#16
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It's only fairly short if it's the wrong size. |
#17
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Well.. now you know the size of the bikes he was trying to compare.. we did not know about that... right ?
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#18
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Carry on! :-) |
#19
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M |
#20
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That thought led me down a -20d x 110/120 path which seems flawed. As many of you have alluded, the best move is to install my saddle of preference, then take the existing 30mm spacers under the stock stem and put them on top. Now let's see where I am at AND as Ultra says, go ride it. And then be like Ryun and just cut the steerer. period. Of course the bar may have a different reach. The 9120 hoods seem to have greater reach from my C10/R10, C11 or Force (this would be first time on shimano since 9v ultegra triple) If I end up a little shorter and a little higher on this frame that would be ok. I't going to see more winter/wet miles than summer so it might be of benefit to have a less aggressive (for me at least) position PS. Thank you very much for the offer to try a -17d x 120. I may f/up with you on that but for now I'll flail away using what I have to get a closer idea of where I need to go. |
#21
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bikecad ?
I'd try using the free version of bikecad. It allows you to put in the frame angles and HT, saddle dimensions etc and will generate stack/reach and also saddle to bars etc.
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#22
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Another way to look at it.....You are buying (on purpose) a tall head tube somewhat shorter top tube frame. Designed for comfort and long hours on the bike......an "endurance" bike. Why not set it up to be just that? Use a stem a tad shorter than your max performance bike. Run the bars a tad taller, etc. If you want longer and lower from a bike designed to be ridden taller and shorter.....maybe you are buying wrong frame. Just playing advocate here.
Personally....I keep a triple crank bike set up just that way. It has a relatively tall head tube. At first....I tried to set it up same dimensions as the Cannondale CAAD 10 (2.5" or so drop) double I also really like and ride at lot....with groups. Then I realized it was designed to be a different kind of bike. So shortened up the stem one size, put 10 MM spacers back under the stem, and set it up to use the way it was designed and intended. I really enjoy that bike now for just riding by myself. It doesn't matter if I'm riding with slightly less drop (still about 2"). Last edited by Ralph; 02-20-2019 at 06:44 AM. |
#23
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YRMV as with all things M |
#24
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as you might expect, the want for full fenders is responded to with here's your endurance geo. fortunately a synapse doesnt swing as far to the tall headtube upright short position - just 5mm longer CS/WB and 2cm taller HT vs a supersix EVO - as a roubaix or domane > That's the nunace. I set my CX with a bit less setback and drop (like 1cm less). I suppose that is within the fit window of most of us. as you noted when reach and drop are much much different it just doesn't feel right. maybe I should take the pea out from under my mattress and let the bike reveal itself |
#25
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As much as I have tried using those calculators when setting up a new bike, I've always found my best approach is buy two stems that might work, install one, see if it feels good for a week or so of consistent riding.
If yes, then it's a keeper. If not, try the other. And tinker with spacers in small increments on each stem use. For example, I have a Parlee that the calculator said a 110 with a couple of specific spacers would do the trick. I ended up buying a 120 and it rides just wonderfully, so much more comfy and stable. You've been around awhile, trust your gut! |
#26
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#27
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your point is well taken...it's a balance between same fit on all bike versus letting each one be what they are and enjoy the differences. and of course, even with the go fast bikes set up "the same", they still feel different. some I feel more on top of others I feel inside of. but all I get that molded to the bike feeling ... where it just feels like you rare pedaling suspended and have the wind blowing what hair I have left |
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