Fork Chatter

[blindwilly]

I recently got a new wheel set and immediately noticed my front fork flexing and "chattering" much more than i previously had. The new rims are the H+ sons tb14 which are quite a bit wider than the older ksyriums. Could the increased width result in increased brake power which is causing my fork to flex? Could it just be that the new brake surface is clean and that's why the brakes feel grabbier? The fork is a Serotta F1 which, before the new wheels, i noticed no flex at all. Has anyone had an experience similar to this? is the fork flex anything i should be concerned with?

[thwart]

Originally Posted by blindwilly

I recently got a new wheel set and immediately noticed my front fork flexing and "chattering" much more than i previously had. The new rims are the H+ sons tb14 which are quite a bit wider than the older ksyriums. Could the increased width result in increased brake power which is causing my fork to flex? Could it just be that the new brake surface is clean and that's why the brakes feel grabbier? The fork is a Serotta F1 which, before the new wheels, i noticed no flex at all. Has anyone had an experience similar to this? is the fork flex anything i should be concerned with?

My tb14's are the anodized version. The coating is kind of grabby until it's worn in a bit. This can certainly cause some fork shudder.

FWIW, I'm using salmon Kool-Stop pads.

At about 1K miles of use this 'problem' is pretty well gone.

I also ride a set of anodized Mavic Reflex tubulars. Similar experience with these, although not quite to this degree.

[rowebr]

Originally Posted by blindwilly

I recently got a new wheel set and immediately noticed my front fork flexing and "chattering" much more than i previously had. The new rims are the H+ sons tb14 which are quite a bit wider than the older ksyriums. Could the increased width result in increased brake power which is causing my fork to flex? Could it just be that the new brake surface is clean and that's why the brakes feel grabbier? The fork is a Serotta F1 which, before the new wheels, i noticed no flex at all. Has anyone had an experience similar to this? is the fork flex anything i should be concerned with?

I fixed one case of serious fork chatter simply by switching to new Kool-Stop salmon brake pads. Definitely worth trying. You can also experiment with changing the degree of brake pad toe-in.

[Ken Robb]

Originally Posted by thwart

My tb14's are the anodized version. The coating is kind of grabby until it's worn in a bit. This can certainly cause some fork shudder.

FWIW, I'm using salmon Kool-Stop pads.

At about 1K miles of use this 'problem' is pretty well gone.

I also ride a set of anodized Mavic Reflex tubulars. Similar experience with these, although not quite to this degree.

Do you think lightly sanding the brake tracks would remove the grabby surface?

[blindwilly]

Originally Posted by rowebr

I fixed one case of serious fork chatter simply by switching to new Kool-Stop salmon brake pads. Definitely worth trying. You can also experiment with changing the degree of brake pad toe-in.

Originally Posted by thwart

My tb14's are the anodized version. The coating is kind of grabby until it's worn in a bit. This can certainly cause some fork shudder.

FWIW, I'm using salmon Kool-Stop pads.

At about 1K miles of use this 'problem' is pretty well gone.

I also ride a set of anodized Mavic Reflex tubulars. Similar experience with these, although not quite to this degree.

i bought the wheels used off of a list member. They are the grey anodized versions but the brake track seems to be pretty well broken in. I will try some kool stop pads and adjustment of the toe in. its not big deal but it is a little sketchy when trying to stop quickly on a down hill.

[thwart]

Originally Posted by Ken Robb

Do you think lightly sanding the brake tracks would remove the grabby surface?

Probably would, Ken.

But you'd have to use a light hand and some very fine sandpaper or you'd have a nice silver brake track.

And maybe that'd be just as well... seems that one or two rainy rides and a little bit of roadside grit gets you half-way there anyway.

[charliedid]

Same brake pads or new?

[kppolich]

Cantilever brakes?

[pbarry]

Originally Posted by kppolich

Cantilever brakes?

No, Serotta F1 road fork—caliper only.

[rustychisel]

same brakes = same pads = different angle of seating for pads on rims.

Instal a new set of pads and see what happens.

[blindwilly]

Originally Posted by rustychisel

same brakes = same pads = different angle of seating for pads on rims.

Instal a new set of pads and see what happens.

I think you are on to something, new pads it is. The brakes are ultegra 6700. It sounds like kool stops are universally praised. Is there any benefit to salmon vs. black vs. dual? I typically ride in dry conditions.

[Ken Robb]

Originally Posted by thwart

Probably would, Ken.

But you'd have to use a light hand and some very fine sandpaper or you'd have a nice silver brake track.

And maybe that'd be just as well... seems that one or two rainy rides and a little bit of roadside grit gets you half-way there anyway.

What is a rainy ride???

[thwart]

Originally Posted by Ken Robb

What is a rainy ride???

Ken, that is when the snow is actually warm enough to come down as a liquid, and you are silly enough to be out cycling in it.

[Ken Robb]

Originally Posted by thwart

Ken, that is when the snow is actually warm enough to come down as a liquid, and you are silly enough to be out cycling in it.

Bwa-Hah-Hah! Really funny for me since I grew up in Chicago! I even rode motorcycles a few times when there were "clean" ruts in the snow. 20F at 50 mph is COLD!

[cgolvin]

Originally Posted by thwart

... seems that one or two rainy rides and a little bit of roadside grit gets you half-way there anyway.

Just one rainy ride got mine all the way there.
In hindsight I'd have preferred going with the silver ones. </drift>