#1
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'If' running tubes in TLRs, do you....
Change PSi VS running same TLR tubeless.
Change pressures between tube types VS one to the other. ie Tubilito, Aerothan, latex, butyl etc.. Context; mounted Pirelli P-Zeros 30mm yesterday. One Aerothan in front, rear Butyl. Deciding weather to try a latex, then Aerothan in the rear. Should use them after I wasted 90.00 on 3 I figure. Nick in Oregon City effected my thinking and in a moment of internet weakness, I bought 3. I like to try stuff to know for myself really the reason... FYI, I don't like running tubeless at higher pressures [road], so easy on me with the take tubes out and run tubeless please.
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This foot tastes terrible! Last edited by robt57; 10-02-2022 at 11:52 AM. |
#2
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I generally use the same pressures, but I don't weigh much. And honestly, I don't run tubeless on the road because there's no benefit for me. So my answer is not very useful.
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#3
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From trial and error, I know what pressure I like for my road tires and I stick with that for both latex and butyl inner tubes. Off road or mixed surface pressure of course varies a lot depending on the conditions.
I do think the latex tubes improve the ride feel. I’ve had great luck with Vittoria latex tubes in the 25-28mm size for my road bikes. But for my cross and gravel bikes, I’ve had a bunch of the larger Vittoria latex tubes in 33 to 38mm tires fail at the valve stem. Some failed after a few months, others failed out of the box pumping up for the first time. But always at the valve stem. |
#4
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Try the pressure calculator at zipp.com. It includes tubed applications.
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#5
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I run higher pressure running tubes due to snakebite and pinch flats. With the lower pressures there is a higher chance of flats in my experance
Last edited by skiezo; 10-02-2022 at 06:56 PM. |
#6
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Theoretically speaking -
Tires support wheel loads by changes in casing tension, and the static casing tension is the product of the internal cross-sectional area times the pneumatic pressure. Because the inner tube thickness reduces the internal cross-sectional area a little bit, for the same performance you'd want to use a little more pressure when using tubes. But this is a difference of only a few psi. Depending on your road surfaces, you might want to add a little pressure anyway to reduce pinch flatting, and this might be a bigger consideration. |
#7
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I just tried the Zipp calculator, and for my input values, it gave recommended pressures 1.3F/1.5R psi higher for tubes vs. tubeless (70.8F/75.4R psi vs. 69.5F/73.9R psi). The possible technical reasons for this are discussed above, but as a practical matter, this is below the accuracy limits of most tire pressure gauges.
Last edited by Mark McM; 10-02-2022 at 04:01 PM. |
#8
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I was running 25mm tubed tires on 17mm IW rims with what I thought was 80 psi when I suffered a pinch flat from running over a rock. It turns out that my old gauge was off and I only had 72 psi. The zipp calculator recommends 77/82.
I much prefer tubeless with wider rims and larger tires. 28mm tires on 19mm IW Hooked rims require 62/66 and 30mm tires on 23mm IW rims need 50/53. Next is 25mm IW rims with 28/30mm tires and with 50/50 psi. Give or take 1-2 psi. Last edited by Dave; 10-02-2022 at 05:36 PM. |
#9
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Ooppps, wrong forum...
W. |
#10
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William is that a photo you took?
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#11
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This foot tastes terrible! Last edited by robt57; 10-02-2022 at 09:15 PM. |
#12
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No, but it is my desk top background image. Lot's cool tube photography here...
https://robrobinette.com/Glowing_Tube_Photography.htm Click on the photos to get full images. W. |
#13
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Too many tubes for a Champ!But a very cool pic.
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"There is no perfectionism on the road to contentment." |
#14
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IME, I only have the tubeless tires due to cost and/or availability, have never actually gone tubeless. IME, the tubeless tires need about 5 psi more when using tubes. That is with both butyl and latex, and simply by feel.
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#15
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SRAM actually has a calculator for pressures. I find it useful for a starting point.
https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure |
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