Chillin' on the bike you spent all day waxin' -- but what kind?

[msl819]

Originally Posted by Clean39T

Winter madness is setting in. Snowbound for a week or two it seems. Time to bust out the deep maintenance and do some rebuilding.

So, what do the cognoscenti here recommend for waxing a steel frameset?

I was looking at Meguiar’s Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax. Others I should consider?

I know my Sachs has a bit of surface rust around the BB and one spot by the headset cup, so I also want to address that. I was thinking of using red scotchbrite to get it off and then some clear nail polish to seal it. Other recommendations? I have a dremel, maybe there are some fine polishing attachment I could use - though I do not have the steady hands of a dentist, so that may not be the best.

Lastly, is Weigle's Framesaver still the recommended interior product or would Boeshield T9 do the job just as well?

I have nothing to add to the discussion on product but I must say, the 90’s kid in me really appreciates your thread title! Time to sit back and unwind!!!

[JSL]

Originally Posted by Mr B

Bike Lust is silicone-based, so keep it far away from anything you ever expect to paint or repaint.

Educate me on this. What does silicone do to the paint or metal that is so destructive?

[Mr B]

Originally Posted by JSL

Educate me on this. What does silicone do to the paint or metal that is so destructive?

It isn't destructive, just extremely difficult for a painter to remove when preparing a clean surface. I'm not 100% familiar on the exact science of it but it was once explained to me that when you try to clean Silicone off a surface, the particles just divide, spread, and divide some more. It does a very good job of clinging to whatever it's applied to, and is difficult to 'lift' off. It does not dissolve. In short, a painter's nightmare.

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by JSL

Educate me on this. What does silicone do to the paint or metal that is so destructive?

Silicone will keep paint from adhering.

Same is true with hiking boots, unfortunately. I had a pair of much loved boots that I wanted to resole, but a well-known boot repairer asked if I had used silicone sealer on the boot, and when I said yes, he said he wouldn't do the work...

Stick to bees wax on boots, and carnauba past wax on bike frames.

[.RJ]

order it by the case on ebay

[JSL]

Originally Posted by Mr B

It isn't destructive, just extremely difficult for a painter to remove when preparing a clean surface. I'm not 100% familiar on the exact science of it but it was once explained to me that when you try to clean Silicone off a surface, the particles just divide, spread, and divide some more. It does a very good job of clinging to whatever it's applied to, and is difficult to 'lift' off. It does not dissolve. In short, a painter's nightmare.

Got it. Thank you!

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by Mr B

It isn't destructive, just extremely difficult for a painter to remove when preparing a clean surface. I'm not 100% familiar on the exact science of it but it was once explained to me that when you try to clean Silicone off a surface, the particles just divide, spread, and divide some more. It does a very good job of clinging to whatever it's applied to, and is difficult to 'lift' off. It does not dissolve. In short, a painter's nightmare.

Interesting. I don't think I've used any of that on the RS so far....which may get repainted some day.. But something to watch out for. Pedros Bike Lust is silicone based, iirc.

[CDollarsign]

I thought Bar Keepers Friend was a good mild medium for removing rust? Let me know what you go with on the wax front as I am doing the same in the next coming weeks...

[charliedid]

Isn't a bike that is to be painted going to be media blasted? How is a silicone protectant any barrier to that?

What am I missing?

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by CDollarsign

I thought Bar Keepers Friend was a good mild medium for removing rust? Let me know what you go with on the wax front as I am doing the same in the next coming weeks...

Hmm. I think I have some of that on hand. I wonder if even bon-ami would be just abrasive enough to help it slough off. We're talking about small areas here - and I'm ordering up some dremel tips so I can really be precise without hurting what's around it.

[shinomaster]

I have some old Turtle wax which seems to work ok when I remember to use it.

[Xicaboy]

I settled on using Pig Snot on all my motorcycles and found it to be easily applied, leaves a really good shine, and protects both painted and chrome parts well (and that’s about an entire Road King Classic) with an added benefit of leaving no residue, especially on flat black surfaces like other waxes. Have been using it on my bikes since I sold all my MCs and am just as pleased with it for them.

[Joel]

I just finished up the entire fleet.

Meguiar's Gold Class Carnuba Plus - Premium Paste Wax.

Very happy with the results.

[texbike]

On the painted bikes, I usually hit them up during a build/rebuild with a clay bar, and then a couple of coats of Nu-Finish. I'm not sure of the long-term implications of using Nu-Finish, but it works well and is easy to apply and remove. I've used it on our daily driver cars for years and it seems to hold up nicely. At under $10 a bottle, it's hard to beat.

Texbike

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by texbike

On the painted bikes, I usually hit them up during a build/rebuild with a clay bar, and then a couple of coats of Nu-Finish. I'm not sure of the long-term implications of using Nu-Finish, but it works well and is easy to apply and remove. I've used it on our daily driver cars for years and it seems to hold up nicely. At under $10 a bottle, it's hard to beat.

Texbike

I became a huge fan of clay bars on automotive finishes that pick up a lot of pollution and road crap. Do you see a big difference on the bike?