advice needed: trouble fitting Campy skeleton brake to new Moots road fork

[sfhbike]

Originally Posted by Kontact

It matters, because I'm describing keeping the set screw piece in place and moving the caliper further out in front of it. Whatever you add in front of that part is what you can subtract from washers behind it, making the back end of the brake bolt longer.

Here's a diagram of the brake bolt section. Not sure if I'm being really dense or what. If I have a set bolt size, and I put the same number of washers at any point in front of the fork, it shouldn't make any difference whether they are behind or in front of the set screw. The brake will move by the distance of the washers regardless of where I put them. I'm just removing washers from one place and putting them somewhere else. The bolt still has 27mm - Xmm of washers regardless. How does this get me any more length? Sorry if I'm not seeing something obvious here...

Or, you can replace the left side pivot nut with a flat one so you can get the brake bolt further into the fork.

This might be something to try, though I think there is a bolt that reaches the end of that nut, so both would have to get shorter.

On the brake nut, if you have 13mm inside, I'd want a 13mm nut. I wouldn't want any more than that, because the fork isn't made to be tightened down on the inner shoulder - make sure it is short enough to tighten against the outer shoulder.

Probably best practice. However, I never actually torqued the whole setup to the recommended 10nm. I wonder how much more thread might be engaged at that point, and whether it is enough for a 14mm or if I should stick with 12mm. What harm do you see in torquing it down on the inner shelf vs. the top one? Heck if it "wears down" slightly, that might be a good thing for thread engagement. Or are we worried about structural integrity of the fork?

[sfhbike]

By the way, here's the whole parts diagram for reference. Bottom one is front brake:

[Kontact]

Originally Posted by sfhbike

Here's a diagram of the brake bolt section. Not sure if I'm being really dense or what. If I have a set bolt size, and I put the same number of washers at any point in front of the fork, it shouldn't make any difference whether they are behind or in front of the set screw. The brake will move by the distance of the washers regardless of where I put them. I'm just removing washers from one place and putting them somewhere else. The bolt still has 27mm - Xmm of washers regardless. How does this get me any more length? Sorry if I'm not seeing something obvious here...





This might be something to try, though I think there is a bolt that reaches the end of that nut, so both would have to get shorter. The only thing you could possibly due with that is to use a thinner washer in place of the BR-SR004 one between the black section and BR-SR030, a long as it didn't mess with the non-threaded sections of the brake bolt.


Probably best practice. However, I never actually torqued the whole setup to the recommended 10nm. I wonder how much more thread might be engaged at that point, and whether it is enough for a 14mm or if I should stick with 12mm. What harm do you see in torquing it down on the inner shelf vs. the top one? Heck if it "wears down" slightly, that might be a good thing for thread engagement. Or are we worried about structural integrity of the fork?

No, my idea with the brake bolt won't work now that I see the diagram. I was hoping it had a nut on the front end, too. Never mind.

Getting your brake bolt to max length, using the thinnest possible additional washer under the star washer and/or reducing the left pivot bolt and nuts are your best avenues.

[sfhbike]

Originally Posted by Kontact

No, my idea with the brake bolt won't work now that I see the diagram. I was hoping it had a nut on the front end, too. Never mind.

Getting your brake bolt to max length, using the thinnest possible additional washer under the star washer and/or reducing the left pivot bolt and nuts are your best avenues.

Agreed. Thanks for all the feedback and sticking with this thread. I'll probably buy both 12mm and 14mm nuts and see what I can do. But I am definitely puzzled as to why I'm the only one dealing with this issue.

[Kontact]

..

[Kontact]

Originally Posted by sfhbike

Agreed. Thanks for all the feedback and sticking with this thread. I'll probably buy both 12mm and 14mm nuts and see what I can do. But I am definitely puzzled as to why I'm the only one dealing with this issue.

Probably because when most people insert the nut they don't consider if it is engaging enough threads or not.

[cadence90]

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[sfhbike]

Originally Posted by cadence90

Did Jeremiah at Moots state that the 12mm recessed nut alone definitely resolved the issue, or just that he was suggesting trying that approach?

I don't think he was suggesting it would really "resolve" my issue, just that this is what the fork was spec'd for. He pretty much acknowledged that it would get "over the 5mm" engagement recommended by Shimano, which only uses one serrated washer, but that since Campy says 6 threads and I need two washers, "Unfortunately sometimes with Campagnolo we have weird issues like this come up because their dimensions can fall outside of the industry standard (shimano)." . . . His exact words were "If it was my fork I would try a 12mm nut, the minimum width of washers required to not have the brake contact the fork and see if I was sufficed with the amount of thread engagement." Basically, try it and see if it will make you happy. And this fork likes Shimano more than Campy.

And...you're certain that the front brake bolt (BR-SR004) was never shortened by somebody, for some reason? People do weird stuff, sometimes.
.

It's 27mm and the end looks very intact, so doubtful.

[Kontact]

Originally Posted by sfhbike

I don't think he was suggesting it would really "resolve" my issue, just that this is what the fork was spec'd for. He pretty much acknowledged that it would get "over the 5mm" engagement recommended by Shimano, which only uses one serrated washer, but that since Campy says 6 threads and I need two washers, "Unfortunately sometimes with Campagnolo we have weird issues like this come up because their dimensions can fall outside of the industry standard (shimano)." . . . His exact words were "If it was my fork I would try a 12mm nut, the minimum width of washers required to not have the brake contact the fork and see if I was sufficed with the amount of thread engagement." Basically, try it and see if it will make you happy. And this fork likes Shimano more than Campy.



It's 27mm and the end looks very intact, so doubtful.

I doubt Campy brake bolts are made of something different than Shimano's. I'd use the shorter Shimano standard.

[beeatnik]

Best thread ever! Can you guys help me with my fork issue? Jebediah lost interest after 2 emails.

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showt...ighlight=moots

[m_sasso]

If you want to use the fork purchase yourself an 8mm bottom drill bit increase the depth of the brake recess bolt hole 3mm, purchase yourself the longest brake recess bolt usable 2mm shorter than the depth of the recess bolt hole. You will net your required threaded depth and you will not die. The shouldered recess bolt and remaining fork material will support the brakes adequately.

Done!

[sfhbike]

Originally Posted by m_sasso

If you want to use the fork purchase yourself an 8mm bottom drill bit increase the depth of the brake recess bolt hole 3mm, purchase yourself the longest brake recess bolt usable 2mm shorter than the depth of the recess bolt hole. You will net your required threaded depth and you will not die. The shouldered recess bolt and remaining fork material will support the brakes adequately.

Done!

I don't think that's a bad idea if it comes to that. It's crossed my mind several times as a decent solution. Even after drilling, there will be more material there than my EDGE fork has between the brake and nut.

[m_sasso]

If you have any hesitations give Mike Lopez a call and let us know what he says. Then go ride your bike!

[sfhbike]

Originally Posted by m_sasso

If you have any hesitations give Mike Lopez a call and let us know what he says. Then go ride your bike!

Sorry, who is that? And what's his number.

[sokyroadie]

Originally Posted by m_sasso

If you want to use the fork purchase yourself an 8mm bottom drill bit increase the depth of the brake recess bolt hole 3mm, purchase yourself the longest brake recess bolt usable 2mm shorter than the depth of the recess bolt hole. You will net your required threaded depth and you will not die. The shouldered recess bolt and remaining fork material will support the brakes adequately.

Done!

Modifying carbon easy fix and perfectly fine IMHO for this application.