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#16
10-18-2018, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
 As for turning the dial wrenches back to zero, my understanding is that it takes the pressure off the spring and keeps it calibrated longer. No idea if it is actually true, but what I've read.. From https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp...-wrench-myths/ The Wrench Should Always Be “Unloaded” Before Storage If you’re using a mechanical click-type wrench, this one turns out to be absolutely true. A click-type torque wrench presses a ball into a detent that’s held in place by a spring. The wrench is normally adjusted by twisting the handle on the wrench. Twisting it in compresses the spring and requires more torque to pop the ball out of the detent. This is how it measures torque. But if the spring is stored with the wrench “loaded” or set for a high torque rating, the pressure on the spring can cause it to weaken over time. To protect the wrench it should always be returned to the lowest setting before storing it back into your toolbox. For big wrenches (measuring in ft-lbs increments) the lowest setting is usually 20 ft-lbs. If, for some reason, you have a click-type torque wrench that goes all the way down to zero, leave the wrench set to 10 or 20 pounds. You always want to keep a minimum amount of pressure on the spring so that the ball can’t fall all the way out of the detent. For other styles of torque wrenches, this isn’t an issue. The newest digital torque wrenches use an electronic strain gauge to measure torque, so when the wrench is not in use the only thing you may need to do is remove the batteries so that there is no chance of corrosion ruining your expensive digital wrench. Last edited by oldguy00; 10-18-2018 at 07:23 AM. 
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#17
10-18-2018, 08:56 AM
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CDI torque tool - adjustable and interchangeable bits
Very happy with this CDI torque driver. Comes with certification and package includes high quality bits plus two long shafted bits (5mm and T25). The long shafted T25 driver has been great for attaching Campy ergopower levers to handlebars without struggling with the hoods.
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#20
10-18-2018, 09:05 AM
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I have had the original set for over 10 years. It’s a great piece of equipment and well worth the money. Last edited by djg21; 10-18-2018 at 09:12 AM.
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#21
10-18-2018, 09:09 AM
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I use a 1/2" drive Craftsman beam type frrom the 70's for the big stuff, but never a torque wrench for the small stuff. Never had anything come loose and never broke anything in 35 years of wrenching on bikes.
The only thing that required a torque wrench on my new Colnago was the cassette lockring and the crank bolt. Last edited by Dave; 10-18-2018 at 05:33 PM.
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#22
10-18-2018, 02:04 PM
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Combining some replies here (there is no "all-in-one" torque wrench that I know about) I use:
SMALL): CDI Torq Tool 2-8 for smaller settings. It is like everyone has said already: well-made, reliable, very easy ti use. I have had it years and it is still very good. LARGE): Craftsman clicking (not beam) wrench for larger settings. A car mechanic friend gave this to me and it is still great after more than 30 years. (But I am not using a torque wrench, and especially not a large one to ~40Nm, every day.) It is very solid. I like these two. They are excellent. Maybe if I owned a bicycle shop the EM Giustaforzas would be nice, to look at at least, but still they only go from 1-8, 2-16, or 10-60, so even there one wrench does not cover everything, and they are very expensive, too luxurious for me.
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#24
10-19-2018, 10:35 AM
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#25
10-19-2018, 12:03 PM
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The Feedback wrench looks interesting. My LBS carries the CDI. Cheaper there than at Amazon.
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Linear Mode
