Need help removing older square taper BB

[jds108]

1- Each collar is going to have 3 allen screws. Those are 2mm allen, IIRC. If only your drive side cup has the holes to access those set screws, then rotate the spindle while looking through the hole until you see the set screw. Loosen all three set screws a bit, say a half turn after you break each loose.
2- Use a rubber or plastic mallet and tap out the spindle, hitting on the drive side as that's the side with the collar that can slip off. The spindle can slip completely out of the bb/frame while the cups stay screwed into the frame.
3- Once you've done that you can spray some penetrating oil inside the frame if you'd like (to help break the bond between the cup and frame threading).
4- You'll find that you may want the spindle in the bb as a way to help secure your cup tool onto the flats of the bb. Your tool is going to slide off a bit too easily if it's like mine. So put the spindle in place, put the cup removal tool on, then use a bunch of washers on both sides of the spindle so that you can screw the two bb bolts into place finger-tight so that the washers on the drive side prevent the bb tool from slipping off. If you do that, you can actually whack the end of your cup removal wrench with your hammer/mallet to loosen the cup.

Or just take it to a shop, but this is what they should do. Hopefully somebody there is familiar with the bb. Otherwise they may try to take off the cups while the collars are still fastened with the set screws, which will scratch up the spindle.

If you're going to re-use the bb, replace the cartridge bearings if there is the even the hint of roughness, as those are common and cheap bearings, the 6903 model.

[charliedid]

Originally Posted by PacNW2Ford

The spindle can be adjusted side to side to dial in chainline. The set screws fix it to the collars, which are then located by the cups.

This ^

[charliedid]

Originally Posted by jds108

1- Each collar is going to have 3 allen screws. Those are 2mm allen, IIRC. If only your drive side cup has the holes to access those set screws, then rotate the spindle while looking through the hole until you see the set screw. Loosen all three set screws a bit, say a half turn after you break each loose.
2- Use a rubber or plastic mallet and tap out the spindle, hitting on the drive side as that's the side with the collar that can slip off. The spindle can slip completely out of the bb/frame while the cups stay screwed into the frame.
3- Once you've done that you can spray some penetrating oil inside the frame if you'd like (to help break the bond between the cup and frame threading).
4- You'll find that you may want the spindle in the bb as a way to help secure your cup tool onto the flats of the bb. Your tool is going to slide off a bit too easily if it's like mine. So put the spindle in place, put the cup removal tool on, then use a bunch of washers on both sides of the spindle so that you can screw the two bb bolts into place finger-tight so that the washers on the drive side prevent the bb tool from slipping off. If you do that, you can actually whack the end of your cup removal wrench with your hammer/mallet to loosen the cup.

Or just take it to a shop, but this is what they should do. Hopefully somebody there is familiar with the bb. Otherwise they may try to take off the cups while the collars are still fastened with the set screws, which will scratch up the spindle.

If you're going to re-use the bb, replace the cartridge bearings if there is the even the hint of roughness, as those are common and cheap bearings, the 6903 model.

And really This ^

Great explanation...

[PacNW2Ford]

When I repurposed mine, I had the late, great VeloCult shop hot rod it with Phil Wood bearings. I had a fun conversation with the Whites at NAHBS in Sacramento about using the Phantom BBs in the 90’s. Good people. I have three sets of their modern hubs. 28 years of using their stuff!

[NHAero]

Great explanation, thanks very much. Never have seen one of these. Who made them?

Originally Posted by jds108

1- Each collar is going to have 3 allen screws. Those are 2mm allen, IIRC. If only your drive side cup has the holes to access those set screws, then rotate the spindle while looking through the hole until you see the set screw. Loosen all three set screws a bit, say a half turn after you break each loose.
2- Use a rubber or plastic mallet and tap out the spindle, hitting on the drive side as that's the side with the collar that can slip off. The spindle can slip completely out of the bb/frame while the cups stay screwed into the frame.
3- Once you've done that you can spray some penetrating oil inside the frame if you'd like (to help break the bond between the cup and frame threading).
4- You'll find that you may want the spindle in the bb as a way to help secure your cup tool onto the flats of the bb. Your tool is going to slide off a bit too easily if it's like mine. So put the spindle in place, put the cup removal tool on, then use a bunch of washers on both sides of the spindle so that you can screw the two bb bolts into place finger-tight so that the washers on the drive side prevent the bb tool from slipping off. If you do that, you can actually whack the end of your cup removal wrench with your hammer/mallet to loosen the cup.

Or just take it to a shop, but this is what they should do. Hopefully somebody there is familiar with the bb. Otherwise they may try to take off the cups while the collars are still fastened with the set screws, which will scratch up the spindle.

If you're going to re-use the bb, replace the cartridge bearings if there is the even the hint of roughness, as those are common and cheap bearings, the 6903 model.

[PacNW2Ford]

White Industries

[cueoner]

Originally Posted by jds108

1- Each collar is going to have 3 allen screws. Those are 2mm allen, IIRC. If only your drive side cup has the holes to access those set screws, then rotate the spindle while looking through the hole until you see the set screw. Loosen all three set screws a bit, say a half turn after you break each loose.
2- Use a rubber or plastic mallet and tap out the spindle, hitting on the drive side as that's the side with the collar that can slip off. The spindle can slip completely out of the bb/frame while the cups stay screwed into the frame.
3- Once you've done that you can spray some penetrating oil inside the frame if you'd like (to help break the bond between the cup and frame threading).
4- You'll find that you may want the spindle in the bb as a way to help secure your cup tool onto the flats of the bb. Your tool is going to slide off a bit too easily if it's like mine. So put the spindle in place, put the cup removal tool on, then use a bunch of washers on both sides of the spindle so that you can screw the two bb bolts into place finger-tight so that the washers on the drive side prevent the bb tool from slipping off. If you do that, you can actually whack the end of your cup removal wrench with your hammer/mallet to loosen the cup.

Or just take it to a shop, but this is what they should do. Hopefully somebody there is familiar with the bb. Otherwise they may try to take off the cups while the collars are still fastened with the set screws, which will scratch up the spindle.

If you're going to re-use the bb, replace the cartridge bearings if there is the even the hint of roughness, as those are common and cheap bearings, the 6903 model.

@jds108 thanks so much! Awesome explanation and tips.

I didn't realize there were 3 screws, I thought it was only 2. I unscrewed all 3 and I was able to remove the spindle.

I'm going to pick up some Aerokroil penetrating oil next, and then was thinking of doing exactly what you said - using washers around the spindle and using the crank bolt to keep the Park wrench on the collar, and then hammering it loose.

I'm not reusing the bb so im ok if it gets scratched when I remove it.

Thank you!

[NHAero]

Thank you. I shoulda figured it out since I have two wheelsets with WI hubs which also have teeny 2mm set screws :-)

Originally Posted by PacNW2Ford

White Industries

[ultraman6970]

Never seen that BB before, which brand is it? WI??? How old is it???

[PacNW2Ford]

1990’s White Industries. The Phantom Ti and Phantom SS.

[ultraman6970]

Thanks a lot for the answer, never seen that design ever. A lot of really nice stuff came up in the US back in the mid 80s and 90s that died, looks like this is one of them. Those multicolored fully bolted RD's comes to mind aswell, great design, easy to repair, etc.

[cueoner]

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

One of the mechanics at my LBS had the proper Hanzo tool for this BB at home and was able to remove it in just a few minutes.