#16
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#17
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If you are running Sram 10s road, you could use a Sram Mtb rear derailleur which should allow you to run a little bigger cassette than a 11-34. You just need to make sure the derailleur you choose works with your shifters. Of course switching to 11 or 12 speed would open up wider cassette range options, but I'm not sure what it would offer in terms of tandem cranks.
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#18
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Not sure if the shift levers can 'see' the rear der on a tandem, with etap..not sure of the distances involved. Not sure how you use a sram rear der, but have a triple...Do you have a shimano or Campag LH shifter? No sram drop bar LH shifters are a triple. Pretty sure. BUT, I'd get a 26 or even 24t small ring..do that first and see if it accomplished what you want by riding the bike. If not, then investigate a bigger cogset.
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Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo Last edited by oldpotatoe; 03-27-2023 at 06:38 AM. |
#19
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You may want to check out the Co-Motion website and see what they offer on the newest latest and greatest. They know about tandem gearing.
Tandem gearing is a compromise. You probably don't want big jumps in the gearing. As a tandem team we all have a sweet spot in cadence so see if you can give up any of your gearing to gain on the cassette on the top or bottom end. I think dropping to a 26 or 24 front ring saves your middle and big ring gearing but the shifting won't be any better to the small ring so beware. We have a Ultegra 10 speed midcage derailleur and with a wolfstooth use cassettes from 11-28 thru 12-36 with no problems. |
#20
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I am using an old Campy Centaur triple shifter on the front. It works pretty well and has lasted a long time.
I went ahead ordered a 12-36 cassette since it will give a lower gear than changing the front to a 26. I can always do that later if needed. If it doesn't work I will add a RoadLink. I did look at Comotion and they are using 50/34 compact cranks with 11-34 cassette, so the lowest gear is 34/34. Also looked at Calfee and they are showing Ligtning cranks, would love some of those but it's $2,000 for a set. Going to 11 speed only adds an 11T cog which I don't need. 12 speed would add one more gear. Thanks to all who replied. |
#21
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Our CoMotion came with Ultegra Di2, a 50-34 CoMotion branded (FSA) crank and an 11-40 cassette. The RD manages the wide range cassette without any difficulty, despite being rated to only a 34 tooth largest cog.
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#22
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Nevermind my idea.
Last edited by BRad704; 03-28-2023 at 11:41 AM. |
#23
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Pic and source for clarity: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q...ur/24681#24681 |
#24
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#25
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I decided to order the 12-36 cassette which I now have.
There could be a problem with chain wrap capacity though. I figured going from a 34T to 36T adds about 1 inch of chain length so I am going to add a link to the chain. I might be able to not do that but afraid in the big - big combo its going to be really stretched although its a gear I would not normally use but could accidentally shift into it. On a tandem its harder to keep track which gear you are in. This could result in the chain being too loose when on the 28T chainring. But we only use the maybe the top 4 cogs in that case. Looking at the current setup it looks like it might work. I will know later today after I install it. |
#26
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On our newer Co-motion tandem we got an FSA 48/32 compact crank, which I paired with an 11-34 Ultegra 11spd cassette (and long cage Athena 11spd RD). Not much lower, but a little bit lower than 1:1. Its been sufficient so far. Shifting the subcompact rings in front is better than the 52/42/30 on our other tandem, but gives up some range.
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#27
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It takes 4 teeth to use up an inch, but any extra teeth requires checking the length. The chain length formula at parktool.com will tell you how much extra you might have.
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#28
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Oops I meant to say 32T to 36T.
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#29
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Nothing wrong with adding enough chain to make big to big work, and running the small front to "smaller" cogs a little slack. Don't use them anyway, and it may help keeping the RD upper pulley off the big rear cog.
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#30
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I ended up putting on a 12-36 cassette.
It shifts into the 36T but there is barely enough space for the chain between the 36T cog and jockey wheel and the RD is angled behind rear wheel. Had to adjust the B-screw way in. I decided to try a Roadlink and installed it today. I think it puts the RD into better position. Took it for a short test ride and it seems to be shifting good. Looking forward to trying this out on a real ride. |
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