etap questions on compatibility

[R3awak3n]

Originally Posted by bikinchris

That wasn't my point. People talk **** about stuff they know little about. "I heard that SRAM doesn't do this well." is a bunch of crap. If you have seen it and done it, fine. If you learned from it, great. If you didn't, go back and teach yourself. Today, there are resources to learn how to do things right. I spend a little time every night working on my mechanical knowledge. I am NOT perfect and far from it. But passing along rumors doesn't do anyone any good.

For instance, I spent a long time tonight trying to get better at setting up the long arm Shimano front derailleur.

In other words, I strive to be a better mechanic for my customers daily.

Its not a rumour. Do a little research on the internet and you will see what I am talking about. Just because you dont have the problem does. Ot mean it does not exist. I think its due to frame/crank and where its placed according to rd since some have no problems and others do.

Also I just said it was finicky not that it was crap. I really like the system and have sang it praises many times

[mdeth1313]

Originally Posted by Bob Ross

I was told by a reputable dealer [] that eTap requires SRAM's "22-series" cranksets* due to chainring spacing. Not sure whether SRAM 10-speed cranks/chainrings are any closer, but Shimano 10-speed cranks/chainrings definitely would not work.

*Doesn't have to be Red 22, can be Force 22 ...which is what I did.

This is crap. I've been running etap on 2 bikes with THM Cranks - clavicula classic and clavicula SE and the shifting has been flawless. Go over to WW and look at some of the bikes - they're not all using sram 22-series cranks.

[Bob Ross]

Originally Posted by mdeth1313

This is crap.

Glad I didn't spring for the Red 22 crankset then!

[R3awak3n]

there are people running etap with all sorts of cranks, campy, shimano, no problems on either.

[batman1425]

Originally Posted by bikinchris

A lot of people really suck at bike mechanic skills. I have seen it for 40 years. I see it on the answers on this board. The setup marks on eTap (and all SRAM) are marked on the front derailleur itself. It's not a sticker like on Shimano. It's not hard.
If people suck at setting up the low stop, you can even mount the anti drop device on eTap they made for the ham handed (to use on the) mechanical groups.

I haven't set up a ton of FD, but a fair number and most of them Sram. In my hands, ETap seemed more sensitive to misalignment during install in the yaw axis. Even when the limits are set correctly (according to manuf. guidelines), if it is "toe in or out" a little too much, that seemed to manifest itself as under and over shifting. That said, it wasn't THAT hard to work out what the issue was and some very small tweaks to alignment solved the issues. The guide marks are a good place to start, but in my experience you might have to go a touch proud on one side or the other depending on chainstay length to get it dialed.

[glepore]

Yes, the yaw setup is critical, as is the height. The difficulty with the yaw setup is the parallax when trying to view the line. Mine works great, but others have had issues. Lots of older braze on bikes can have hangers that don't play well with compacts and etap as well.

[Hakkalugi]

I have no issues with eTap front derailleurs and FSA compact cranks. On my 50/34 the alignment marks are set correctly and it shifts just fine. Interestingly, on my 46/30 rings, it works perfectly with the alignment marks set way too high. I messed with it for hours to get it to shift, before raising the derailleur incrementally until it shifted well on the stand. Since then, no issues in hundreds of hours of rough gravel riding.