#16
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You stole my answer
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#17
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Now that I remember my F1 fork I wonder if this problem has something to do with the headset because my fork was STIFF. Could one of the dropouts be compromised/loose?
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#18
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I don't think so and i sure hope not. My last ride with my previous wheels ended with pulled spoke and busted rear rim which cause me to hit the brakes pretty hard on a down hill lifting the rear wheel in the air. I didn't go down and i doubt the stopping force alone would be enough to damage the fork. I did find the fork to be quite stiff prior to the new wheels so the flex is surprising to me. I will give it a closer examination this evening but so far, aside from the flexing, it feels pretty solid when installing and removing the wheel.
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#19
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If you go with the salmon Kool-Stops, they can be a bit grabby themselves until they have a few stops in.
If you are running vintage stuff (Chorus monoplanars), then toeing in requires a bit more trouble and a bit of aluminum sheet stock. This was prompted by some mild shudder, and it was an effective 'fix'. Those Tb-14 rims are looking less than pristine...
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Old... and in the way. |
#20
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Since the shudder started after an impact that ruined a wheel it may have damaged something in the front end.
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#21
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The salmon pads are less grippy than Kool-Stop's own black pads, so I hesitate to blame these pads.
Perhaps there is some substance on the rim. Have you tried spraying a bit of water on the front wheel before pumping the brake while riding slowly downhill? I ask because I often work on bikes that have sat for a while, and a good running-in of the braking surfaces with some water present generally "normalizes" the surfaces such that I can then evaluate whether the pads are still any good or have age-hardened. Without using some water, the braking surfaces can take quite a while to "normalize" I have found. Don't speed up with the rim still wet or the dreaded black water my fly up on your clothes! |
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