 04:40 PM
Spaghetti Legs Spaghetti Legs is online now
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I think the spirit of your original question is if a CK headset is twice as good as a Campy, and I would say no, while admitting that I have limited experience with the CK - used on one bike once. I have at least a dozen bikes with some form of Campy threaded headset, mostly 80’s and 90’s vintage and they are all great but I am not too hard on my bikes and I take good care of them. I have a couple with new 1” Record and they are just as good.
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  #24  
Old 01-22-2019, 06:08 PM
mhespenheide mhespenheide is offline
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Can I ask which inexpensive Tange headset to go with? It seems like there's four or more models of them. Or does it not matter?
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  #25  
Old 01-22-2019, 06:19 PM
andeww andeww is offline
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Wow, I had no idea campy hs had a bad rap.
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  #26  
Old 01-22-2019, 07:16 PM
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zzy zzy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhespenheide View Post
Can I ask which inexpensive Tange headset to go with? It seems like there's four or more models of them. Or does it not matter?
The passage. Make sure you get the right size race for your fork (JIS/ISO).

Quote:
Originally Posted by andeww View Post
Wow, I had no idea campy hs had a bad rap.
It's not that so much as the loose ball design requires more maintenance and and tool surfaces show marks easily. A simple chrome plated cheapo tange works great.
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  #27  
Old 01-22-2019, 07:20 PM
Louis Louis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliedid View Post
TANGE makes a surprisingly good one for little money
+1 on Tange

I'm always amazed by how much folks are willing to pay for fancy-brand headsets, when something that performs 99.999% as well and is a fraction of the cost is available.
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  #28  
Old 01-22-2019, 07:27 PM
CDollarsign CDollarsign is offline
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Louis, wanna help me do some wrenching?!
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  #29  
Old 01-22-2019, 07:29 PM
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saab2000 saab2000 is offline
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My Campagnolo 1" and 1 1/8" threadless have been the gold standard for me. I've had several and never had any pitting.

They're uncommon, but a very nice touch on a Campagnolo-equipped bicycle.

Just make sure the frame and fork are properly faced and the pieces are installed properly and not overtightened. It takes a bit of a light touch but it is not something that can't be done either. I ran three of these on three different bikes for years and had zero issues with them. One is still in regular usage and is nearly a decade old at this point. Turns perfectly.
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  #30  
Old 01-22-2019, 07:34 PM
Louis Louis is offline
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I can help, but I'm busy this weekend. Given the weather we're getting, I assume you aren't in a rush.

Do you have the tools you're going to need? (I have a few headset-related things that could help.)

Louis

Last edited by Louis; 01-22-2019 at 07:36 PM.
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