I removed a stuck post...

[pinkshogun]

by adding a bolt for leverage

[Cat3roadracer]

What happens next? The welded binder looks shot.

[pinkshogun]

i spread the binder to get the PB inside. After the post was out i clamped it back, filed the holes a bit and the same post fits snugly inside again. it does look chewed up in the pictures but its not

[farmerjosh]

Was the post slipping in the vise? I'm not sure if I would have gone the same route, but looks like it worked. Woot

[pinkshogun]

at first i used the big steel seatpost clamp but that was slipping in the vice. i let it soak over the winter, drilled the post today and it came out after a couple of big twists in the vice

[charliedid]

Satisfying

[AngryScientist]

Excellent.

pinkshogun is a kindred spirit. Bikes are not museum pieces, sometimes you have to use excessive force.

I've been known to show a frame who's boss from time to time too.

[DWF]

Originally Posted by pinkshogun

at first i used the big steel seatpost clamp but that was slipping in the vice. i let it soak over the winter, drilled the post today and it came out after a couple of big twists in the vice

I have s similar stuck seatpost, aluminum in a Ti frame, for the last 9 months. I’m curious what you soaked it in over the winter to help loosen the post.

[dddd]

Originally Posted by DWF

I have s similar stuck seatpost, aluminum in a Ti frame, for the last 9 months. I’m curious what you soaked it in over the winter to help loosen the post.

That's an easy fix using a Sawzall with a long and narrow enough blade to slot it along it's entire length just up to the level of the bottom of the slot in the seat tube.
Don't align/clock your cut with the slot in the seat tube, you don't want the blade to contact the edge there OR at the top of the seat tube.
Any contact with the edges would allow the blade to concentrate force enough to start cutting the frame material, but the blade will never begin cutting into the smooth inside of the seat tube, it gets no bite at all.
I've had to sharpen the blade teeth near the tip of the blade to even get good bite in the alloy post, so it just cant dig into the titanium or steel at all.

Take into account the travel of the reciprocating blade, to prevent the tip of the blade from getting caught on the end of the seat tube and causing damage.
The teeth are directional, so the blade tries to eject itself from the seat tube with some force when/if the teeth are getting bite into the soft metal of the post.
You might have to slenderize the blade on a bench grinder to accomodate the ID of the post(?) (I've done that once).

Use a sharpened spoke with a sharp bend near it's tip to firstly probe for the end of the post to know the cutting depth needed, and then use the spoke to probe the slot that you are cutting in the post to verify when the slot is down to bare titanium for the entire length of the seatpost below the bottom of the clamping slot in the seat tube. A sharp spoke will get some bite in aluminum but will just glide along the titanium just like the saw blade teeth.


Leave a 1" stub protruding after cutting off the seatpost, this you can grip with faucet pliers to twist out the fully-slotted seatpost using penetrant and some back-and-forth twisting. You might want to reinforce a thin post with a dowel insert so the pliers won't crush it.
The post won't break free unless the cut is completely through to the seat tube the full length of the slot. The slot needs to be cut thoroughly in order for the compressive grip of the corrosion to be relieved, but again it doesn't need to extend above the height of the lower end of slot in the seat tube.

The post below was very badly stuck, I had worked at it over long period of time before using the saw.
It had resisted dry ice with big wrench torque using penetrant.
Too much torque applied to a seatpost could deform the stay eyes at their attachment points, maybe crack something.

I once had to pull out an oversized steel post (last photos) that some clown had pounded in probably 60 years ago, and it was extremely difficult because I could not use the saw to cut out the steel post!

[Veloo]

Congrats!

This particular case makes me think of RJ's impact gun method.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-YpmDx86d0

[pinkshogun]

I used PB Blaster and kept the frame in the shed as PB smells bad. Kroil is the best but harder to obtain and more expensive

[RWL2222]

Originally Posted by dddd

That's an easy fix using a Sawzall with a long and narrow enough blade to slot it along it's entire length just up to the level of the bottom of the slot in the seat tube.
Don't align/clock your cut with the slot in the seat tube, you don't want the blade to contact the edge there OR at the top of the seat tube.
Any contact with the edges would allow the blade to concentrate force enough to start cutting the frame material, but the blade will never begin cutting into the smooth inside of the seat tube, it gets no bite at all.
I've had to sharpen the blade teeth near the tip of the blade to even get good bite in the alloy post, so it just cant dig into the titanium or steel at all.

Take into account the travel of the reciprocating blade, to prevent the tip of the blade from getting caught on the end of the seat tube and causing damage.
The teeth are directional, so the blade tries to eject itself from the seat tube with some force when/if the teeth are getting bite into the soft metal of the post.
You might have to slenderize the blade on a bench grinder to accomodate the ID of the post(?) (I've done that once).

Use a sharpened spoke with a sharp bend near it's tip to firstly probe for the end of the post to know the cutting depth needed, and then use the spoke to probe the slot that you are cutting in the post to verify when the slot is down to bare titanium for the entire length of the seatpost below the bottom of the clamping slot in the seat tube. A sharp spoke will get some bite in aluminum but will just glide along the titanium just like the saw blade teeth.


Leave a 1" stub protruding after cutting off the seatpost, this you can grip with faucet pliers to twist out the fully-slotted seatpost using penetrant and some back-and-forth twisting. You might want to reinforce a thin post with a dowel insert so the pliers won't crush it.
The post won't break free unless the cut is completely through to the seat tube the full length of the slot. The slot needs to be cut thoroughly in order for the compressive grip of the corrosion to be relieved, but again it doesn't need to extend above the height of the lower end of slot in the seat tube.

The post below was very badly stuck, I had worked at it over long period of time before using the saw.
It had resisted dry ice with big wrench torque using penetrant.
Too much torque applied to a seatpost could deform the stay eyes at their attachment points, maybe crack something.

I once had to pull out an oversized steel post (last photos) that some clown had pounded in probably 60 years ago, and it was extremely difficult because I could not use the saw to cut out the steel post!

Nice technical post but it looks like a saucy f* it attitude seems to help here too in cutting through any hesitation.

[tellyho]

Originally Posted by RWL2222

Nice technical post but it looks like a saucy f* it attitude seems to help here too in cutting through any hesitation.

Right: beginning assumption is that you don't care a whole lot about frame. Which is probably appropriate if it has an unusably stuck seatpost.

[Supertuck]

Love a stuck post success story! I just did the same for a friend. Post in the bench vise and the whole bike for leverage. Luckily the head didn't come loose before the post did.

I've never done the sawzall inside the seat tube treatment... I hope I don't have to!

[Tickdoc]

The legend of King Arthur lives on.