Help me identify what's causing the tink

[NHAero]

Originally Posted by Ralph

I have had that problem before when the next to smallest cog wasn't on right and then tightened by lockring. Cog could move slightly under load.

It's happening on the larger cogs in this case.

[Ralph]

Also when the crank arm would hit FD cable end that was a little too long.

[NHAero]

Originally Posted by Ralph

Also when the crank arm would hit FD cable end that was a little too long.

Yes, see post #13. Shouldn't not happen in some cogs but not others.

[warren128]

With regard to ticking (in my case, clanking), here's what happened to me recently. 20 miles into a 32 mile ride, my bike started to make a somewhat loud metallic clanking. When it started, I immediately stopped and checked everything out. Nothing seemed amiss upon static examination, so I rode off. The clank was definite back and it seemed interesting that when I rode uphill, it was silent. When I rode on the flats, sometimes it was louder than other times. I thought it sounded like it was coming from the front hub, yet when I stopped and lifted up the front end, and spun the front wheel, it spun freely and silently. I got back on the bike and it would start again. When I got home, I took the front wheel off and turned the front axle with my fingers, it felt smooth. The wheelset is a Fulcrum Zero. I took apart the front hub, and found that the grease was very thin and old, but the bearings and cones looked good upon examination. I repacked the hub bearings, and put the hub back together. After that, silence and bliss. I'm guessing that the dead grease was causing the bearings/races, and cones to misbehave with each other which caused the clanking noise.

One week later, my bike started clanking from the rear of the bike, and because of my previous experience with the front hub, I thought to myself, "Oh no! Now the rear hub needs an overhaul too!" It turns out that while resting my bike against a wall, my seat stay mounted taillight was knocked askew, and the nylon strap that was holding it was positioned just into the path of the spokes. This caused the clanking effect on the aluminum bladed spokes in the same way that kids used to clip a playing card to the wheel to make a motor sound. I was amused and relieved that I didn't have to overhaul the rear hub yet.

[camelbackkid]

Originally Posted by NHAero

Can't hear it in the stand, so I think it requires some power to be exerted.

In that case I agree with what someone else advised about checking the seat. I've found noises to often originate from places other than those I initially suspect, especially while riding. Tinks are tricky like that. It's worth checking the headset as well.

[Hilltopperny]

Originally Posted by NHAero

Good question. I will check!

Edit: Yup, it's tight.

Mine was tight as well, but it was definitely the culprit on more than one occasion. I had swapped BBs, checked rings, seat rails and all of the other above things! It did not make the noise in the stand, but did exactly what you are describing while on the bikes.

If you have another wheel that is compatible try it and see if the noise is still there! If not then tighten the seemingly tight cassette you have on the bike a little bit more. I am willing to bet this is your issue! On both occasions my cassette did not show any play at all, but with a little more torque the noise went away both times!

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[classtimesailer]

Change the orientation of your cranks on the spindle and see if the timing of your tink changes. Some tinks at the chainring bolts don’t go away unless you back them all off and re-torque.

[tellyho]

I generally start swapping things out after I hit the obvious. Different cranks, different wheels, different seatpost/saddle.

[Turkle]

My latest mystery noise on the bike turned out to be the Di2 battery that had fallen out of the seatpost.

[Mikej]

Pedal

[weisan]

Is it coming from your knee, Aero pal?

It may seem i am joking but with a previous injury, I walked with a clicking sound.

[glepore]

I had a click that seemed to be when the ds crank passed the fd cage. Thought it was touching, but it wasn't. Turned out to be a rear qr that was snug but not "tight" tight.

[NHAero]

Originally Posted by glepore

I had a click that seemed to be when the ds crank passed the fd cage. Thought it was touching, but it wasn't. Turned out to be a rear qr that was snug but not "tight" tight.

You folks are really a symphony of knowledge and experience!
This is a thru axle bike. I'm about to go out with a different rear wheel and see if the click/tink remains.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by warren128

With regard to ticking (in my case, clanking), here's what happened to me recently. 20 miles into a 32 mile ride, my bike started to make a somewhat loud metallic clanking. When it started, I immediately stopped and checked everything out. Nothing seemed amiss upon static examination, so I rode off. The clank was definite back and it seemed interesting that when I rode uphill, it was silent. When I rode on the flats, sometimes it was louder than other times. I thought it sounded like it was coming from the front hub, yet when I stopped and lifted up the front end, and spun the front wheel, it spun freely and silently. I got back on the bike and it would start again. When I got home, I took the front wheel off and turned the front axle with my fingers, it felt smooth. The wheelset is a Fulcrum Zero. I took apart the front hub, and found that the grease was very thin and old, but the bearings and cones looked good upon examination. I repacked the hub bearings, and put the hub back together. After that, silence and bliss. I'm guessing that the dead grease was causing the bearings/races, and cones to misbehave with each other which caused the clanking noise.

I've experienced this but only with loose ball hubs, not when bearing retainers were used (allowing gaps between the balls). After the bearing grease is depleted, there isn't much to keep the balls from rolling between the gaps between balls. What I found is that as the wheel turned, the loose bearings would roll up and over the top of the bearing, and then as it started down the other side of the bearing it would fall the short distance down the gap to the next bearing, making a "tink" sound as it hit the next bearing. I've only experienced this on loose bearing hubs, not on cartridge bearings, which typically have a fairly tight bearing retainer.

[jemoryl]

Leg or shoe brushing against the part of the FD cable that extends beyond the cable clamping bolt? Had this once on a Campy setup, don't know what yours looks like.