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  #16  
Old 11-18-2021, 02:41 PM
El Chaba El Chaba is offline
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On a number of threads regarding handlebar bags, I have made the observation that you could design an entire bicycle around one. I think it was generally ignored, but this is exactly the sort of puzzle to which I was referring.
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  #17  
Old 11-18-2021, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by El Chaba View Post
On a number of threads regarding handlebar bags, I have made the observation that you could design an entire bicycle around one. I think it was generally ignored, but this is exactly the sort of puzzle to which I was referring.
Absolutely.
Once upon a time I had a Weigle rando bike, and the rack&fender fitment was flawless, mainly because the entire bike was crafted as a cohesive purposeful unit.
Admittedly today's frame, rack and fender that all came about separately will not fit together quite as perfectly. That's OK. Though I agree with you that it's pretty slick when the whole thing is conceived and built as one.
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  #18  
Old 11-18-2021, 03:36 PM
unterhausen unterhausen is offline
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Sorry if this is a stupid question or if it was already answered, but is the fender where you want it with respect to the tire?

Can we see a picture of the whole thing (front end of bike, wheel with tire, fender, rack)?
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  #19  
Old 11-18-2021, 03:38 PM
jtakeda jtakeda is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
Sorry if this is a stupid question or if it was already answered, but is the fender where you want it with respect to the tire?

Can we see a picture of the whole thing (front end of bike, wheel with tire, fender, rack)?
I was gonna say the same thing. Can we see a photo with a wheel
and tire installed?
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  #20  
Old 11-18-2021, 04:23 PM
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charliedid charliedid is offline
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Originally Posted by spoonrobot View Post
More stable at the rack connection point, but also would be more stable at the fork crown, if not already attached there. A bracket is always going to have more flex both up/down and side/side v. a bolted connection with spacer. Enough to make a difference on bumps and especially on gravel.
I don't really disagree but I've had a million bikes with fenders over the years....none that installed with a daruma except one so always used a bracket. One had a bracket and rack attachment point and it never budged.

Last edited by charliedid; 11-19-2021 at 07:38 AM.
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  #21  
Old 11-19-2021, 06:52 AM
marciero marciero is offline
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The struts attach via eyebolts so there is plenty of room for lowering the front, and trimming the struts if necessary. I would attach the rack to the crown without the struts and bend the rack forward and down to the height you need, then insert the struts, trim to length, and attach to fork, secure the eyebolts. This should be a simple matter.
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  #22  
Old 11-19-2021, 07:44 AM
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charliedid charliedid is offline
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Originally Posted by marciero View Post
The struts attach via eyebolts so there is plenty of room for lowering the front, and trimming the struts if necessary. I would attach the rack to the crown without the struts and bend the rack forward and down to the height you need, then insert the struts, trim to length, and attach to fork, secure the eyebolts. This should be a simple matter.
Probably right about that, it would be good to see the entire front wheel.
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  #23  
Old 11-19-2021, 08:21 AM
unterhausen unterhausen is offline
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The problem with trying to recreate a constructeur bike with retail parts is mostly the rack. Nobody wants to sell a rack that is close enough to the tire. Either because they are worried about it hitting the tire or just because someone is going to have a bike where the rack is too low. And it seems like the racks that are adjustable enough have a poor safety record given the number of recalls. The problem with hitting the right height is what many builders don't want to sell racks. It's not easy, as I have demonstrated a couple of times.
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  #24  
Old 11-19-2021, 11:34 AM
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spoonrobot spoonrobot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marciero View Post
The struts attach via eyebolts so there is plenty of room for lowering the front, and trimming the struts if necessary. I would attach the rack to the crown without the struts and bend the rack forward and down to the height you need, then insert the struts, trim to length, and attach to fork, secure the eyebolts. This should be a simple matter.
Rack should be level or 1-2° upslope, so this most likely won't work.
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  #25  
Old 11-19-2021, 11:49 AM
marciero marciero is offline
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Originally Posted by spoonrobot View Post
Rack should be level or 1-2° upslope, so this most likely won't work.
Yes, keeping it level is the intent. Rack has to bend in two places but totally doable.
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  #26  
Old 11-20-2021, 01:52 PM
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sparky33 sparky33 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtakeda View Post
I was gonna say the same thing. Can we see a photo with a wheel
and tire installed?

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  #27  
Old 11-20-2021, 06:47 PM
jtakeda jtakeda is online now
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Originally Posted by sparky33 View Post
Thats a toughie. Its a much larger gap than the first picture made it look. I imagine if you shorten the adjustable struts the rack would be pointed downward but I wonder if a combination of shortening the struts, slightly bending the fork crown mount and a couple of leather washers could get you in a happy place
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  #28  
Old 11-20-2021, 07:21 PM
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charliedid charliedid is offline
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I'd forget the fender to rack attach all together, but move the struts up to the top braze-on. It is a long front fender so if you really need the support you could do the second set of front struts trick. I think the bending of the rack is too great but who knows.
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  #29  
Old 11-20-2021, 07:31 PM
merckx merckx is offline
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I would punt the rack, carry your load British style, and attach another strut to the front of the fender.
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  #30  
Old 11-20-2021, 07:51 PM
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charliedid charliedid is offline
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Originally Posted by merckx View Post
I would punt the rack, carry your load British style, and attach another strut to the front of the fender.
Leather satchel?
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