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Clear Coating Older Frame?
The LeMond Washoe thread got me thinking about my Poprad frame. I was going to sell it, but it’s such a great riding frame that I now think I will keep it and build it up as my “all-road” bike. I just gave the frame a re-application of Frame Saver and a thorough cleaning. The base paint is in near perfect shape, but the factory clear coat is very thin. It barely covers the decals. Can the frame be prepped and re-clear coated? Is this a job for a pro, or can it be done by a detail-oriented amateur (me)? What preparation is required? All suggestions appreciated!
Thanks, Greg |
#2
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clear is hard to shoot, and get to look good. i think if you as an amateur tried to do it for the first time at home, you would stand a very good chance of making the bike look worse than it does now.
consider just using a good quality automotive wax and applying it a few times a year. if you keep the base paint clean and free of abrasive materials, and a good coat of wax on the painted surfaces, you should be more than good to go for years. alternatively, there are nano type ceramic coatings that are supposedly pretty good these days that might be an option. check this out: https://www.bicyclearmor.com/
__________________
http://less-than-epic.blogspot.com/ |
#3
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Greg |
#4
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Not a direct answer but a similar situation. I have a Fondriest that was painted gloss black and gloss clear coated but the rear stays were carbon with a clear gloss coat as was the fork. I sent everything to The Color Factory in New Jersey who painted the fork and stays black. They then applied matte clear over everything. It turned out excellent and I was pleased. Total cost including return shipping to PA was $150.00 +/- a couple of bucks
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#5
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Groody Brothers did a powder and clear coat for me. If you reach out to them, they might be willing to do just a clear coat.
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#6
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Color Factory NJ Details
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#7
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I recently stripped, repainted and clear coated an older Lemond Carbon/Ti frame that I had, to build up as a commuter bike. I tried to do this as cheap as possible, so used regular hardware store Acetone to strip the original damaged paintwork, removed all decals etc, then re-sprayed with Montana canned spray paint, and then clear coated using Spraymax automative can spray clear coat (it was the 2k matte, plunger catalyst type I think), bought from Amazon.
Really this was just all because I had no real use / value in the frameset and I just wanted to try the process for myself to see how it would come out, and then maybe pay the pro's to re-do it later (or do that with a different build to compare the two). But I was actually surprised at how easy the whole process was, especially given I'd had zero previous spraypaint experience, and I was just doing it in my basement and yard with a very primitive setup, and no spray gun - just the regular nozzles on the cans. The only real stumbling block I ran into was that the clear coat went on a lot thicker than the paint layers, and so I got a couple of runs in tricky areas in the joins of the frame, but overall it was a pretty good finish given the cost and time involved. Very interested to see what someone like Color Factory in NJ could do, as I'd enquired with some of the high-end paint places around NYC that specialize in bike / motorbike paint, and other than some automative spots that would do a fairly cheap powder coat (not what I want anyway), the lowest price I got for a single basic color of my choice and either a matte or gloss clear coat were still north of $800! Totally understand that you get what you pay for, but there doesn't seem to be a middle ground between doing it yourself or going to the top pros... |
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The clear coat was from SprayMax, 1K clear Acrylic. Tried to post pictures, not working out for me. |
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My turn around has always been less than a month and the finish is as good as a factory finish, not a Joe Bell, or Paint by Todd but 90% as good for 25% of the cost. |
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__________________
http://less-than-epic.blogspot.com/ |
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#12
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Havent read anything of what the other guys said. The short answer is yes, you can... sand it with 600 grit wet sand paper, be carefull at the edges like lugs and stuff because in those areas the paint is thinner... apply 2 coats of clear and good to go. Obviously urethane car clear.
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#13
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They don't ride any better looking good. Keep it, ride it and enjoy the ride.
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