Quarantine project question- Cinelli 64/66 with 11 speed Shimano levers?

[zennmotion]

So my question is in the title- I'm looking to build up a nice late 80s Giordana (Polaris build from SLX) with a Shimano 5800 groupset -don't hate me, the stuff works as well as anything else and I already own it, and don't tell me you've never eaten tempura and calimari in the same day (or at least thought about it ) I want an awesome riding, old-school skinny tube frame (and by the numbers the Giordana should fit me well) with the flawless 11 speed Shimano shifting that I have on a couple of other bikes, and an old-school tubular set of wheels, looking to build up a set of 32h 5800 hubs with NOS Ambrosio Montreal box rims- hoping they hold up to the greater drive-side tension on 11sp rear hub (considering having them professionally built for this reason, maybe Old Spud might be willing or I have a former Team 7-11 mechanic in my neighborhood)

So here's my question- I'm looking at handlebar/stems that I already own and have worked well for me on different, pre-brifter era bikes. Does anybody have any insights on mounting 11speed Shimano shifters to older Cinelli (mod 64 or 66- I have both) handlebars? Do they play nice, ergonomically? I don't like them sticking up very high or mounted too low. I realize I can't get a perfectly flat transition to the hoods, but do I really need to consider a modern bar (like Soma Hwy 1 or one of the newer model Nitto bars?). The older Cinelli's also have a somewhat longer reach than most modern bars, so would I plan for a stem that's about 1cm shorter than I usually use?

[ultraman6970]

Even with the campagnolo 10 brifters, you get weird fit in those handlebars but cant tell too much about shimano because I do not own shimano at all, well yes... came in a bike, got it off and is in a box. That being said, if your stem is 26 you have 26 compact handlebars moving around, ITM made a few back in the day. Soma highway is a compact handlebar that is 26 mm aswell.

U have to test.

[jtbadge]

I used 6800 and 5800 levers on Deda 215 Shallows for a few years, a similar shape to the 64.

Worked pretty well! Definitely a bit of a 'v' shape to rest the hands in between the bar and lever. Great reach to the lever from down in the hooks.

[colker]

Had deda shallow w/ campagnolo, first 10sp then 11sp shape. Good fit. I don´t get what is wrong about it.

[Gummee]

I'm facing the same decision with the new-to-me Giordana TSX I picked up here.

Build it with Ultegra 8000 or build it with D/A 6sp stuff and ride it while I look for either Sachs New Success or Superbe Pro.

I don't think the old Castelli bars are going to work right w the new shifters, but try it and see


M

[zennmotion]

Originally Posted by ultraman6970

Even with the campagnolo 10 brifters, you get weird fit in those handlebars but cant tell too much about shimano because I do not own shimano at all, well yes... came in a bike, got it off and is in a box. That being said, if your stem is 26 you have 26 compact handlebars moving around, ITM made a few back in the day. Soma highway is a compact handlebar that is 26 mm aswell.

U have to test.

I have Cinelli 1a stems in 10,11 and 12 cm reaches- all 26.4mm diameters and I also have Cinelli mod 64 and mod 66 handlebars, also 26.4mm

I also have an uglier (IMHO) 3ttt Status quill in 26.0/12cm reach and a newer Cinelli "top mod 66 " that's got a matching bluish-gray anodizing to the stem and is also 26.0. I think Cinelli thought they were big enough to set their own 26.4 standard for a few years. They were wrong.

The mod 66 bar drops are a little deep for my ageing level of flexibility, but would work OK if I raised the stem a cm or so more than I would for the shallower mod 64 bars.

How similar are the Deda 215s and old Cinellis?

Yeah, I gotta test but I was hoping for some crowd sourced opinions before I start digging into my parts boxes (just moved and my garage is chaos- all the parts I stupidly moved are either getting attached to frames or sold cheap or given to the co-op- stay tuned)

[osbk67]

Memory fades, but from memory Ambrosio Montreal rims were pretty soft. The cost of spokes and labour for a rebuild could be greater than the difference between Montreals and a much more durable rim...

[zennmotion]

Originally Posted by Gummee

I'm facing the same decision with the new-to-me Giordana TSX I picked up here.

Build it with Ultegra 8000 or build it with D/A 6sp stuff and ride it while I look for either Sachs New Success or Superbe Pro.

I don't think the old Castelli bars are going to work right w the new shifters, but try it and see


M

I have another frame (Marinoni Special) that I built up with my old D/A six speed racing group for Eroica (that I have missed 3 years in a row now, still waiting). But then I've cheated with my old man fitness and replaced the crank with a Sugino compact, 14-28 freewheel and now considering switching out the D/A rear derailleur with a long-cage Suntour Cyclone.
So I can actually ride the thing on Bay Area (and Eroica Cali) hills without dying of fatigue or abject shame from walking in Toe Clip Slippers, doncha know...

As you can imagine, I don't ride it much in its current state with several other choices. The Giordana is going to be an everyday ride without gearing compromises, I'd like the best of old and new, great frame and group with modern functionality. Hopefully buying very little, if anything, that's not already collecting dust in the garage.

[zennmotion]

Originally Posted by osbk67

Memory fades, but from memory Ambrosio Montreal rims were pretty soft. The cost of spokes and labour for a rebuild could be greater than the difference between Montreals and a much more durable rim...

Yeah, this is my concern as well. I have stupid nostalgia for the rims (raced back in the day and I attended University in the city soon after the Olympics)- plus, I have a NOS set I've had for decades, useless for anyone else, either for sale or a co-op donation, they're obsolete. I've built wheels, but these might be finicky with modern spoke tensions on the rear, I don't want to have to constantly true them every time I encounter a rough road.

[rccardr]

I would go with a set of shallow bars unless you want the STI's mounted too high. They just look/work better on modern bar shapes.

[mtechnica]

I’ve used the 64 and the 66 and they’re both satisfactory to me with modern shaped levers. The 66 are really deep drops though. I like them but they could be a lot by modern standards.

[ultraman6970]

Unless you do your own stuff.

Originally Posted by osbk67

Memory fades, but from memory Ambrosio Montreal rims were pretty soft. The cost of spokes and labour for a rebuild could be greater than the difference between Montreals and a much more durable rim...

[ultraman6970]

Hey zenn.... those montreal rims are which color? second... tubulars?? (dont remember ever seen clinchers of those)...36 holes?

[Gummee]

Originally Posted by zennmotion

Yeah, this is my concern as well. I have stupid nostalgia for the rims (raced back in the day and I attended University in the city soon after the Olympics)- plus, I have a NOS set I've had for decades, useless for anyone else, either for sale or a co-op donation, they're obsolete. I've built wheels, but these might be finicky with modern spoke tensions on the rear, I don't want to have to constantly true them every time I encounter a rough road.

TB-14s

Old school look. New metals. I have a pair on my custom Spirit bike and like em lots

Likely to build another pair for the Spirit bikes disc braked replacement

M

[zennmotion]

Originally Posted by ultraman6970

Hey zenn.... those montreal rims are which color? second... tubulars?? (dont remember ever seen clinchers of those)...36 holes?

Not clinchers. Tubs, silver, 32 hole. I used to race on them on the Montreal velodrome boards. What I have are NOS, and they look pretty straight but sometimes you can't tell until you begin lacing them. I remember old Mavic GP4s that never seemed round and were a PITA to build (at least with my basic skillz)