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  #1  
Old 09-10-2024, 03:15 PM
TronnyJenkins TronnyJenkins is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Denver
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Help! R45D rear hub making infuriating noise...

Friends, I recently purchased*a basically new set of Enve G23s with*R45Ds from a forum member. I converted it to use XDR using a new CK conversion kit. On my first ride, things were great for around 40 miles, then for some reason for the last 15 miles, I had a very annoying creak or pop sound develop. I thought for sure it was the bottom bracket, but I narrowed it down to the rear hub by using my standard road wheel on the same bike and alas, no noise. I took the wheel out and pulled the rotor, preload*adjuster, and then the drive shell to make sure nothing looked wrong and or dirty. It all seemed fine. I put it back together, the noise still persists.

I am happy to get any help or advice regarding this matter. The noise makes riding unbearable. Video evidence below!
I also emailed CK to see if they have suggestions.

https://youtube.com/shorts/RkRFUUZblu4?feature=share
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  #2  
Old 09-10-2024, 03:47 PM
ltwtsculler91 ltwtsculler91 is offline
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Location: Greenwich / Nashville / Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TronnyJenkins View Post
Friends, I recently purchased*a basically new set of Enve G23s with*R45Ds from a forum member. I converted it to use XDR using a new CK conversion kit. On my first ride, things were great for around 40 miles, then for some reason for the last 15 miles, I had a very annoying creak or pop sound develop. I thought for sure it was the bottom bracket, but I narrowed it down to the rear hub by using my standard road wheel on the same bike and alas, no noise. I took the wheel out and pulled the rotor, preload*adjuster, and then the drive shell to make sure nothing looked wrong and or dirty. It all seemed fine. I put it back together, the noise still persists.

I am happy to get any help or advice regarding this matter. The noise makes riding unbearable. Video evidence below!
I also emailed CK to see if they have suggestions.

https://youtube.com/shorts/RkRFUUZblu4?feature=share
I've had this on mine too, never really solved it and the wheels are sitting downstairs waiting in a closet for my next build. My Serotta is rolling with MCFK rims on CarbonTi hubs now, but that's not a real solution.

I'm now worried, as I suspected it was just the preload adjuster and my shop here couldn't figure that out. Mine started after having the bike on a 1UP rack for a while so I figured it was something with that lateral play and preload. The other check I'd do is if the free hub is dry as my Zipps got noisy and popped like that when the freehub/driveside bearings got washed out after getting caught in the rain.
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  #3  
Old 09-10-2024, 03:53 PM
EB EB is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: This is a no biking trail, California
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I know you swapped in the road wheel, but just to be sure - was the thru axle tightened to spec torque? This is the number one source of mystery hub creaks in my experience.
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  #4  
Old 09-10-2024, 03:55 PM
sheepdog84 sheepdog84 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 254
I've had the same, or very similar issue before with these hubs, and it took me a while to troubleshoot. I assume that your shifting with the CK wheel isn't great due to this as well.

In my case, the CK Axle length I was using was an incorrect spacing for my frame, causing me to over tighten the thru axle and therefore placing too much load on the rear hub assembly. It was too short by just a few mm, so it was hard to notice by the naked eye, or comparing it to another wheel. Replacing it with a more appropriate length solved the issue, for me.

Generally speaking though, I think this happens if something is too loose or is binding within the rear hub freebody / axle / thru axle assembly. All those piece need to be in the 100% right place and within the tolerances in order to not have issues.

I know all that that sounds pretty generic, but I would try to validate the following:

(1) your wheel itself doesn't have any play left or right when mounted on the bike in the dropouts, with the thru axle tightened to the correct torque. If there is play, then double check the pre-load & axle length to make sure all is good there. For example if the axle is too short, then you're having to excessively tighten the thru-axle in order for the wheel to site properly.

And (2) that your free hub ring splines are greased plenty and not dried out. CK makes a special grease for this. This might not be necessary, but I found mine to be quite old and servicing them with grease helped engagement and smoothness of the freehub body.
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  #5  
Old 09-10-2024, 05:21 PM
TronnyJenkins TronnyJenkins is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Denver
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Thanks for the suggestions so far.
I compared the old axle vs the new kit when I installed and it seemed spot on when set side by side. Minus the XDR portion of course.

My thru axles on my Diverge are actually a QR style handle so I just do a pretty firm clamp. I can try to dial in whatever the exact torque is and I’ll also check the axle length.
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