OT--Help for the mechanically ignorant--cordless drills

sfscott · #1 12-12-2018, 06:16 PM

I was taking apart an AV rack to remove gear, and one screw was over-torqued by the person who assembled it, so the Philips head on the screw quickly striped out with a turn of a screw driver.

At the suggestion of the guy at the hardware store, I bought a kit that had a drill bit and a reverse thread bit. Idea was to drill into the screw head, then but reverse bit on and use the left-twist direction of the drill to pull out the screw.

I don't do much in the way of home repair and am not good at it, so I only have a 9-volt Dewalt cordless drill. Tried using that to drill the hole, and the drill couldn't even turn the bit on the screw head. Played with different torque settings but same result. Yes, battery is fully charged. Also tried a chisel and a hammer to try to pry a little bit of the screw out. No dice.

Thinking I need to buy/rent a more powerful drill to try to create the hole and be able to use the extraction bit. Is this the right approach? If so, how powerful a drill should I be looking for. Is there a better method to extract the screw? I have to get it out to remove a piece of equipment.

Ken Robb · #2 12-12-2018, 06:35 PM

You might be able to drill a "pilot" hole with a much smaller drill bit that your drill can turn. Once you have that small hole try the bigger bit that is the correct size for your E.Z. Out (remover). If your puny drill still can't turn the bit that you need to use your remover you may have to drill another intermediate hole and try again. Surely a friend or neighbor must have a real drill you can borrow for 1/2 an hour.

seanile · #3 12-12-2018, 06:37 PM

if you can use the jaws of the drill to grip the head of the screw, that may be a good option to try..

sitzmark · #4 12-12-2018, 06:42 PM

Are you running the drill in reverse with extractor bit? If not it will not "bite" into the stripped screw head and start the cutting/drilling process.

If the bit is locking into the rough surface of the screw head and drill doesn't seem to have enough torque to spin, relieve some of the pressure and let the bit spin to knock off some of the high spots before bearing down. If drill still doesn't have enough torque to drive the bit, look for a torque adjustment ring on the drill itself and adjust it for maximum torque. Higher-end drills have this limiter to prevent stripping screw heads.

Good luck!

Follow-up. Missed that you checked torque adjustment on drill. Alternative is to use a dremel tool if you have one to cut/grind head off of the bolt.

sfscott · #5 12-12-2018, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken Robb

You might be able to drill a "pilot" hole with a much smaller drill bit that your drill can turn. Once you have that small hole try the bigger bit that is the correct size for your E.Z. Out (remover). If your puny drill still can't turn the bit that you need to use your remover you may have to drill another intermediate hole and try again. Surely a friend or neighbor must have a real drill you can borrow for 1/2 an hour.

Could be....just want to know what I am asking for. Also, not a bad idea to have a real drill. Suggestions on power I need?

I don't think Dremel is an option. Can't get close enough with cutter to take head off and then would not be able to pound out the screw.

vqdriver · #6 12-12-2018, 08:02 PM

you're on the right track, you just need a good drill.
i'd borrow one from a neighbor or friend, it doesn't have to be all super contractor grade, just reasonably strong enough to not bind.
if you're going to buy one anyway to have for future use (good idea) most new drills will work just fine. we've been happy with the 18v makitas tho others will work. stick with li-ion batteries

fwiw, i've used extractor bits with a milwaukee 12v fuel mini drill.

the one company i'd avoid is dewalt. we used them for over a decade until they went li-ion and then their battery standards kept changing.

sitzmark · #7 12-12-2018, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfscott

I don't think Dremel is an option. Can't get close enough with cutter to take head off and then would not be able to pound out the screw.

Typical AV/Media rack mount with rack nuts/bolts? Once head is off the equipment will pull out and rest of bolt will pop out with the rack nut.

Surprised a 9v drill won't even turn the bit, but if it doesn't it doesn't. I keep an AC drill as a back up to batt drills just in case. With Dremel, don't cut from side - chunk bolt head by cutting a cross in the bolt head and chip the 4 pieces off.

Birddog · #8 12-12-2018, 09:12 PM

Never pass up the opportunity to buy new tools. An 18 or 20 volt drill/driver should do nicely. I'm a Bosch fan but any top line brand will do.

Peter P. · #9 12-12-2018, 09:51 PM

As has been suggested, if you need the drill just for this job, then be a Herb to your neighbor's Dagwood and just borrow one, cordless or corded.

If you truly want one now that you need some power, check Consumer Reports for their ratings. I just did that; they rated a slew of cordless drills. I bought a DeWalt 20V drill based on the CR ratings.

Your 9V drill should have done the job, though. I have a 1994, 9V Makita and it drills holes fine; the key is a sharp bit.

And as has already been suggested, it sounds like you picked up an E-Z Out kit. Those bits are designed to operate with the drill in reverse.

Drilling a small pilot hole to start is a good idea.

Louis · #10 12-12-2018, 10:19 PM

More on extractors:

https://www.thespruce.com/your-guide...actors-1821052

Steve in SLO · #11 12-13-2018, 06:04 AM

You could always cut a groove across the existing Phillips head and use a straight blade screwdriver to turn it out. A Dremel, or even a file works well.

Veloo · #12 12-13-2018, 06:26 AM

I haven't tried myself but this elastic band hack has gone around the web.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=819nd6fPXqk

Mustangski · #13 12-13-2018, 06:31 AM

I've seen many an engine ruined by the mechanic failing to using a center punch before drilling. Center punch what's left of the bolt, drill a small pilot hole and ensure you are holding the drill straight, drill larger hole to fit extractor. You don't have to drill that deep, especially if it's a smaller screw.

dookie · #14 12-13-2018, 07:47 AM

Why get complicated? A standard rack screw usually has a big enough head that you can get vice grips on it. I've removed several that way.

oldpotatoe · #15 12-13-2018, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfscott

I was taking apart an AV rack to remove gear, and one screw was over-torqued by the person who assembled it, so the Philips head on the screw quickly striped out with a turn of a screw driver.

At the suggestion of the guy at the hardware store, I bought a kit that had a drill bit and a reverse thread bit. Idea was to drill into the screw head, then but reverse bit on and use the left-twist direction of the drill to pull out the screw.

I don't do much in the way of home repair and am not good at it, so I only have a 9-volt Dewalt cordless drill. Tried using that to drill the hole, and the drill couldn't even turn the bit on the screw head. Played with different torque settings but same result. Yes, battery is fully charged. Also tried a chisel and a hammer to try to pry a little bit of the screw out. No dice.

Thinking I need to buy/rent a more powerful drill to try to create the hole and be able to use the extraction bit. Is this the right approach? If so, how powerful a drill should I be looking for. Is there a better method to extract the screw? I have to get it out to remove a piece of equipment.

Buy a good corded, adjustable drill and extension cord..