9100 shifter problem

madsciencenow · #1 07-03-2018, 08:43 PM

So the other day I get on my bike and it doesn’t want to shift. I messed around with it and couldn’t get anywhere so I grabbed a different bike and headed out. I went into my LBS for a look and he thought it was cable stuck in rear derailleur housing so he installed a new cable and housing. It now shifts but not smoothly. It has friction and feels like a POS rather than the smooth 9100 shifting that I have become accustomed too. I think I bought the shifters off of JensonUSA so I suppose the next step is to reach out to Jenson?

Is there anything obvious that I should try here? Anybody else had issues?

Thanks!

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Gummee · #2 07-03-2018, 08:47 PM

The new new shifters need the slick cables. I'd try some Elite Polished Jagwires or the green coated Shimano cables. I've had better success with the green coated cables, but the Jagwires work too. Elite is a bit better than the Pro polished

If, for some reason, you had the older brown coated cables on the bike, check for a build up of the brown coating inside the housing or where a cable could rub, One more thing that may help (did on the older shifters) is to run the long-nosed ferrule at the lever end of the shifter housing.

M

madsciencenow · #3 07-03-2018, 09:03 PM

Gummee,

Would I be getting a weird clicking and resistance in the middle of the shift with the wrong cable?

I should have mentioned it worked flawlessly and then after some really nasty humidity and heat (I sweat like a running water hose) it quit. I’m wondering if trying to shift broke something?

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jumphigher · #4 07-04-2018, 04:56 AM

I'm not an expert on brifters but.. how does the shifter shift with the cable disconnected from the derailleur? Does it shift smooth like normal, or still feel clunky? I'd determine this before throwing money at the problem by buying new (and likely) expensive cables.

madsciencenow · #5 07-04-2018, 05:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jumphigher

I'm not an expert on brifters but.. how does the shifter shift with the cable disconnected from the derailleur? Does it shift smooth like normal, or still feel clunky? I'd determine this before throwing money at the problem by buying new (and likely) expensive cables.

Good point! As I recall there was still a weird crunch in the shift w/o the cable when my LBS was working on it but I didn’t get to actuate it so I’m basing this on what I saw/he said while he was servicing it.

So if it’s not the cable what else could it be?

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madsciencenow · #6 07-04-2018, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jumphigher

I'm not an expert on brifters but.. how does the shifter shift with the cable disconnected from the derailleur? Does it shift smooth like normal, or still feel clunky? I'd determine this before throwing money at the problem by buying new (and likely) expensive cables.

Good point! As I recall there was still a weird crunch in the shift w/o the cable when my LBS was working on it but I didn’t get to actuate it so I’m basing this on what I saw/he said while he was servicing it.

So if it’s not the cable what else could it be?

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madsciencenow · #7 07-04-2018, 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jumphigher

I'm not an expert on brifters but.. how does the shifter shift with the cable disconnected from the derailleur? Does it shift smooth like normal, or still feel clunky? I'd determine this before throwing money at the problem by buying new (and likely) expensive cables.

Good point! As I recall there was still a weird crunch in the shift w/o the cable when my LBS was working on it but I didn’t get to actuate it so I’m basing this on what I saw/he said while he was servicing it.

So if it’s not the cable what else could it be?

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oldpotatoe · #8 07-04-2018, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madsciencenow

Good point! As I recall there was still a weird crunch in the shift w/o the cable when my LBS was working on it but I didn’t get to actuate it so I’m basing this on what I saw/he said while he was servicing it.

So if it’s not the cable what else could it be?

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Might try flushing with WD-40 then a thin spray lube but it 'sounds' like something is amiss inside, try w/o the cable installed, or-Jenson for warranty..

madsciencenow · #9 07-04-2018, 07:14 AM

Any tips for Jenson and warranty and or shimano warranty? I'm hoping this isn't a complete PITA where I can't ride this bike for months while I haggle with the aforementioned parties.

oldpotatoe · #10 07-04-2018, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madsciencenow

Any tips for Jenson and warranty and or shimano warranty? I'm hoping this isn't a complete PITA where I can't ride this bike for months while I haggle with the aforementioned parties.

I'd call Jenson first, see what they say....I'm guessing a LBS call to shimano USA will get you a warranty also..

madsciencenow · #11 07-04-2018, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madsciencenow

Any tips for Jenson and warranty and or shimano warranty? I'm hoping this isn't a complete PITA where I can't ride this bike for months while I haggle with the aforementioned parties.

turns out I purchased from competitive cyclist. They are typically pretty helpful so I think I'll reach out directly to them.

oldpotatoe · #12 07-04-2018, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madsciencenow

turns out I purchased from competitive cyclist. They are typically pretty helpful so I think I'll reach out directly to them.

Buying from a US reseller helps a lot...lots of gray/black market, from across the pond, stuff out there..even shimano.

dddd · #13 07-04-2018, 10:24 AM

I would be testing the shifter with just the wire, maintaining moderate tension as I clicked through the range in both directions.

I think that this would give me the best tactile feedback as to how the shifter mechanism was working. Any sort of crunching with just a cable wire would strongly suggest an internal problem with the shifter.

Assuming that no cable has ever frayed in your shifter, there should be no metal shards to be looking for, no broken-off head.

Gummee · #14 07-04-2018, 04:41 PM

I'd start with Old Potato's recommendation of a flush followed by another test without a new cable and no housing.

THEN if it's still hosed, well.... Shimano doesn't like hearing things about D/A going wrong.

M

jumphigher · #15 07-04-2018, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gummee

I'd start with Old Potato's recommendation of a flush followed by another test without a new cable and no housing.

THEN if it's still hosed, well.... Shimano doesn't like hearing things about D/A going wrong.

M

Good luck. Definitely update the thread and let us know how it turns out.