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  #1  
Old 04-19-2019, 09:17 AM
Jeff N. Jeff N. is offline
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FULCRUM Racing Zero CARBON Clinchers

Anyone riding these? If so....ya like 'em? Was thinking about pulling the trigger on a pair. Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 04-19-2019, 11:35 AM
82Picchio 82Picchio is offline
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I have owned a pair for two years and have ridden them just a handful of times. I can't even remember whether the freehub is Shimano or Campy. If you're interested, I can let them go at a friendly price.
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  #3  
Old 04-19-2019, 06:38 PM
Jef58 Jef58 is offline
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Yes, they are nice wheels. Campagnolo quality hubs and rims in a different design from the Bora 35. I look at it like a carbon version of the Shamal. I don't see any downside of riding these wheels compared to any of the other Campy offerings.
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  #4  
Old 04-20-2019, 01:40 AM
zmalwo zmalwo is offline
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Racing 0 carbon only saves 30g per rim comparing to the Racing Speed 40C. I wonder if it's really worth the aerodynamic disadvantage going from 40mm to 30mm rims for 30g.
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  #5  
Old 04-20-2019, 10:00 AM
Jeff N. Jeff N. is offline
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I also notice that the spokes are larger on the Zeros.
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  #6  
Old 04-20-2019, 11:02 AM
Jef58 Jef58 is offline
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Yes, aluminum like the Eurus has. They are not as bad in the crosswinds as a 40mm wheel. I've had both and prefer the 30-35mm wheels. They are more of an all arounder. The Racing Speed 40 is on the Ultra version while the Racing 0 has the USB bearings...if that makes a difference. I'm not fast enough to take advantage of the speed differences of deep wheels so that is my rational for that. Muffinman has 2 sets of Bora Ultras for sale that look like a good deal. If I didn't have my Racing zeros, I would be buying Ryun's Bora tubulars or Muffinman's Ultra 35's. I haven'y ridden tubulars in over 12 years, but something like a tubular on a nice high end carbon wheel sounds pretty good...fast or not.
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  #7  
Old 04-20-2019, 12:06 PM
Jeff N. Jeff N. is offline
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Originally Posted by Jef58 View Post
Yes, aluminum like the Eurus has. They are not as bad in the crosswinds as a 40mm wheel. I've had both and prefer the 30-35mm wheels. They are more of an all arounder. The Racing Speed 40 is on the Ultra version while the Racing 0 has the USB bearings...if that makes a difference. I'm not fast enough to take advantage of the speed differences of deep wheels so that is my rational for that. Muffinman has 2 sets of Bora Ultras for sale that look like a good deal. If I didn't have my Racing zeros, I would be buying Ryun's Bora tubulars or Muffinman's Ultra 35's. I haven'y ridden tubulars in over 12 years, but something like a tubular on a nice high end carbon wheel sounds pretty good...fast or not.
Tubulars don't interest me...just sayin'.
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  #8  
Old 04-20-2019, 02:05 PM
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fignon's barber fignon's barber is offline
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IMO, I don't think there's much difference between a well designed 35mm wheel and a 45mm with regard to aerodynamics.
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  #9  
Old 04-20-2019, 02:29 PM
Drmojo Drmojo is offline
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Exclamation Nooo

friends don’t let friends ride
carbon clinchers!
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  #10  
Old 04-20-2019, 03:02 PM
Jeff N. Jeff N. is offline
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Originally Posted by Drmojo View Post
friends don’t let friends ride
carbon clinchers!
It seems to me, anyway, (and I might be DEAD wrong) that tubulars really only have a place in high-level racing. I do Centuries. What is the process of changing out a flat, on the side of the road, with tubulars compared to clinchers?

Last edited by Jeff N.; 04-20-2019 at 03:13 PM.
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  #11  
Old 04-20-2019, 09:07 PM
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fa63 fa63 is offline
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You could carry sealant (which is not guaranteed to seal the puncture), or a pre-glued spare tubular.

That said, clinchers are really good these days.
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  #12  
Old 04-21-2019, 07:50 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff N. View Post
It seems to me, anyway, (and I might be DEAD wrong) that tubulars really only have a place in high-level racing. I do Centuries. What is the process of changing out a flat, on the side of the road, with tubulars compared to clinchers?
First, all things being equal, you flat less on a tubular because the chances of a pinch flat are much, much smaller. Second, you carry a pre glued spare..get a flat, take old tire off, put new tire on..pump up, finish century.
With clinchers, find what punctured you, change or patch tube and finish century. If big tire cut, maybe boot, new tube, finish century.

I ride tubulars everyday, don't own a clincher..certainly not doing any high or low level, racing..I carry a spare tire, I also squirt Orange-Seal into my tubulars also, when I put them on new. I have very, very few flats, like maybe 1-2 a year..I wear the tires out way more often than puncture.
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  #13  
Old 04-21-2019, 08:10 AM
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fignon's barber fignon's barber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fa63 View Post
You could carry sealant (which is not guaranteed to seal the puncture), or a pre-glued spare tubular.
.


……..or you can just do this:
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  #14  
Old 04-21-2019, 09:06 AM
Jeff N. Jeff N. is offline
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Originally Posted by oldpotatoe View Post
First, all things being equal, you flat less on a tubular because the chances of a pinch flat are much, much smaller. Second, you carry a pre glued spare..get a flat, take old tire off, put new tire on..pump up, finish century.
With clinchers, find what punctured you, change or patch tube and finish century. If big tire cut, maybe boot, new tube, finish century.

I ride tubulars everyday, don't own a clincher..certainly not doing any high or low level, racing..I carry a spare tire, I also squirt Orange-Seal into my tubulars also, when I put them on new. I have very, very few flats, like maybe 1-2 a year..I wear the tires out way more often than puncture.
Thanks! I took a look at a youtube video too and it looked pretty straight forward...maybe a slight learning curve. How about the cost of a tubular tire vs. an inner tube?
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  #15  
Old 04-21-2019, 09:55 AM
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tsarpepe tsarpepe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff N. View Post
T How about the cost of a tubular tire vs. an inner tube?
I think you know the answer to that question...
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