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  #1  
Old 08-16-2022, 10:54 AM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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Help cure me, 40 yrs of tubular over gluing

My several season tubular re-bith, tubeless tubulars being the impetus has me convinced I am tubular guy again.

I've always severely glued my tires, paranoia, safety, what ever. Not racing, but want to hammer turns with no fear. Part of my stopping using was having to pull a flat on the road with my over glued installs. I now carry a mini plug kit and 2oz of sealant and will Lift home if I ever can't get rolling again. Every few years I've cut a clincher into a non boot-able state. I'd take an extra clincher for certain rides in case of that kinda thing, or used to...

>>But learn me how to use less that is enough.

I am a total Mastik guy, always have been. So tape conversation not desired by me.

Pluses for me now are the rims on average are a lot wider than early on. 23-26 mm wide gluing surface VS 18-19 in my infancy [teens]. Thus with much more surface area, my over gluing technique ready for less safety margin.

Thoughts/opinions?
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  #2  
Old 08-16-2022, 11:35 AM
El Chaba El Chaba is offline
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As a critic of glue jobs, I think that there a lot of bad ones. Having said that, it doesn’t take much glue to get the job done. Theoretically, if you used no glue at all, the weight of the bike/ rider is always pushing the tire to the rim even during very hard cornering. Now, if during cornering you experience an uneven surface or debris that causes the wheel to unload and then reload, that momentary force could dislodge the tire. But, it doesn’t take an extraordinary amount of glue to protect against the kind of forces that can dislodge a tire. You do want a pretty decent and evenly distributed bond to eliminate crepitation which adds significantly to rolling resistance….
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Old 08-16-2022, 12:29 PM
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KJMUNC KJMUNC is offline
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I once was a member of the OGC (over-gluing club) but I eventually found a nice, even, but thin(!), layer on the rim and one on the tire is plenty for me. I'm not carving corners or laying the bike way over like I used to in crit racing, so a triple tight glue job just isn't required.

So even/thin/consistent trumps globby/multi-layer.....also, pro tip: put on Dark Side of the Moon and glue away. 43min of pure zen.
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Old 08-16-2022, 12:57 PM
Chris Chris is offline
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The guy who sponsored our team in the 80s would Fast Tack our wheels on Friday night for a Saturday crit. Never had a problem.

Last edited by Chris; 08-16-2022 at 03:22 PM.
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  #5  
Old 08-16-2022, 01:23 PM
denapista denapista is offline
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You realize instantly when trying to remove an old tire for hours, that your gluing techniques need improvement. The key is super thin layers, and get the inner side wall of the rim cavity so the tires cures at that juncture. This prevents tires rolling off.

It puzzles me that people I know are so scared of gluing.. They all drop off their wheels for gluing duties.
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Old 08-16-2022, 01:27 PM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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I am going to try this:

Lite glue already on a used tires, clean 23mm wide rims.

These 36mm will be the fattest tires I have ever glued up, 30mm having been biggest previously.

2 thin applications on wheel, one over existing on tires, mount.

I never get lumps, glops etc. just too many thin layers.

I have decades experience with glues, used to custom build formica displays, and 15 years worth of building guitars.

So I am confident I am not too heavy for light work. Just always made sure glued up as secure as possible. Being 200lb and very aggressive in turns in my early days. old habits die hard etc.
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Old 08-16-2022, 01:47 PM
crankles crankles is offline
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my MO when I *was* gluing was two thin layers on the rim, one on the base tape....24 cure for each rim layer, then one wet layer on the rim at mounting.
Never failed for Road/Track... Glued hundreds of tires this way...Failed once long ago (20+years?) for cross...switched to 'belgian method" glue+tape for CX.

Lots of rims have some deep center channels...not ideal. I've even gone so far as to fill that channel by gluing down a thin strip of velox...big hassle.
I used a little homemade guage to see the shape.

I know you don't want to hear this, but the last 4-5 years has been exclusively Mariposa tape for all applications. The flexibilty of the tire + thickness of the tape provide an excellent contact patch, even with deep channels live on the enves pictured.

My pots of Mastik sit collecting dust.
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  #8  
Old 08-16-2022, 01:50 PM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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The bulk and more-so cost of the tape offends me. Even my over gluing does not come close to bulk.

I do not mind hearing it at all, but pretty set in this regard. All opinions welcomed.
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Old 08-16-2022, 02:17 PM
crankles crankles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robt57 View Post
The bulk and more-so cost of the tape offends me. Even my over gluing does not come close to bulk.

I do not mind hearing it at all, but pretty set in this regard. All opinions welcomed.
lol. I bill out my free time at $10000000/hour so the time savings pays for the tape.
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  #10  
Old 08-16-2022, 02:24 PM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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Originally Posted by crankles View Post
lol. I bill out my free time at $10000000/hour so the time savings pays for the tape.
But not the bulk.

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Old 08-16-2022, 02:24 PM
glepore glepore is offline
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A lot of it depends on the base tape. Some, like Veloflex, is coated and it doesn't absorb as much glue, leaving more near the surface. My routine is a single layer on tire and used rim. If the rim is unused or cleaned bare, then 2. I've struggled to get tires glued with the new Mastic off this way roadside, so I've taken to carrying a paint can opener-Spud's suggestion-and its the ideal tool for the job.
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  #12  
Old 08-16-2022, 02:29 PM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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Originally Posted by glepore View Post
I've taken to carrying a paint can opener-Spud's suggestion-and its the ideal tool for the job.
I have high hopes my tubeless tubs, mini plug kit, sealant doggy bag and no spare strategy can have me not worry about fighting with pulling off a tub for a spare on the road.
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Old 08-16-2022, 04:40 PM
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Ozz Ozz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robt57 View Post
I have high hopes my tubeless tubs, mini plug kit, sealant doggy bag and no spare strategy can have me not worry about fighting with pulling off a tub for a spare on the road.
I've been riding tubulars this summer, and just carry a small bottle of Stans & some CO2.....I figure 99% of the flats I've ever had have been small holes from glass or wires, and the sealant should handle just fine.

I should probably carry a pump too.....someday I will carry a spare.

P.S. - I use the Mariposa tape....the speed, straight-tires, and idiot-proofness of it are worth the cost.
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Old 08-16-2022, 04:56 PM
robt57 robt57 is offline
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Originally Posted by Ozz View Post
P.S. - I use the Mariposa tape....the speed, straight-tires, and idiot-proofness of it are worth the cost.

I can totally see this would be the case. But like parallel parking I fear the use it loose it of it all. And my stubborn streak, yada.

Since I started the mounting with the last layer on the tire still wet, the straight thing ease been ok.

I also am stubborn with regards to a full frame pump on hand for road PSi.
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Last edited by robt57; 08-16-2022 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 08-16-2022, 05:21 PM
Ralph Ralph is offline
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Know what you mean.....Rode tubulars for 30 years. Didn't make near the big deal about gluing like I read on here. I just put some glue on rim and let dry a few minutes to get tacky....and put new tire on. Never had one come off. Did keep some old rims (only) around for stretching tire on with air before I actually installed and used one. Carried a spare under seat, and if I had a flat, just ripped tire off and put on spare. and pumped it up with CO2, and hoped back on bike. Much faster and less hassle than changing out a tube.....or fooling with all this sealant. It was just no big deal. There was always enough old glue on rim to get me home or finish ride. As I recall....usually used Tubasti or Continental glue. New rim....2 coats.

Last edited by Ralph; 08-16-2022 at 05:37 PM.
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